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RealEstate

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Everything posted by RealEstate

  1. Hello Stihl experts, Managed to catch my 211 on a branch which pulled out the primer bulb. One of the pipes has come off the bulb, so saw doesn't seem to be getting any fuel. See pic below Tried to wiggle pipe back onto bulb with tweezers, but to no avail. So how to get the fuel pipe back on? Do I have to remove the air filter housing and carb... How best to do this? Any hazards, eg fly away springs etc, to watch out for? TIA
  2. At risk of dragging up an old (but v useful) thread, I'm interested that the Hoppus calculation gives a constant ratio between actual cubage and Hoppus cubage (1.273), independent of log diameter. I would have though that smaller dia logs had proportionally more sap wood than larger logs, and so there would be more wasteage (assuming one doesn't use the sap wood). But apparently the Hoppus calc is just a geometric adjustment, ie converting from round to square logs.
  3. Got to be the sit up and beg...is it a Ford? That's got class! Will still be around for the wee lad to have, when the green plastic bomber has long gone.
  4. Don't forget the Dexta - does everything a 3cylinder 35 does but cheaper and sounds better! Dexta was first with the 3 cylinder and has better hydraulics. And don't forget that Fergies were designed by Ford!
  5. Any good for making spalted beech wood, much loved by turners for the pretty black and white patterns?
  6. How did you measure this? I demand an enquiry over that last decimal place.
  7. European Oak at £800m3, is that when seasoned, eg after 2 yrs? Do you have a price for Beech? I assume you normally mill new-felled wood? Is there an optimum length & size of planks for saleability? How does one go about selling the milled wood, eg when it's seasoned? TIA
  8. Do logs shink appreciably when dried? Surely up to half the space in a cube of logs is air, so 'shrinkage' due to wood drying must be fairly neglible? Does new cut Beech really sink?
  9. So if for sake of argument, you're selling chopped, seasoned firewood for £100/m3, you wouldn't want to pay more than £25/m3 for chordwood in your yard. ie about £75/tonne for chordwood?
  10. OK maybe if you don't like tractors. But ebay would be a better bet specially as you're in the heart of England. What DB is it? Have a look at the DB website for possible fixes/ values etc.
  11. Get it back! Bet my Fordson was seized worse - was full of water after standing for 15yrs. You can rebuild the engine for £1000 or less, and gearbox prob just needs some seals!
  12. 20hp ? Petter BA2 question - SmokStak
  13. Don't use standard posts, they'll rot. Use pressure creosoted ones (like telegragh poles). Available from Fence N Forget in mid-Wales or Wynnstay do them too. About 3x price of standard posts. FenceNForget guarantee for 60years. Or get standard posts, dry them under cover for 6months, then soak in 50:50 coal-tar creo & old engine oil for a few more months.
  14. Is that £48/m3 ? So roughly half price of seasoned ready to burn firewood? TIA
  15. So very roughly what's the value of chord wood - lumps/trunks/chords hauled out but not cut, split or bagged? Half, or quarter, price of seasoned ready to burn logs?
  16. Thanks Fellers, I've contacted RobD as advised. One query: The 18" bar on my saw since new is marked 443.045.651. But Makita parts lists on web say bar should be 445.045.631 Have I been using the wrong bar all these years? TIA
  17. Hi Fellers, Prompted by the excellent advice, my observations as follows: Yes the blades on the chain are longer on the RH side, 1-2mm on average. I guess that's because I'm right-handed and it's a more natural movement sharpening the LH blades. It pulls to the right also. Bar seems pretty straight, but when I do the ruler test laying across the bar, in the mid length of the bar, the ruler isn't square to the bar. So yes, one side is worn more than the other. Also the bar has 'burrs' along the sides, where the chain has worn it. I can't be sure whether the bar is splayed or not, but it is showing signs of wear. Guess it's cut the best part of 50Tonnes over the years. Is that par for the course? Perhaps I need to splash out on a new bar? Should I get a Makita bar or are other makes interchangeable? Ref the clutch slipping, is that easily adjusted or is it a dealer job? Thanks again for the excellent advice. .
  18. I've cleaned it out round the sprocket & bar and sharpened the chain as I normally do, inc the depth gauges. But it doesn't cut properly, tries to run off to the side and only small chips coming out (as if the chain was blunt!). Also the clutch seems to slip rather easily, eg if I put any pressure on it . Saw is 8yrs old and has been used around the farm. Been a good saw up to now - but it's never been for a dealer service. Any suggestions appreciated. TIA!
  19. Ordered one from Miles. Cheaper than Powertoolspares.Many thanks for the tip.
  20. Many thanks for your help:001_smile:
  21. Where's the best place to get a replacement oil plug for my Makita? Part # 010114031 or is it 010114032. TIA
  22. Is your Hycrack still for sale?

  23. Took my saw to the dealer, who said the rope pulley pawls were sticking and replaced them. Also did a service so it was a worthwhile visit. Thanks to all for your advice.

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