kentjames

Depending on what your seeking, theres IOG saltex on next week. SALTEX 2013 Not exclusively arb but some arb equipment for sale, Orange plant will be there along with GreenMech

54ft i reckon

Fingers crossed we do - nice long list of leads to follow up. Costs for the day were just for the gazebo and signs, no cost for the pitch

Sadly not, alas the insurance wouldn't have covered us I did pop up top while the tug of war was on though

Yesterday I attended our village fete at Sissinghurst with my new stand and banners, good time had by all, borrowed the cherry picker for the weekend from the local hire shop I usually use and had plenty of interest and over 20 leads to follow up. My little helper Tom had a great day too and I have to publicly thank my other half for her help too

They flower next year on this years wood, so cutting now will remove next years flowers for the most part. However if its flopping over too much then it needs cutting back by around half, and as with most shrubs, remove the thicker older wood in favour of the younger wood. This process can take several seasons. If it was me, I would cut it harder now, then some regrowth still may occur giving flower for next year, then next year after flowering start to shape the shrub as the growth comes.

Thinking about taking in the All England Koi Carp Show at swanley tomorrow, plus a pub maybe... Then I have a stand at my local village fete on Monday to hopefully drum up some business on my doorstep.

you'll probably get 10 other replies all saying other things but... My bashlins are with the leather pads and straps and someone else i know hated their velco set up and so changed them to leather. Where possible try them on before you buy.

If all else fails ... As he said

Just been clearing down the laptop of old images and came across this one. Before I purchased my lovely stihl collection, I was using this old naff saw for ground work etc - its cr*p but did the job at the time. Anyway, one day the air filter / spark plug cover screw thingy broke on site, so a quick fix was done to keep the job going. Its still sitting the in the old shed thinking about itself to this day...

One that starts when asked and cuts wood all day.... Stihl the best...

Loving the slooooooowww mo's! nice work

I do not have any experience of the stimmer personally but I would massively recommend getting a Kombi system, with strimmer, if you look after small gardens. You will be amazed how much you use it, especially if you do hedges or even if you do not then get the blower attachment for it. The basic one is the KM56 but its reported to be a bit gutless so I went for the KM90 - there are two more models but depends on what power you need really - the bigger the engine the more power. My prefered supplier is FRJones: Stihl KM 90R engine unit (28.4cc) 4-mix | F R Jones and Son James

Yes please, be very interested in seeing it. thanks

Would you consider selling your tw150 instead of part ex? Would be interested in seeing pics and price, I'm over the water in Kent. Thanks.

Give Tom Marks a call, 07990933359. He has a processor and may be able to help you. Home - Forestry Woodland & Estate Management https://www.facebook.com/pages/Forestry-Woodland-Estate-Managment-F-W-E-M/118321981544682?fref=ts

Just up the A21 you will find lamberhurst engineering - i know they do chipper sharpening Lamberhurst Engineering James

Mike, give Richard at Kingswood training a call, they might have a space in that time frame. Kingswood is easily reached by train or driving - not far from london really. Best Tree Surgery Training for Forestry, Climbing, Machinery, Felling & Chainsaw Courses | Kingswood Training Services

Thats type 2, nowt wrong with that and given that most 38's tests are done in pairs on the day rather than a group its the most likely you will get asked to do. and type 1 - bridge to bridge, casualty stays on their system and you tend both hitches. Usually used if their climbing line is intact and serviceable - for instances where the casualty has broken an arm or badly bruised themselves.

Oh I quite agree the real world is massively different, however to tick the right box on the assessment you just have to play the game

Yes thats it. > Spike up using flip line with your supplementary climbing line as a back up above your flip - using either a running bowline or karabiner choked on the stem. > Spike past the casualty - use both ends of your climbing line to achieve this and avoid spiking your casualty in the leg or worse! > Establish your false anchor above everything - usually its a long sling with a swing cheek pulley attached so you need the height to achieve a good secure anchor. > Secure your belay rope into the pulley anchor point. > Come down to your casualty on your system, attach the prussik from your bridge to their bridge - keep their system attached to the pole / them - first attachment point. > Attached the belay rope to their bridge = second attachment point. > Get your ground crew to set up the belay using a munter hitch and prussik in the usual set up around a good neighbouring tree. > Begin lowering the casualty through good clear comms to the ground for the belay, lowering yourself on your system as you go. > And in the training / test / practice scenario - get your casualty to tend their friction hitch - keep attached as a back up back up. Also if your rescue scenario is for an unconscious patient then use your lanyard as an additional sling around them to keep them upright - over one shoulder and under the other arm is best. I think, after ive read that 5 times over, that is it - a type 3 pole rescue. James

When I did my course, it was two points of attachment. So bridge to bridge (injured parties harness to rescuers harness - using a prussik loop usually) and injured climber descending on the attached belay. You the rescuer stay on your own system for the descent. >> The injured party in training / test scenario should always keep their original system attached to them as a safety back up. << James

Funny, and oh so relevant and true of some of our family!

Without wishing to sound like the folk of the travelling variety , but could you not use a scaffold tower with out riggers for the last, biggest, section of the chunking down? Hire of those isnt much and you can take them pretty much anywhere and adjust the feet to the terrain? Obviously if its evolving rigging then it may be tricky but in theory the same as using a mewp - ie dont hit the mewp?

Hi Bob So far I haven't turned any tree down, however I have priced to what I am capable of, ie if its 2 days work for a competent climber and I consider it tricky then i'll put in for 3 days. I know that makes it more expensive for the client but I'd rather take my time, do it slow, know im safe and do it right than have to rush because the money isnt in the job. I know I have lost one tree to this quoting philosophy but I am still here today :-)