farmerjohn

as codlasher says get in touch with a structural engineer to design a roof structure if it is more complicated than a ridge to wall plate unsupported span of no more than what is specified for said timber size. i always work on a 6x2 spanning 3.3m unsupported with slate covering. (thats mainly all we fit) I would not bother buying C24 as at most merchants i know of they will stock both but C24 will be a lot more money. regarding getting your sawn timber passed off as structural it all depends on the building inspector. I always have sawn, or saw my own oak beams out and visually grade them (making sure there are not large flaws in the beam) I have never been asked to produce a grading certificate for the timber (i think graded hardwood at mills around here are at least twice the cost of just sawn timber.) you'll get the same bit, just with a certificate. it is a risk if you go down this route but i know my structural engineer and building inspector very well and i know to a certain extent what is a good structural piece of timber and what is not. just to make clear, I do not tell the building inspector i have sawn the timber myself he just looks at the plan, looks at the timber and is away again. (they used to come and measure timber dimensions to see if they matched drawings when i first started off but dont bother now)

might ahve a peice of apple and maybe ash (ash might be very cankered) will have a look tomorrow

As per title really, these elm's have been felled or dead standing at least 15 years, timber does not seem to soft. Are they worth the bother? if so, any ideas of a rough idea of cost? i have not got measurements yet. I would like to think at least the ones that are standing / off the floor would be ok if not hollow up the center

if you do have at attempt at saving i would not use expanding foam, it will blow him to bits, maybe try some sort of 2 part liquid resin at does not expand.

thats a real tidy job that. any photos during the making?

what sort of length and section oak and ceder do you have? (mainly interested in bigger stuff 3x3 inch and bigger) i'm a bit away but might be worth a run down if i can tie it in with something else Thanks, john

pictures so people can see the quality of the timber and dimensions of timber will help people to be able to give you an idea of costs (not every board just a few to give a fair representation of the timber)

that is some really nice yak!!!! out of interest how does the 066 handle a 42 inch bar? thanks. John

MMEEEE!!!!! I was just thinking myself, not done any milling for few weeks now and was thinking i was going to put a post on here just to say i have had an awesome day at the mill, by no means the production quantities of yourself J, it was steady away with the manual mill, and it was playing up a bit but i got some beautiful looking yew and cherry out of the day. I cant wait to have it dry and start using it.

awesome caggers what saw and what size bar are you running please?

after some more cost advice please. below are some photos attached of some oak, i am trying to gauge how much is a fair price to offer. there are 6 logs, the sizes are as follows: biggest log 3' across at bottom, 10' long (50 hoppus feet) but has big shake in the wide section of the butt, straight accross it and it is about 1/2" wide in the middle. the twisted grain log on top is 9' long 25" across bottom (20 hoppus feet) the long log 16'9" long 23" to 16" (27 hopus feet) the other descent section log on top of the longest is 7' long 24" damitar but has a double pith at one end. lastly there are 2 other logs one 12' long and 12" diamitar and one 9' long and 14 " diamitar. in total there are (providing my calculations are correct) 128 hoppus feet. Thanks, John

the blades are probably directional, so if you get a forward and reverse spindle it is not a problem. (the one i'm selling is ;-D ) that is possibly one more thing to look out for, forward and reverse was handy for me before i got the 4 sider when running T&G boards out i could run on side on, and from the opposite side run the stock back through with the other profile in reverse rotation, it saves moving the stock back to the other side of the spindle again.

getting off topic here sorry, so mutley, did u get the axminister spindle?

i'm maybe confusing things sorry, i was meaning when bought my panel saw, i look at a few options as i have cut my timber at mill through and through so the big pieces i was talking about were on the panel saw ripping the waney edge off with edging shoe on sliding table. I know what you mean, even with a outrigger and table to tennon on it prob would not hold, but no, not tennoning anything anywhere near that big ............ i hope!!! as it happens i have just been talking to felder about using my existing outrigger TABLE on the new spindle moulder so i only have to buy the outrigger arm and till swap the table between the 2 machines but they are telling me it can not be done, which i am dubious of as they both have the same extrusions on the outer edge of the x-roll table

to be honest, one of the reasons i am going for the F900z is i bought the panel saw second hand (not from them, a private dealer) and i have had problems with it, they have been VERY helpful, i'v spent hours on the phone to them, bought a new break board and it worked for a few days then stopped, think the transformer on breaking circuit was giving out too many volts which was not their fault and they are sending me another breadboard no charge, (i am buying a new transformer) cant complain at that. Though they got arsy with my sparky asking me if he was qualified as they said he didnt know the difference between AC and DC when it was them who was wrong!!!! in all i have been very impressed with how helpful they have been on a machine they have not sold to me, and its not that often you can say that about a company

Hi Woodworks how do you find the felder? what model is it? i am very seriously looking at a new F900Z in next few weeks. i have used one of their wide planer thicknessers and it was a real quality bit of kit. I also have felder a panel saw and it is very nice to use, i nearly bought a new Holzmann but i called the rep and asked him straight it the sliding table would handle 3 inch oak slabs a foot wide and 8 ft long and he just said not a chance, if ur doing something like that get a better quality second hand machine.

Another option is to come and use my workshop here buts it's a fair treck For ya. With the 4sider I'd have thought we'd run the whole lot out from rough sawn to finished in a day!!!! Offer's there mate

milled at 3 - 5 inch so should not move that much at that thickness, total ball ache with the size, there in a open barn drying, out of the sun so cant do any more that that!!!!

looks like a big job mate, photo is tiny though. i was thinking of £1700 but might bang it on ebay, i have a order of skirtings and archs i need to get made and dont need to sell for another 4 weeks yet, how soon are you wanting one. cant sell it with any tooling sorry. found this which is prob as cheap as u'll get new Wealden Tool Company Limited Cill Block or try apleby wood turnings, ask for jeremy u might want to factor this and other tooling in when working out how much to spend on the molder, tooling costs add up fast.

After wrestling with a 3ft diameter 10ft long log at my mates mill saturday and sunday i thought i'd put up a post to see if anyone has come up with any ingenious ideas to overcome the problem i faced. the problem is rotating the log to take slab wood from it to make it square... on a manual mill. We tried using large cant's and it would not budge it. tried rotating it with the 3pt linkage crane but roof too low to get it in. the hand wind rotater on the mill would not offer to move the log. i did think next time i get a log as big to see if my JCB micro would fit in and try and move it with that, but any suggestions what others do would be very welcome. thanks, John

Hi All, as requested here is a few photos of the monkey puzzle. I will try and get some more photos. the major problem we had was maneuvering the log when on the mill. There has been a lot of talk about hydraulic on a mill. I am a big believer after wrestling with it for 3 hours that the single most important hydraulic item on a mill is the log roller. so any ideas how something can be retro fitted? the mill is in a not very sturdy pole shed with tin roof with not a lot of head room!!!

out of interest, do you have a thicknesser? i know a few guys who make windows and they do not have a cill block, they have a jig on there thicknesser

i was hoping for about £2000 with the power feeder but looking into it it might be a little optimistic.

tilting spindles are in theory more useful, but when i looked at them i spoke to a few people and they all said they dont really use the tilting spindle. One thing to watch is i think a tilting spindle is safer if it tilts backwards away from the user so more of the blade is covered by the stock. Most of the cheaper tilting spindles tend to tilt towards the user.

I am selling my Mpower spindle moulder in a few weeks, Mpower 512MS Spindle Moulder | Call for Demo i run off a lot of architraves and skirting and bull nose window boards. Most of the work is done with power feeder as its usually few hundred metres at a time. It has 7.5hp motor and it is man enough but as with anything the more meat you are removing the slower you need to feed with smaller motor. to put in comparison the one you have highlighted has 1hp which is not much more than some routers. Regarding safety etc i THINK it is now illegal to have employees using a spindle without limiters. I buy euro blocks from a company called appleby wood trunings they are about £40 new i think, then you just buy pairs of cutters and limitas from as little as £15 ish for all 4 knives,