Eddy_t

We who can port, snigger just as much at bottom end

A 660 magnum (dual ported muffler) has more power than a 661 Jon, so go figure

Ported, not hacked

If you're going to the APF Cornish, it'll be even cheaper to buy a saw off jonsie, and if not, you can order one online whilst you're there. For what use you will be doing, I'd get the 365, it's cheaper than the 560xp and can quite easily be modded into a 372xp

A ported saw of the same displacement will always out-cut a stock saw!

Exactly, much better saws, I prefer my 385 to either (I have used all 3). I personally find the 385/390 lighter, and simply swapping the carb for the 372xt carb is a great improvement

I have, I was disappointed with it on 28" and tbh .1kw power increase is poor for separating pro models

Then use a 390xp and 395xp. Bouth are within 10cc and pull a 32"

Same bar length, both stock. Post vids!

The old Stihl 031 (series 1113) beats any other 50cc on torque, still doesn't mean it's better in the woods

So why is everyone in the world logging championships using inboard clutch saws?

Port, yes, it's a saw that is restricted by the usual rules and regs. Remap, no, because the control unit tunes the saw to max rpm, and as a limited coil, that's as high as it will go

I have a 560, it's been pretty reliable so far, I just wish it had an inboard clutch, but that's why I got a 362xp

I prefer an inboard clutch, much easier to fit a bar and chain, change sprocket and work on. Don't spout anything about balance, they like to roll onto the side with outboard saws

I've used a fair few chippers, I just don't see what the fuss is about with big heavy chippers. <750kg chippers probably didn't exist pre '97, they didn't need to. Now we have chippers that produce more power and chip larger material than the chippers that weighed over a ton did 5-10 years ago, whilst using half the fuel, which now costs three times more. But I suppose you're asking if I've ever used a big chipper, no, haven't needed to, doubt I ever will either

I'm not sure what you're asking there Jon. Stubby has a ported 560, it doesn't rev any higher, other than under load

I've very rarely had the no-stress system kick in whilst bunging brash through, only when I've rammed as much as possible, but more likely is to either catch the stop bar, or by sheer volume causing a blockage in front of the feed rollers. As for the stress systems, this is to prevent the rpm dropping below idle and stalling the engine and causing a blockage. The first chipper I used was a big old 10" Jensen that had no anti-stress controls and if the rpm dropped too low it would block, then I'd be made to clear the blockage

You must be doing some monster trees to warrant chippers that big, or you're really lazy when it comes to brash! Far too many people don't dress timber properly nowadays, after having had a break from tree work for nearly 3 years, I was shocked to see so many cutters leaving stubs on timber. Some of this gets firewood-ed, some milled. Yes, a wider feed aperture is easier, but if you can't spare 3 seconds to nip a branch whilst you're removing it in the first place then you need to look at your method structure. Fwiw, bigger chippers don't work faster, flywheels all turn at a very steady rate, whilst big engines are sluggish. Could you imagine an 880 or 3120 belting out the 14-15k rpm of the small 40-60cc saws? In bigger engines it's all about torque and smashing through the waste, but they aren't really faster with brash

Extremely steep drives (surely doing domestic work you've come across that?). Working on damp fields with ruts or inclines. Working in places where you can't feasibly drive a vehicle, you're chipping to ground and if you leave it attached to a truck, it's going to be a couple hundred meter drag? Where the ground is soft. The more modern sub-750kg chippers have plenty of power, whilst the feed rollers are getting ever wider. What are you expecting to gain from a bigger chipper? Bigger feed? If you're chipping logs too large for a <750kg, you're wasting potential firewood, and people are more than willing to take wood away for you. Robust design? Yeah, it's made of thicker metal, but is that really going to make it that much stronger? You can save a lot of weight by trimming down machines in a way that doesn't affect the strength or rigidity, in fact, I'm sure an engineering solution could be done to the <750's that would make them even lighter and more rigid, but there is no need. The idea of 2" plate metal for a chipper body will last indefinitely longer than a couple of mm thick where the job doesn't include significant impact to distort metal.

Best saw for cutting 14" logs? A 365, 372xp or ms440 on 15/16" bars. That much power you can just push through the timber.

I got 13500 rpm on my tachometer, the 357xp was 14000, but the rpm is much more like the 362xp than the 357xp.

If you're talking about toro the horticulture machinery specialists (like mowers, sprayers and stuff), then the customer services are spot on, the only downfall is parts have to come from America. They come running to repair your machines apart from chippers, nobody should run then!

It all depends on the sprocket size Jon, 8t .325 is marginally slower than 7t 3/8, but is less stress, holding a higher rpm in the cut. You can easily work out the max chain speed with no load, but from there you need to tach it in the wood

It's a hard call, the larger chain will cut more, but the smaller chain has less drag. It also depends on the wood, in softer woods, the 325 will win, in oak and other hard woods, the 3/8 generally comes out on top. They're exactly the same saw Jon, same rpm limited to 13.5k rpm, same carb, same cylinder assy. So 20" would be the same on each saw.

You mean husky are loosing sales to a company owned by themselves? That's terrible, they must be loosing money!