codlasher

This co does a good moderate tune for your TD5;Alive Tuning Be aware that your DMF and etc will not cope with any increase in HP above the standard so you will have to add an allowance to change the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate to solid. Removing the EGR is a standard mod and makes little difference. This re-map does make a small positive difference to the MPG and removes that horrible built in LR strangle the engine suffers from. I have two friends, both brothers, who have taken the tuning of these 5 pot engines to an extreme. With care you can have minor excessive black smoke and a 0 to 60 time of under eight seconds! To make a disco perform like this says something about the engines potential. They are still drivable round town too. codlasher

There were some problems with our Guilliet saw and when we had the wheels re ground the fellow suggested that we ignored the tension meter as he thought it was still too slack......From then on there were fewer wobbly boards as the blade ran better. Perhaps you could look at this and just check the alignment between the head-rig and the bottom wheel. There is potential for considerable and deliberate adjustment with the bolts that hold the bottom wheel on. codlasher

I'd check the output pressure from the pump next. I believe it should be 2000lbs or more. Under that and it's not happy. There is a pressure adjuster in the valve block if you have a modern two lever type. This is on the right hand side back bottom. A 1/2'' (13mm) lock-nut & slotted adjuster, perhaps this may have come loose? In for more, out for less. Not much more I can offer. codlasher.

Relief valve faulty? Blocked filter? Pump US? Does anything move? Take a pipe off at the rotator end and see if there'e oil coming out.....INTO A DRUM though Had slew seal problems with mine but that didn't stop it working, just made me oily! The link between the front mounted pump and the engine pulley may have sheared if you're one's like that....? codlasher

I purchased a JD 5500 new from possibly the last Smithfield show, to do all general forestry jobs. I looked at the 60 series at the same time and decided that the 85 Hp of the 55 and the size of the machine suited my requirements better. I promptly fitted a Seppi mulcher from Lamberhurst machinery the the tractors rear. I had specified creep gears. This machine spent a number of years doing many forestry jobs of which a third was mulching. These were mainly clear-ups from tree safety work but softwood brash, and the odd small stump, from mechanised thinning needed breaking up from time to time and the little JD coped we'll with this type of work. These were mainly to ensure the keepers were kept happy! I had access to and did hire in Practicality Brown's Ahwi Machine from time to time for bigger jobs but the JD & Seppi was always to hand and proved a very useful part of the tools available. I would disagree with your opinion doobin, that the width wasn't suitable as I found this combination perfect for a multitude of jobs and a tractor with a wheel track less then 5' would never have powered the mulcher in the first instance! In fact if I'd had anything wider on the back, and I quite my Spearhead swipe, (Like a Bush Hog) as another example at 5' cutting width, many operations would not have been possible in a forestry environment. Too much over-swing and resulting tree scabbing! codlasher

In all honesty 100Hp would power a 5' Seppi mulcher. So this being the case I'd be looking at tractors in that size. You will need a creep gear set in the box for this work. As for towing a low loader trailer you would need to be very specific on the heaviest thing you're likely to put on said trailer and perhaps work from there. Remembering you are still restricted to 18MPH so the 40k tractor may not be so suitable and a 30k in the same model may be just the job! As open spaceman has said the next bit is using ALL that power to run a log splitter!! codlasher

Leave it. That is age patina! It will look like this in two years time so why waste time & money? A good wax will help and not cost a lot. I have seen many nice floors messed up by the 'need-to-sand-it' idea. codlasher

I have posted this before and have several of this companies bits and bobs. You can add or subtract to your choice but their Peli-box is a good starter. Range 180 codlasher

So you tear-ar*e about and lay some mats for this 50 tonner. This machine turns up and the driver gets out of his cab and looks at the mats and says; 'Mmm, not good mate. Jobs worth, jobs worth & etc'. He then drives away. No job. Involve the cranes management would be my advice to avoid any such trip-ups! codlasher.

Change the chain FAST! Horrible nasty thing it was too. The pulley kit may be available through an Opico agent but someone has suggested an agent in Suffolk. Takes a morning so quick to do. I would do the little ram seals at the same time too if you can as these usually leak. I've had one for 25 years and since changing to the rope haven't looked back. I also keep a spare set of seals in the workshop buy I'd certainly have to hunt for them if it leaked today! codlasher

+1 for Tuff saws. I can't fault their blades. Bigger stuff like Stenner/Guilliet/Robinson/E H Andre. I used this company;Southern Counties Saw Co Ltd| Saw Blade| Saw Blade Sales| Saw Blade Sharpening| Repair Services codlasher

When I was younger I travelled quite a bit and was involved with many varied projects along my way. House building in Oz, tractor driving (and crashing) in NZ. Motor barge work in France, Thames sailing barge work in the UK (Still doing that one) Tipi building in Wales. Sometimes money changed hands, sometimes it didn't. If your project was interesting enough and I was in your area I'd offer to lend a hand......... I have a broad skill range AND some surprising Q's to offer and these have stood me in good stead over the years in part-time employment and full time employment. So hats off to the opportunist and it is up to them to be the judge of slavery.... codlasher.

I know what you mean but I need to keep the timber in good nick! codlasher

The J Caird, the white boat in the picture IS a different boat. It is a famous museum piece with a story. Mine looks different as it is clinker built. The second pic is mine, showing the top view. codlasher

Yes, the shape the vikings made, shrunk or extended in their ships depending on the intended use and built in exactly the same way but using mainly copper & bronze fastenings not iron with the bigger bits being galvanised steel. Similar to the James Caird and the voyage made famous by Shackleton, his navigator the captain of the stricken Endurance, and the remaining crew to South Georgia. I had this vessel in mind when I was constructing the deck plan. Timber used is oak in the keel, stem, stern, joggled frames & engine bearers. The lower 4 planks are larch and the next 4 are pine then larch again for the top one. These are held by copper roves each clenched by two people. Douglas, cedar ash & pine feature in places dependant on their properties. Hollow douglas mast, solid douglas bowsprit, hollow sprit, hollow spruce topmast. Pine for bulkhead and engine case. Larch ceiling and seats and plywood for the decking on douglas bearers. Ash tiller. The hull planks were cut nearly to shape from a 9" x 7/8" x 24' length, wetted either by a brush (too slow) and later with a garden sprayer and warmed by a diesel fire to get them to soften. Just enough to bend to the frames then they were clamped in place and fixed to the previous plank. This usually took three goes. I had some of the originals as a guide and made a mirror item too for the other side. Certain old and rotten frames were removed as their shape had changed over the years and the planks only bend & follow one way......This was all done with the hull upside down with just enough space to crawl under. Clenching needed an extra pair of hands with someone on the anvil and me peining the roves on the inside. Hundreds! Year two saw the deck, spars and the engine in. codlasher

A picture of half way through. A years work. codlasher

I rebuilt and rigged a boat with timber & planks that I milled. Does that count? codlasher

I'm up to 2.5 re glasses and for a splinter I often have two pairs on. At this time of year three pairs may be used on the odd occasion if the splinter is small and fiddly! codlasher

@ nick channer. Do you have to possess a waste carriers licence to haul arb waste? Just interested. codlasher

SA is South Australia. Make sure it isn't an ex mining vehicle and you may be ok. I like this version. codlasher

I'm pressing the LIKE button! codlasher

Thanks. I like sheds and I hope the discussion that we've been having helps jamesd build a beautiful tiny shed which he will be proud of. I once built a little 8' x 18' miniature replica of a 75' x 24' barn just so I could do all those wonderful cut joints. The best part was that the timber all came from a load of oak firewood that I bought and had milled! I'm planning to try building another this summer using some douglas I have left from another project. I have an idea how it will look and it will enhance our holiday camping area....... codlasher

Thank you for your informative post. A little worrying that these modern membranes are marketed to do something that they aren't really up to. The old adage of 'if you insulate you gotta ventilate' still stands then with folk relying on the membranes doing this and its not happening! Hence your picture and really quite a nasty problem. codlasher

When you start your weatherboarding at the bottom by the wall plate you will have to 'tilt' the first board to create the correct shape to allow any driven rain to 'drip' off. This would normally be made by a piece of 3" x 2" cut diagonally and fixed on the wall plate, then the first board overlaps this by 1 1/4" to form the drip......If this is spaced out a little you will have formed a continuous air gap for the air to move in the gap you created. It doesn't need to be much as you don't want insects/mice to have access, just an air flow. I am posting a picture of a barn roof showing 100mm insulation fitted between 150mm x 50mm rafters to give you an idea of how your shed should look. The foamy glue holds it in place. There is a traditional set of trusses and double purlins underneath so the insulation is partly held in place by these timbers. The foamy glue just stops movement and any gaps. The Tyvek is laid on this followed by battens and then the roofing material itself. You can use temporary battens fixed to the inside 3" x 2" uprights to stop the insulation falling inwards. Then the foamy glue to permanently fix it in place. codlasher

The very first shed that I helped build was in 1976, that hot, hot summer! Timber framed with one bay as a TV room for teenage children. The whole building was felted using traditional tarred felt and then weatherboarded with 7" x 3/4'' larch from the sawmill. The bay that was to be the children's den was then infilled with fibreglass and plaster boarded. As the heating at that time was by an electric fire there was never going to be problems with heat differences. The shed still stands today and those children now have teenage offspring themselves! So that is one way. If you want to use this as a warm workshop and have a few more £'s and I can't remember if this is an alteration or new build. If it is an alteration I'd fix a 19mm (3/4") batten against the existing felt, on each upright, to create an air gap. Then I'd cut some Ecotherm/Kingspan type foil backed insulation to fit between the uprights. Bad cuts and joins can be foamy glued with Dow Insta-Stik. If you have more £'s you can then use insulated plasterboard to cover over this. Or up the game and add 50mm them either plasterboard or Sterling board. A new build will work in a similar principal but you will be working this in reverse fitting the hard insulation between the uprights first then short bits of batten of foamy glue to hold this in place, then membrane, them weather board. Remembering to leave the bottom tilt fillet with an air gap between each upright. This theme continues right up into the rafters and roof. Then the breathable membrane will do its job. Phew! Have fun.... codlasher.