Treemover

My in laws other half was trimming a pyracantha. After he developed a sore throat and lost his voice somewhat. He noticed a good amount of white mould (although I was wondering if it was pollen?) and was blaming that. I was blaming the fumes, as I often notice while hedging, the air flow is restricted compared to open saw work. More just a general query? Anyone suffer the same and get to the cause?? Cheers

from reading here I'm a little confused on this saw vs the Stihl 150. Without the Stihl bar and chain the echo is not on a par? So if the Stihl 150 is better considering they cost the same (looking on various websites) with €10-15 difference. Just wondering if spending the extra on bar, chain and sprocket still is the way to go?? But from what I understand, the echo has 10% more power than the Stihl; so the extra investment in bar and chain etc ; put it way ahead of the Stihl 150; possibly nipping at the 193? There's too much choice!! Is this echo 2510 an overlap to the battery saws; or has it got its place alongside one? Reason I ask is I'm keen on buying a battery saw; but this echo has caught my eye. I was going to opt for a Stihl 160 and 201.

This is both sides of the water. Was talking to a contractor that said his kit was paid for but sitting in his yard, no work for crews. 1st time in 30 years and he feels the machines will be parked for half a yr minimum now. All it will take is a pest to come in from abroad on a log; and that might curb imports. I had a stand being thinned a few weeks back, and seeing lovely straight small diameter stakewood going for pulp as there is no stake market is depressing. I remember in 1996 before I went to Newton rigg; working in forests and for a timber mill; and everyone in forestry was making money. Looking at our own 70 acres, all I can do is use as much of our own timber to reduce buying in; and sell adding value to it. Presently thats firewood!

I'd agree, I was using between 12-20 litres a day with the 395xp. When you consider fuel isn't cheap to begin with; adding 2 stroke, wear and tare all adds up. When you look at Aspen, it really makes the battery alternatives a consideration. I often wondered why we don't have more hydraulic saws. Especially for ground work, or one on the back of a chipper?

This is where battery alternatives hopefully become more mainstream. I have rebuilt my 357xp due to an air leak, and now my dealer says here in Ireland, our petrol is of poor quality and is causing problems with the auto tunes. Considering they now advise using an oil that is more expensive, I don't think I'll be buying an auto tune any time soon. It's not like running s saw is cheap on a daily basis. All those 50p's add up. I'd imagine there is good mark up on 2 stroke oil? Revisiting the 50p per day that's 2.50 per week, or €100 per year (say 200 days per year) above regular oil. I'd rather run older more reliable saws, than chase the dream of the new offerings.

Would you do a better rate to Eire!! We're fleeced with the exchange already.

Limitations? I'd agree with Ruskins; Time and money are both components that are hugely underestimated by clients or their advisers. I find that the limitation isn't so much physical, or the process of getting the tree in and out, but more obstacles along the route, especially if your moving a large tree down the main road. Is there a place for moving large mature trees? I would say def yes. I dont think it will become a very common practice, but placing a beautiful tree in a location where it can be noticed or moving it from a location where otherwise it would be compromised by construction to a place where the tree can continue to grow and be appreciated certainly has its place. I'm not totally sure about the story on the BBC blog, ie the entire details; but I would not be against the process itself, however I would not agree that a wealthy individual should be allowed to relocate trees from a public space to their own residence. I had a client once that had brought back a Giant Sequoia as a sapling in their washbag, while visiting the states some 40 years previous. They sold the property (got 8 million for it) and the client said the tree had huge sentimental value. They wanted to take it with them, only problem was they had not yet bought another property, so this was looking like a double move situation. In the end, I advised the client to just purchase a replacement tree, but I thought the tree in question had a fantastic story to tell, much how the explores brought back present specimens!

Just been reading most posts about top handled saws. I really am attracted to the pros of a battery saw, not sure which make to run with. But then people are really rating the stihl t150. Would I be mad, buying a battery saw and a s/h t200? I know people will say just buy a new t201, but having used (albeit a few hours) I wasnt exactly impressed by the husky 540 or t201. Like everyone, I seem to like the balance of the Stihls but not impressed by the t201; but that one was a 2015 machine. I wonder with advances in battery and electric motors will the performance we all want come from the next generation of battery saws??

ohh I have the axle on a 40-60 split so the theory is it allows the front wheels to climb easier with 40% of the weight. this setup has one flaw, it puts the pivot on a turn to the back wheels, which reduces the turning ability; but it does allow an easier turn. It pulls so easy, and the little kubota is a better match than a quad. I have a honda 350es. It was a labour of love, but the sense of reward is worth it once finished. My only fear is my welds failing; but I gave it two trial runs before painting; just to be sure. At worst, my welding is now a great deal better!

Thanks Vaspasian; I made a few errors that I dont mind disclosing. One my uprights are too wide, so the odd log does tend to rub the wheel. I just turn the log, but a small gusset should sort it. The upright is back in from the wheel, I use a flat board as a prop; but I never allowed for the curvature of logs!! Especially first thinings. I bought larger tyres, for more ground clearance and better flotation- ie 25-12-9 and I build most of it using heavy box as opposed to standard as most 'ready made'. My axles are well engineered as opposed to just a simple hanger setup. I didnt fancy the idea of a wheel hitting a stump and all that force on a piece of flat steel! My plan is to also put a flat deck and tipper on it over time. I thought two hours cutting and welding would do it! It took me two days!!!!!

Better pic

Decided to build my own trailer. Hugely underestimated the time involved! Still need to make a headstock, plus decide if drawbar is right at this length.

A new client of mine showed me two of his mature Horse chestnuts. Previously both trees have been braced (even though the unions look perfect, but then it was all the fashion 20 years ago?) and crown reduced. One tree is in a field with nothing within striking distance, but grand children play beneath it. The other tree is located adjacent to farm buildings. I advised the client that he had choices, 1) do nothing 2) prune back to just above previous cuts, but with an aim to get better shape also 3) Crown reduce soley to obtain better shape. I was reluctant to do anything as I feel creating new open wounds will only increase the trees chances of decline with leaf miner and bleeding canker? Am I wrong, are you guys hacking away; and would it be better for the tree to do something??

WHat is the Hp range for one of these? Would you need 30-40hp min; or could you get away with 25-30hp? I see some running such machines on ford 3000s

Yeah, I'd love a tracked machine that could power this, or a pto chipper or stump grinder as the needs arise!

They were cut during the summer, but some of the trees were dead. These were understory oak

It's pure rocket fuel in the stove. Have to close off the baffles!!! The real test will be branches; so far I'm just logging poles.

Took delivery of an urban tr75 with conveyor. Impressed with build quality. This is what I'm throwing into stove tonight.

I bought one a year ago. I like it, but I was disappointed to find that I had to adjust the slider when switching sides. I found that depending on the chain size or rather width, it wasnt cutting even. So I just bought a cheap plastic caliper and measure and adjust. To be fair it does get the chain as new. I dont agree that it takes off so much, as it all depends on how much you set the slider. I find it definitely takes less than my round file as my chains last longer. The carbide cutters aint cheap either I think €25 each; I'm on my second set. I like the fact that its not got a motor to worry about. It took a good while to get used to it; and I have to wear gloves sharpening as the filings used to get stuck in my finger. Not sure its worth the money. I like the sharpener that Rob sells, which is a lot cheaper. I lube my cutter with some chain oil when sharpening? Was told by the guy that sold it to me that it helps??

How do you find those pfanner boots? They look well built.

Ill be eating humble pie and flogging it by April!!

Mods please feel free to relocate! Hello comrades! I have been asked to brace a large Monterey cypress. The tree has been crown lifted to the sky, with 8 large surrounding stems, and two smaller; with one central column. The tree is quite tall, approx 25m; with all these limbs forking at 3-4 metres. There is heavy footfall beneath and a building adjacent; literally touching some of the limbs. Looking at the cobra bracing; how do you determine what ton system to use. I am just wondering if the 8 ton system is overkill on all the limbs? I am also toying with the concept of using two cables per limb to prevent the limbs striking the building. So how do you determine if your using an 2,4,8 ton system? I know there is a branch diameter, but is there any other rule?

Im not convinced the material is too small. I'm hoping to order one ( I have placed an order for an urban tr75 today but yet to hear back). My aim is to have smaller stuff for our own fire, as most of my logs need something smaller to go with it. I plan on selling this stuff by the trailer 10x3x6 or bulk bag (we have 70 acres of forestry at first thin and then tree surgery waste); but have as others say a crows nest; but where its feasible, Im hoping to segregate branches whereby I will end up with small kindling or small logs. Considering what we put through the chipper on lots of jobs, any recovery out of this will be a great bonus. Reducing what we have to haul away. Don't know if I can charge extra for it, I'll certainly try. I will certainly post pics of how I get on. Delivery wont be until mid feb.

I see both sides of this argument, especially as I always advise people to be conscious of path users and remove limbs branches that could cause and eye injury. I would advise this man to look at all council paths in his area, and if anybody else has encroachment issues or low limbs to keep a record. I know a state barrister that has a more offending hedge here in Ireland. Council wont write to him for obvious reasons. Its never a level playing pitch.

My landcruiser had a blocked egr valve. Dealer said he cleaned it but after I check he hadnt. Months later recall and replacement injectors, then after 6 months, back smokey and no power. Jeep had no ommh until 2000 revs. After dropping jeep into various garages, I was told needed all 4 injectors replacing, egr, and possibly a new engine. Decided nothing to loose, so cut a small piece of steel and placed it on the block before egr. Within minutes of starting up, smoke was less, and within a day, all the blue, black and white smoke diminished. Jeep is way better, mpg up, power etc. Im not a fan of the egr set up; and seeing the gunk which is like grease, assures me that the set up is far from ideal.