splinters

very nice. i like the idea of doing the front air vents black. you just need a st of Kumhos now and we can be twins.

im need ing help solving a reocurring problem. im struggling to get my td5 to start. when i turn the key the only thing that happens is a buzzing sound coming from the footwell / gearbox area. i think its the fule pump i can hear. there is no light on the dash for the yellow engin shape or the yellow coil. when i thurn the key right on the engin turns over normally but doesn't fire up. but if i leave it half an hour, an hour or 12 it fires up straight away. some times i have just been driving stopped to get out and do something and get back in and it wont go. like every one we have had slightly damp weather recently. it happened for a couple of days about a month ago when it had been wet for about a week but for the dry spell inbetween it has been fine. my guess is that something is getting damp and shorting out. possibly power to the glow plugs? but how do i check or does any one have any other ideas. thanks

yeah thought i had. Thread " Knocked out a few bits today" on page 2 of carving threads.

i was thinking along the same lines. i think they call them fairy doors. think i might have posted a pick of one i did on here some where.

Hi S.C. welcome if you can get a 192 then buy it. if not a 181 is good for hobby carving and a lower budget ora 201 for more heavy use. i use ronseal decking oil with wax in it to seal my carvings paint it on asps after carving to slow down drying.

hes a big fella

lets make this more simple. any one out there run basic carving courses? if so what qualifies you to do so.

so what is a basic instructors qualification ie the code

Any body know how i would go about gaining a chainsaw carving instructors qualification.

any body know how to go about gaining a carving instructors qualification.

you do if you want to be invited back again!! i always try to clear up as much as i can. i have two big cattle feed tubs that i load up with the smaller lumps of wood and sawdust and i throw the big lumps in the pickup. a rake and a shovle come in handy. i also clean up after myself when carving stumps in peoples gardens. so remember to factor in clean up time when you are pricing a stump carving commision.

Yes it is a cockchafer. When I was a pest controller I used to get called out to people thinking they were cockroaches all the time.

I always take someone with me when im doing a display.its good to have help setting up cleaning up and to sell my stuff whilst im carving. Also to stop people entering my roped off work area. I like to give myself an hour and a half to setup and the same to clean up and load anything I havnt sold.

Very nice. And good talking to you the other day thanks for comming down.

is it sprayed yet we want to see some pictures

I love that castle its ace think i might have to have a goe at one of them.

Toms tip of the week to create a large area of blackened wood rather than use a blowtorch, get a bottle of malt vinigar and put a few nails in it. drill a small hole in the lid cus it gives off gas as the reaction takes place it took me a few bottles shattering to work that out. leave it for a few weeks then take the nails out. then paint the vinigar onto your wood. the iron that the vinigar has stripped from the nails will now stain the wood black build it up in layers to get it as dark as you want. you have to remember to take the nails out other wise you will end up with a bottle full of rusty sludge. oiling over the black makes it look even darker. as used in the samon below. i did this quite a few years ago and the colour is still good. the blowtourch blackening weathers off kinda quick

thats amazing but what a waste of a boody good bit if carving wood.

interesting about the arbtech i was gonna ger one but i ony want it for hollowing out the bowls of chairs and stuff like that your knowledge of timber framing is going to come in handy with a secret prodject im trying to get started. i may be in touch to pick your brain about joints. i have a couple of good books but advise is always better.

interesting about the arbtech i was gonna ger one but i ony want it for hollowing out the bowls of chairs and stuff like that.

Good effert dude. i got a bit fed up with looking at beard for a while but havnt seen one lately. i like the fact that its not got that american look to it. i also like the bum area thats the bit i always screw up. well done:thumbup1:

I have a Berghaus Munro my parents bought me for Xmas when i was 8 I have had id for 20 years and it has been on all my adventures Childhood and Round the world ones i put it into retirement 2 years ago but is is the best bag i have ever owned. My brother runs an expedition management company doing all the big high profile scientific expeds and he swears by them.

it looks like a mixture of clips from axe men and heli loggers and that other one where the bloke recovers wood that has been under water for years

Ok moving away reom tools how do you people mark up your wood. as well as the two colours of spray marker that i explained in the 2nd post of this tread. i use a grid drawn over a picture of what i want to carve. and a grid drawn on the log. the picture has a grid of 1cm squares which can then be scaled up to fit the log for example to 10cm squares. the probem arives when you try to fit a grid from a flat page onto a round log. you can either cut a flat edge onto your log and draw a grid onto that and copy the picture fron the small grid onto the big one. then cut round the outline right the way through the log. turn your log 90 degrees to the side and draw on what you will see from that angle then again cut out the outline. this should give you a good place to start working the 4 sides together and then working in some detail. this works ok for a smaller carving on a big log but wastes alot of wood. there is another way it takes a good bit of head scratching but is well worth it. if you mark out your grid onto the top of your log and then where the lines go off the edge run the line straight down the length of your log. then measure down your vertical lines and run the horozontal lines around the log. this will give you a grid that is spaced correctly . the hard part is then drawing onto this grid as the boxes are all different sizes but as long as you are only looking at the log from one side angle at a time whilst drawing the proportions will all be right. this works very well on loge where you cant afford to loose to much wood or need to keep a rounder shape to the carving. oh and if you are cutting right the way through a log allways keep your saw bar level it is a real pain when one side is 2inches lower that the other because you paid so much attention the following the lines you drew and forgot to whatch what was happening on the other side of your carving. tom

there is no tool envy here Si (honest:321:) this is not a look at what iv got and you havnt thread. . i forgot all about my grinder paint brushes and blowtorch. but i keep them at home not in my carving stuff. what i a froe? i thought that was another name for your hair. and what are carving screws? i just make sure i use a heavy lump o wood so it isnt goung to move or i just stick my foot on it.