codlasher

You had one, weren't they fun! (4000 that is) My mum has a picture somewhere of that and the DB. C1974! codlasher

I have had problems with these trailers. codlasher

I've just looked at the Arb aid and like the Peli box. Good to know there is a more focussed first aid available. I'd certainly consider it perhaps when my Crewmedic box goes out of date. codlasher

Have a look at these. Very sensible regards 'how far from help'. Sensible boxes too that will stand up to being chucked in an arb truck/tractor CrewMedic - Marine First Aid Kits - First Aid Kits for Boats codlasher

We had a little David Brown 775 with a set of hydro-tongs on the 3 point. There were a lot of Fordson weights on the front to help the steering but this was mostly done with the brakes. This was a tiny little tractor although slightly bigger than the Winget that we had to tow the trailer and more powerful. Big is not necessarily best in early thinnings or small woodland because you loose that ability to get close up to the work. The last machine we used for skidding was a Ford 5000 and it was capable of moving 33' lengths measuring 40 cubic feet. Anything bigger and it would have struggled with grip. I think these were 75 hp codlasher

I'm going to throw a spanner in the works here and look at this from another perspective. Yes, you can spend anything you like on any type of welder and 'do' welding. BUT... you'll never be any good at it because unless someone explains the principals of joining metals together you'll always have that niggling doubt. Vocational qualifications Welding and Fabrication Skills - Level 1 Lowestoft Lowestoft College | Emagister This will stand you in good stead as a starter. You can progress further if you like and good welders are still in the 'hens teeth/rocking horse sh*t bracket work-wise. Whatever you make will at least be up to a reasonable standard, not look like the pigeons have been roosting and not fail at the weld.... Just my pennies worth! Oh and by the way, these are ok for small works;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THERMAL-ARC-175-SE-STICK-LIFT-TIG-WELDER-240V-INVERTER-/180800055263 codlasher

Wrestling with the steering wheel just to keep it in a straight line. All the hassles if you want to have a valid insurance, not just paying a premium but when someone runs into it and you have to explain what it is...all the hassles trying to find which part will fit when you need a part, the bone jarring ride that ones with leaf springs. A lovely dreamers vehicle but realistically £4k max! codlasher

Re the dipper. Get the dipper vertical, hand-brake on and remove the hydraulic couplings, pins and then have some help to remove the ram itself. They're heavy! Unscrew the end cap and pull the chrome out. be prepared to get wet though and remember cleanliness is godliness where hydraulics are concerned!. Take a picture of how the seals go together, draw a picture how they come apart...This is important! String them on a piece of wire/cable tie and take them to;M Barnwell Services Ltd - The UK's leading distributor of Fluid Sealing Products unless you have an alternative supplier. Check inside the tube for debris, just in case. Clean the tube, chrome and re-assemble. Hard work but satisfying! Re-assemble......No more leaks. On the power front. You'll have to pinch a supply from the feed & return of any one of the rams using a couple of three port valves. As with all hydraulics keeping the fittings clean is really important. Apart from that, simples. To take the power you will have to tie one of the levers into its operating position and working out which is the flow and return. codlasher

You do write well Alec! Totally agree with your view there. @difflock. I hope you don't feel your time was wasted though, as Alec says at the end of his note Fred may be amenable......Well.... thats all in the future! I hope you had a good trip anyways and learned a little about these old machines which, no doubt, you will file carefully away for the future:001_smile: It was good to chat to you too. codlasher

Does make you weep though! codlasher

I'm hoping this exercise is a success, wishing you luck too. The last time the old Guillet made any money was on a set for Midsomer Murders! Center stage too :-) codlasher

I'm assuming by the 'Talked to Fred' may mean you've talked to the owner? From the pictures that I can see; It isn't a saw that has had a million owners and been moved & set up in a million different places so. hopefully it came apart without the aid of a gas torch.... I hope the fence has been covered as these seize if left out in the rain. They are basic needle rollers but prefer grease to rain. Starting box/electrics haven't been sold on to someone else as these are an easily sold component. My old mate used to hang onto things like this and use them as a lever for the 'final payment'. Motor is in ok order and again not left in the rain. Roller carriages can stand much abuse but being cast will break if carelessly handled and are not so easy to repair. Bottom wheel assembly and its components including the bolts that hold it onto the head-rig should all be together. Big bolts are not cheap. Guide block assembly, top and bottom, should still be attached to the head rig. These are usually an integral part go the head rig but are not happy being bumped.....Sometimes they are a little separate component and have a roller as part of their assembly...Can't remember if this was a Guillet or Stenner thing and I've not worked closely on a Robinson. Table is all there and this seems to be the tell tale to the work it had done.....The bars look square and not dished. Dishing shows the metal wear and indicates many, many sticks being loaded and milled. As ever the bottom bearings will have to be checked but again if it hasn't been stood in the rain they will be ok. The loading ramp looked integral and is useful. You'd need to measure and make a plan of the pit so the head rig would sit on a copy. String and a bubble sets the bottom wheel to this and then the roller carriages square to this set up. £1k is scrap value. Way better than £15k for a mobile mill! codlasher

Here's a fantastic old sawmill suitable for an enthusiast. Robinson were very good saws in their day. bandsaw / sawmill | eBay If you have the space and mechanical aptitude this will serve you well. Looking at the table it's not done that much work either. No power feed is a minus but a hydraulic feed can soon be sorted and they were less fenickety than an electric one.... It brings back memories. difflock, I thought of you putting it together and the smile as you cut your first log:big grin: codlasher

I think doobin gave some very sensible advice. A 'cheap' Ford 4000 around £2k will be a real dog. You'll have to spend £5k on a reasonable MF. IH were good machines in their day. Zetor is worth looking at and the same goes for Deutz but these are rare because there weren't many imported. Just my 2p's worth! codlasher

I would imagine a Stenner 41's wheel would measure 41inches. a Stenner 36/48 re-saw worked that formula. Southen Counties still carry stock for these machines. Remember the golden rule with a new blade; Run for over an hour then send it back for crack testing.... codlasher

Love this, but why bother with the effort of using your machinery to make sawdust? All the huts I have ever seen sit in a field looking inviting and only move a maximum of one hedge in a year..... codlasher

056 is still a cracking saw. I've owned one for some thirty years and it still comes out to play when it's needed! codlasher.

It depends what you want to use it for. I had mine planked into 2" planks with one straight side so I could re-saw through the Stenner later. I then planked to 6" x 1 3/4" which were then groove jointed to form the worktops. Other pieces were milled to make cupboards etc. Mr Thompson at Whiteleaf furniture's saw-mill in Risborough recommended that it be 'end stacked' i.e., stood up on end. This I did as well as sticking the planks so air could circulate. I used 2/3rds for my kitchen and as I warned in my earlier post, the woodworm had the rest! I only have the chopping board which was one of the blanks cut from a sink hole as an example. You can see the 6" plank run in the picture. There is a 1/4" slot in each plank with a tongue to join them codlasher

I am still a fan of Citroen's classics. Safari DS. With the headlights that turned with the steering so you could see round corners. I'm also a fan of Fords AA series trucks and maybe, just maybe will find one, one day! I love the Bentley and the Jensen.....is it an FF? codlasher

Half an hour in a welders shop will fix that. Your local Ag supplies will have the 'black' rods. Failing that ebay;Cast Iron Repair Rods 3.2mm x 5 Rods arc welding | eBay Looking at the break you'd be wise to add a wider base plate to spread the downwards forces generated. codlasher

I love sycamore for kitchen worktops. Just remember that wood worms LOVE this and will get in very quickly and very quickly ruin it! I had some remaining from building my kitchen and it was ruined within 12 months. I should have sprayed it with Cuprinol or similar! codlasher.

A couple of pics to show scale. I hired in some help for the bigger pieces I knew I'd have trouble with! One section of the beech, laying on the road, was 30 cube. The other pic shows 90 cube standing. We used gravity and rolled it, in similar sections, down to the road where the big machine then carted it up to the loading bay. codlasher

I have always rounded to; 30 hoppus feet is 1.0 cubic meter. Which in beech terms is one ton. I worried when a beech butt measured over ninety cube as I knew we'd have trouble moving it because it weighed in at over three tons. codlasher

Stenner are the Rolls Royce of that type of saw so they are well built. Not much goes wrong with them. If it has done a lot of work check the bottom wheel bearings as these, being in an inaccessible place don't often see daylight. If it has been left out side the fence may have seized. Check the starting electrics too modern ones are usually in a small box, older are in a large metal box and you have to 'wind' the saw up by shifting a lever like an Oxford welder (if you know what I mean?) If it has done a lot of work the wheels may need re-facing and Stenner can advise on this. It is a process that can be done on site. This will ensure correct blade run and other problems. Are there any blades? Take one to the saw-doctor for crack testing and sharpening to make sure it is in good condition. There is a routine with a new blade, in that you never cut with it first time out of the box. It has to run for an hour and then go back for crack testing..... There are other things like setting the blade position on the wheels using a drilled hole and a small brass stud but you've got to get it up and running way before that! Just getting the wheels square and parallel to each other is of primary importance but that is only time and care. Getting the table to run square to the blade is a similar thing. Modern lasers are good for this plus a 3, 4, 5, triangulation for square too. Is the oiler still there, this has diesel in it and is a drip feed onto a felt pad. My old friend reckoned about two weeks from start to finish with something capable of lifting the head-rig on site. (A fork truck) He and I fitted a Stenner 36 re-saw in that sort of time and that included digging and creating the pit, the dust pipework and the electric ducting. The Stenner plan your chap has will show you. You will have to cut some boards with the saw for this and it also allows access to change blades so don't skimp as a blade is a bitch to wrestle into a tight hole even with gloves on!! The dust extraction should be piped from the bottom of the pit using Osma type pipe so you can use dust extraction equipment available on t'internet That's as much as I can remember for now. Good luck! codlasher.

Stenner may be able to help you with a plan. I believe you will need a pit or site the machine high enough so the bottom wheel is off the floor. I know of a Guillet in Benson, a similar Stenner in Naarwich and one in Beaconsfield but as you don't have your location you may be too far away for any of these. Sadly my old mate who was a specialist (and my dads partner) is no longer with us...He was a mine of information, but thats of no use to you :-) If you can get this for scrap value (because that is what it is worth sadly in todays world) you will not be out of pocket. Remember to allow for dust extraction in any calculation. As an example I had a Guillet in a similar state (this is ten years or more ago) and The gentleman I mentioned above was willing to help with advice setting this up as it was originally his. He said 'can you wait 'till I come out of hospital, I'll only be in for ten days...'. Sadly he never came out, except in a wooden box! The saw went for scrap last summer in a sale. codlasher.