openspaceman

Thanks for the explanation, I thought it affected idle jet. I have checked the screen between the pump diaphragm and the inlet needle valve and that is clear. With the main jet out and the Hi needle screwed in to stop air from getting past its hole in the metering chamber and a fuel tube pressed against the main jet hole there is no discernable difference whether sucking or blowing though I think it is no more restrictive than the needle jet when the fork paddle is fully depressed. I think if I take out the welch plug to get at the check valve the repair will have become too uneconomic.

Yes but I felt you had to push harder on boring cut with a chain that was nearly finished

Not tried putting it into wood with strao blocked, maybe when it goes back together. I've done the carb cleaner down the main jet and taken the brass main jet out and it is clean. I thought the check valve was only on the low screw circuit. I'll re check the strainer this afternoon. @bmp01 it's a 2011 saw.

I'll check in the morning, it looks in good condition, it was part of a friend's estate and was in a collection of other non working machines. I replaced the bulb some time ago and the saw had not been used for 4 years but never tried it properly as I had no bar and chain. I got it back when a new bar and chain was fitted and it would not rev up. So far the only one that has defeated me is the FR480c so I'll persevere.

That's not how it works in my understanding and not all clays are shrinkable. Those trees are far too small to have any bearing on the soil moisture IMO. I am no building expert but trees seem to get the blame for building work with poor foundations, I have seen settlement on a chalky site where the extension footings were poor and settled causing the tie in to the existing building to crack the old brickwork, luckily not a tree in sight or it would have been blamed.

No but it wouldn't meet PUWER with no guarding and the lever operated with the right hand leaving left hand free. A clamp holding the log before the splitter and dead man controls.. Anyway it looks from the weld marks that it started out as a box splitter.

I've kept the bits because a friend's son still uses a 266 in their woodland but happy to let bits go if they get you running, maybe a donation to cancer research if it works.

Apart from that damsel flies settle with wings folded up and dragonflies with wings out flat I don't know

Many of these cheap machines don't stand much disassembly and rebuilding because of self tapping screws in plastic cases often strip. This saw is the only one I have had where the oil runs out before the fuel. I purposely kept it to lend to people who ask, not being happy lending out my working saws but since I was given it no one has asked for one. Shame the OP is in Chepstow or he could have it.

No it never four strokes and it misfires, almost like there was a bit of crap bouncing around in the jet but it's clean. I did but i can look again with a magnifying glass, yes a bit to bring it up to level with the aluminium case and I do suspect this area is where the problem is because the purge bulb is sucking air back from the main jet, I think this can only be because there is a restriction getting fuel past the needle jet. How high above do you suggest I risk? I only fitted a new diaphragm/gasket/ pump kit, no needle and fork with the kit. Yes I know and yes it is sucking fuel plus air from the carb and pumping it to tank. I wish I had ordered a new spark plug (as I don't have any small ones as all my other saws use 14mm) with the other bits just to be sure it's not that contributing to the misfire but the fact that it runs well with the stratification port blocked still suggests fuel starvation.

NW Surrey near M25 j11

Prunus of some sort, probably flowering cherry. Grub the stumps out whole when you dig the extension footings.

Part arrived as per L&S usual prompt service, and fitted, much better but air still getting into bulb and hi running erratic, it's definitely fuel starvation as saw runs fine with finger over the stratification throttle body. It makes me think the fuel hose was were degraded and broke when I took the carb off. Normally at this stage I would swap carburettors but don't know of another ms181c I can borrow off.

That's an Einhell saw, not something I've taken apart though I was given one and it works. I found a diagram which may help to separate the handle/tanks away from the engine

Yes I thought the fungus largely re infects the current years growth from spores produces from the previous year's growth.

I don't know but I also replaced the pipes to the bulb as they were a bit stiff.

Well I own neither a 545 or 550mk2 but we had both on garden arb jobs when I was helping out last year and for general branch snedding for the chipper I would pick up the nearest and not notice much difference, logging up and the 550 was worth walking to get.

Funny thing is I have never come across this problem before. I could have fitted a plain plastic fuel pipe instead of waiting for the new piece to arrive but as I only keep standard stihl small tube and had nothing bigger bore to hand I lashed out £6.75 on the moulded piece. It was one of three stihls I was given to fix last Monday and now I suspect the bulb was only ruptured because it was pumped so often to get the thing to run at all. The others were to replace a snapped throttle trigger, easy, and a spark plug blown out of its hole, to which I fitted a helicoil.

Not fixed as I expect the piece in the post from L&S tomorrow as I ordered it just before middday. I couldn't see it was damaged when it was in its little clip and strangely it wasn't leaking much petrol, just sucking it in when the bulb was pressed. Fingers crossed tomorrow.

Yes

You'll need to check the voltage of the motor, also there should be some numbers on the little Peltier device, the little square thing clamped between two plates. If not see how the fan spins with just a single AAA cell on the two wires attached to the motor. Have you a link? I think you are being very over optimistic. Come over to the off grid thread and discuss. TEGs produce up to 4% electricity of all the heat that passes through them from one side to the other. That's with the hot side at 300C (if the solder will stand it else only 300C) and the cool side at about 25C. as the cool side warms up the output goes down. So you would need to poke about 2000W through a module to get 100W electricity out but all the heat would have to be removed at 25C so not hot enough for DHW if you maximise electricity out.

Thanks, I had replaced all those. It turns out it was a split fuel hose from the top of the tank to the carb.

I only know of some about 100 miles away.

The prinmer bulb is sucking fuel from the carb and dumping it to tank. Because it is sucking air from somewhere other than the tank this air goes to the tank and pressurises it. This is why I asked the original question; can the air be being sucked back from the jet and into the metering chamber? I have replaced the gaskets so will give it a try tomorrow as the gasket to the metering chamber was split.

By stuffing more air into the engine and injecting in the fuel much faster and finer. I wonder about this, is a modern 2 litre transit engine lighter than the old duratorq 2.4? The thing is the cubic capacity of the engine doesn't matter once you have a supercharger (turbo) an engine depends on the mass of air it consumes and how near to stoichiometric fuelling you can get to plus how near to burning it all before the power stroke has started. After that the components like block, head and cranks etc. have to withstand the forces and this will lead to them being equally massive. Yes increased pressure but probably lower compression ratio as you are now forcing more mass of air into a smaller swept volume. When I last had to deal with a cooked transit 2.4 engine it was far cheaper to buy a new engine at £2000ish than attempt to rebuild the old, the gasket set alone was £500 but that was several years ago and only one out of a fleet of 6. They tended to start having injector pump problems at 130k miles but that only cost a few hundred.