codlasher

Like these;Industrial Wax Crayons, in all colours, for all Industrial Surfaces codlasher

A wax marker is the usual thing or a piece of lump chalk from the Chilterns codlasher

Any client. To be honest as I no longer operate in the commercial world so I suppose all my jobs are now classed as domestic. codlasher

I quote for jobs most of the time except for doing the odd 'day-rate'. My rules are, and without exception; 50% up front. Work starts when those funds are cleared. I ask for the payment in a cheque a week ahead to cover the 5 day clearance rule or BACS payment which is usually within two hours. In doing business this way I'm covered for any expenses, can immediately pay my staff if I have priced for extra help and shows a commitment from both parties, my client and myself. codlasher.

If you 'know' about tractors or know someone who is in the know. This is probably the place to look;Cheffins - Farm Machinery & Plant Auctions Otherwise you will have to look at the dealers sites such as;Robert Wraight Ltd | Second Hand Tractors and Agricultural Machines J&F Agircultural Engineering - Tractors For Sale Look at the Same. Two I have had long relationships with for quality machinery.... Or register with your local auctioneer and go to the farm sales to view/buy genuine 'off farm' machinery but again take someone who knows a bit just to hold your hand in case! codlasher

Great to see what the team are doing! Keep sending more please. codlasher

Kawasaki sometimes put the oil requirement choice on the dip-stick. Have a look there. codlasher

Well apart from the usual little rust probs, worn clutch and leaky master/slave cylinder, brake caliper seizure, timing belt milage/years/condition, steering uj's. This will also have a Salisbury axle and the half-shaft splines will need looking at too as they wear out at about 100,000 miles. Not a difficult job, just more cost to consider. This sounds like a long list but there are some good ones with 160,000 and some horrors with less miles. I like the 110 Hi-cap too as it is a good all round vehicle and is less bouncy than a 90. The disadvantage with all cabbed LR's is the lack of backwards availability with the seating. This makes the driving position rather more uncomfortable for tall folk than it should be. codlasher Rust in the battery box is another age related thing to look for. c

I would hazzard that you will be ok to make these. They have done all the movement they're likely to do and even using the 1'' per year natural drying tiome you are close to optimal.....Go for it! I have found that bought in joinery oak is almost too dry for things like external doors and windows as the damp expands them again considerably. codlasher

I'm a Scag fan. The Sabre Tooth Tiger I bought from R T Machinery - Welcome is still going strong nine years on. Bucher used to make a good walk behind machine but I can't find them offering anything new on a search. Perhaps they have been re-branded? Scag have a similar machine to this old Bucher. codlasher

They're really lovely! Thanks for showing. codlasher

Sounds like you will have to think a little further ahead and have some dry timber cut & stacked for this machine to work efficiently. Otherwise it sounds like you have been sold a pup! codlasher

Bring them into your house for a month minimum if not longer before laying. I'm presuming these are already processed and dry, not straight off the saw! Consider putting 'cupping grooves' in underneath of the widest (anything over 150mm) Use good old fashioned cut nails to fix and if you can get hold of (hire?) some floor cramps (pictured) you will do a good job with just butt-fixing. You can lay the boards out and cramp three in one hit with a sacrificial piece to ensure you don't werck the edge of a usable board. Again I'm assuming these are about 3/4'' to 7/8'' thick. codlasher

I'd look to buying some 1.0m3 net bags from one of the usual suppliers. You can buy these in multiples of 15 for £75. There's not much point just making another pile again without the ability to move them easily later. Next is to have either a bag support like a tower scaffold or better still a loader with pallet forks and loading & neatly stacking will be easy. The next bit is just hard work with whatever machinery you have, cutting, loading the splitter and bagging...... I think four days is a good goal for someone and a helper under 35......At 56 it would take me a little longer even with my faithful Posch! codlasher

Wishing you positive thoughts and hoping you recover in your own time with your friends and family nearby. codlasher

The standard 'heavy duty' Land Rover rims also known by some as wolf rims (the dealers use this word to make them seem more valuable!) come in two differing types; tubed and tubeless. The valve hole will let you know visually and there is a stamp on the rim as well. Just for your information. Personally I'm not bothered but fitting quality Michelin tubes into the tube type will give long service life. codlasher

Thank you sloth, particularly re the concerns on the insurance side. I'll certainly discuss matters relating to his house/buildings/structural insurance though. I have a very comprehensive insurance portfolio and broker to advise on any extras needed. My past experience was with a sycamore tree invading a local church and having had the roots tested to ensure focus was on the correct species, we took the offending tree out. The good bit from that job was the timber being milled and made my kitchen! codlasher

I have been asked to investigate ground heave caused by a big willow tree some 25' from the wall of a property. There are some cracks already in the wall of this property. Has anyone had experience with this type of problem? Owner does not want to remove the tree but is suggesting a deep trench to cut the roots that are pointing in the direction of the house wall. I may consider this as a solution. Perhaps filling this trench with 30mm shingle may help. I'd appreciate other sugestions. I have at my disposal; A 360 excavator, A good climber, A client who is prepared to consider a five year solution, Access to good stone. codlasher

I have been involved with tipi & yurt things in the past and although I can't help with the material sourcing I'd advise the usual 'ask around' woodland owners/managers/sawmills for your needs. You will need to consider things like steaming, mortice & tenon joints, the specifics of different timbers and what you want with portability and all those other things that need to be considered. The side walls, as shown in the picture posted by castanea, have a very close relationship with the hoop and the bearers. You need to decide the size of your you wish to build and then make the walls in the way shown, although wet hide is another way along with copper rivets/roves (like clinker dinghy fastenings). These are made in several sections to make transport easier. The important part to remember is that for each 'V' in the lattice wall there is a bearer to fit and for each bearer there is a hole/slot in the hoop. A family sized yurt will have 80 V's & subsequent holes in its hoop...... You will have to plan your door bearers too and the average for this is about five. I hope this helps and I wish you well with the fun and skills you will learn when creating one of these wonderful structures codlasher

Don't be too tempted with a six pot, the extra two cylinders and length knocked the 'nimble' out of this machine. You do not need anywhere near 100 hp in woodland as you are always in low box. A 764 is the best choice unless you are doing a LOT of roadwork and like everything there's always a downside. codlasher

Well I can tell you that this is an original early 'Chieftain Forge' cab and it is fitted with the original Wartsila ships crane. C 1970's and they were very well built and incredibly reliable. If I had the £'s I'd restore the tractor first then the crane......I rebuilt the Wartsila and it is a simple item, just heavy. If it is off the machine and on the ground doing this would be relatively easy. The seals are still readily available and just need strength to do. Bronze bushes can be turned along with replacement pins. Like! codlasher

We did a number of tipi things together in the late 80's and he kindly signed my copy of 'The Earth Care Manual'. A lot of what he wrote is being put into our little piece of England. I'll miss his enthusiasm and wisdom. codlasher

PM on its way! codlasher

A nice looking piece of equipment (The Dominion). The big wheel lifts the table, if you didn't know that. This allows you to do things like drips/rebates on window cills with the blade only standing 1/4'' proud. Only warning with this when I looked is that it has no writhing knife at the back of the blade. Having suffered a nasty injury WITH a writhing knife on a similar Wadkin (but there was too big a gap) I'd class that as thoughly dangerous unless one could be fitted. Sometimes the brackets have been broken off probably by similar pinching incidents. It's surprising how sudden a 3' x 6" x 3" piece of oak can decide to pinch the blade and come back at the operator..... There's a lot of inertia with the motor and heavy 3' saw blade going up at this point. codlasher

Pedunculate (Robur) oak are rather more wibbly when growing. Sessile (Petraea) are straighter. Both grow into big trees in the end!] codlasher