David Dobedoe

I have just removed a tree for a customer who's phone line ran through it, his phone had stopped working and BT would not repair it until the tree was removed. Managed the whole job leaving the wire in place but found sections where the insulation had worn through rubbing against the tree. Prior to doing the job I called BT after the usual battle with robots and Asian call centres that are unable to communicate effectively (BT a communications company and all that) I managed to get a very helpful lady that books the engineers in and out. Had we chosen to remove the line first I was told we would have to request to have it checked first, for this we would be charged £125 ish pounds and would have to wait about 21 days. After this engineers would be arranged to come out and take the line down. Again charged at about £150 and with a wait and then after the job a similar charge to put a new one back up again. She suggested that we would be far better off just doing the work and should we accidentally knock it out just pay to have it put up again which has to happen anyway.

I would give Danny Frost a ring. Furniture & timber products made in Cumbria - Danny Frost bespoke furniture and timber He sometimes has problems with trees from hedge rows that are full of all sorts of metal rubbish.

We were looking at a tree removal job yesterday. Buildings and other things underneath that must be protected/looked after. Included is a large static gas cylinder, the type gas is delivered to with a lorry. Obviously don't want to damage it and care need to make sure we don't drop anything on it. What other precautions are required / sensible. Does it need to be empty, moved or is it reasonible to work above it full? Thoughts please. Thanks in advance. David

Where in west Cumbria Mike... Obviously effects viability and delivery costs. I have a fair pile of wood some seasoned and some just cut in south Cumbria

That little first aid kit you carry on your tool belt or harness is really really useful when you need it! Last Wednesday one of my mates at work managed to hit himself in the face with a chainsaw brake handle hard enough to break it and do considerable damage to his forehead. Really pleased that I was able to just pull out a “large wound” dressing and slap it on. At the time there was enough blood about to think it was the chain that had done the damage. It was a proper mess and he needed looking after quickly. I try and remember to always carry mine. Not everybody does. Fortunately the good nurses and doctors of the NHS have sorted him out and he was well enough to be back at work cutting on the Friday (despite doing a good impression of the Franckinstein monster)

I have some sheath damage on the "main rope of my multi saver". One 'thread' of sheath broken. How tatty do people reasonably allow these to get before LOLER failure / the dustbin? Think its probably time to replace or repair! The rings etc are still in good order. What would be the best way to replace the rope? I presume options would include: Have a new piece of rope sewn in replacing old. Neat and low clutter. (where could I get that done at sensible price?) Knot on a replacement rope. Not as neat and probably cheaper, possible to easily repair whenever needed. (what rope would be most appropriate and where can I get a couple of meters to do the job?) Just buy a new one, quite expensive for what they are and this one has not really lasted that well. (Possibly just unfortunate?) Buy a cheaper and hopefully tougher friction saver and loose the advantages of the adjustability. Other options? Thanks David

Mine is also a fickle b@57@rd to start! Sometimes no problems... Other times a right pain.. Even pass it round the team to see who else can or can't start it!!! Pretty sure its a fuel issue and the bulb is part of the equation!!!! Don't just keep pulling it will damage your arm!!!

Contact Lyon Equipment.... In my experience they are very helpful.

We have a very hard worked 254 at work. The fact its still used as much as it is says a lot. Possibly bombproof?

I have mine on a 13 inch bar. It's a great little saw and works really well on 13 and 15 inch bars.

A lovely lady that I know confessed to me that last summer some tree surgeons were working opposite her house and that there was a lovely young man up a tree. She rang round her friends and organised a coffee morning for the ladies to watch him. A sort of Diet coke moment! Made me laugh.

Had a customer complain this week. Apparently my 550 xpg was interfering with his telly and and he asked us to have a break whilst he had his lunch and watched neighbours! Ha Ha, no problem But, anybody else have their saws interfering with the telly? D

Thanks, as I expected a mixed bag. Interesting the different perspectives. I think it is a ethical issue when working for somebody you treat their customers as their customers. ( as long as you are treated fairly which is also an ethical issue) I have been self employed and sub contracting long enough to have seen this issue play itself out problematically in other industries. The responses on here are similar. At one extreme some people enjoying the cooperation and partnerships and at the other some people not wanting it obvious to their clients. I will get magnetic sheets which allow me to be flexible. For regular customers that I work for as a sub contractor I will offer to have their magnetic sheets on the van when I'm working for them. No problem with that.

At the moment I work both as a sub contractor as well as doing independent work. I have just bought a new van and am think about putting graphics on it to promote my services. At the same time I recognise that to some extent my services compete with that of my clients. If I put graphics on the van it will inevitably be advertising my work on my clients sites. I fully understand the potential conflicts in this situation. In this industry to what extent would this be acceptable or otherwise. It maybe that I go for magnetic strips which would be on and off when as i want them. I can see a considerable advantage in this to help prevent advertising a parked and abandoned van full of saws in the middle of nowhere. Your thoughts please Ladies and gentleman? Thanks D

It's not a triple action krab. But it does seem to have a high(er) level of security than plain gates and possibly screw gates. May well have some applications I would have thought. Better or worse than triple action? Who knows?

Sorry no link but. New Krab from Grivel. Twin Gate. Very interesting. There is a Video on YouTube with Stevie Haston. Can't work out how to get a link with my phone perhaps somebody else can find it and post for others?

Thanks Marc. Its using / moving onto a Hitchclimber that got me thinking about options. D

I have recently done the climbing and rescue course so still very new to tree climbing. (I have however done a lot of caving and mountaineering so understand the technologies reasonably well) When climbing with Spikes, as well as using a wire cored flipline we were taught to also use the main climbing rope tied around the tree with a running bowline and then attaching our harness to that with a Prusik Loop with prusik knot for self protection/back up. ( If I remember rightly!) My question is when climbing with Spikes and flipline. What are the legitimate options for self protection and what do people favour? Thanks in advance David

I have a new plastic Husqvarna grease gun that came with a saw. There is a little rubber seal/washer rattling about inside it. I'm guessing this pump has not been assembled correctly. Can i take it apart and put it back together without breaking it? If so any hints? Or do I just ask the dealers to swap it? Thanks David

Can anybody tell me the difference in cost between running saws on 'normal/crude oil' based fuel etc. and the more environmentally friendly/bio alternatives. Thanks David

On a lighter not. Quite recently a farmer friend of mine in Cumbria that has a friend in the form of a big black and tan hound. My experience of this hound is to not get out of my car until he is supervised enough to prevent me being its lunch! The hound as hero of the moment cornered two of thieves in the farm outbuildings. My friend asked them to sit down and wait for the police or he would let the dog have (eat) them. On this occasion they chose to sit down and wait for the police! Pity really as this particular hound would probably have put them off repeating the offence. (or got himself shot in the process) Same hound caught a poachers dog that had caught a deer recently... on this occasion the (town) police just didn't understand the nature of rural crime. It was really difficult to convince them that to take the dog away was needed and that the poachers coming back for it would pose a risk to his family. Eventually they agreed but... Take care out there David

Many thanks so far everybody. I do have some training and experience in this area. The thread is developing my thinking and that's what I asked for. ( re plunging a big saw into it a seeing what happens it would seem is part of the solution. But only one part of the solution! ) I fully accept that this work is both dangerous and more technically demanding than many others. D

I am interested in developing my understanding of best practice/ the most effective ways of dealing with single trees that have windblown and hung up. What is currently being trained and expected on assessments? For these purposes I would like to ignore side to side issues. ( but recognise how important they are.) The three variations I would like to consider are: a) The tree has recently blown over, it is steep (65°ish) and is significantly supported by the tree it is leaning on. Perhaps the topside is in compression and the underside is in tension. b) The tree has recently blown over, it is steep (65°ish) and is mostly still supported by its root plate. Perhaps the topside is in tension and the underside is in compression. c) The tree has blown over a long time ago. It is steep (65°ish) The root plate has had a chance to 'recover/stabilise' in it's relatively new position. The tree has been supported by the tree it fell on and it is very difficult to assess the extent to which the tree is holding itself or supported by the other tree. Thoughts please, thanks in advance David

I guess the other way forward would be to ask them to do a 'real' job?

As I live in the Kendal area i have put a carefully worded wee note on Facebook to spread the word. One of the best weapons against these people is neighbourhood watch. Once the police are involved they should put the wheels in motion. If your clients are keen to do something it might be worth them giving Lakeland Radio a call!