openspaceman

Heretic

That's right for most lithium nickel manganese cobalt ones used in power tools, these are the ones that catch fire if you abuse them but still have the best energy to weight. With seasonal use tools it's necessary to store them charged and recharge them after 6 months else the cells get low and the charger will not recharge them. I had a hedge cutter come in to the repair cafe that was flat and would not accept a charge from its charger. I managed to charge each of the 10 cells individually to 4.16V and it worked again plus could be recharged, which was lucky as the battery is now obsolete (same make as Titan).

kaowool or cerablanket, it can be fixed on with a proprietary waterglass based glue but Holts gungum exhaust paste is similar. I think I may still have a part roll of it.

Fenn mark 4

Similar here and I only have the shredder guard on the 50CC brushcutter. I mostly use the two prong shredderon an old fs360 with the grass guard. I do always use the cup under the blade, it saves a lot of wear. It must be four years since I did any serious work with it

I would always fasten a helmet chinstrap when riding but never had one on my hat for forestry or arb, I have had my helmet knocked off but always after it has done its job.

1024kg

I realised this but if it would dry in any case how can you tell if the lunies have a point?

Way to go Eggs👏

Polytunnel mid summer easily dries cut and split firewood in a month mid summer in SE England

Well I hope you go gently with it, New nikasil is only 20 thou thick.

Looking at last year's lesions I would guess anthracnose

We used to see this when we drove up and down forestry rides to get to work, over the course of the job the bracken was suppressed and the grass grew through. My experience is that heather does not withstand crushing. I see this when the fire brigade bring their unimog in to damp down heath fires, the heather dies off in the wheelings. Had I seen your post before I walked the dogs I would have taken a photo to illustrate this. When I did establishment work as part of the job as well as thinning I was involved with dealing with bracken. We used asulox and, for a short while, dicamba, all very well to get the trees above it and robust enough to withstand being crushed as the fronds died back in winter. As long as the planting took place within a year of the felling and the trees had their heads in the sun it didn't matter if the bracken lingered on for many years as an understorey. So there was no need to do anything further apart from shut the gate. Heathland is different, if the fertility has gone up the heather cannot compete, so perennial intervention is necessary unless, somehow, the potassium status is reduced. In fact what happens is the green welly booted college graduates from the wildlife trusts and natural england prevent work and gradually the bracken takes over. Here you can see 1 year old ling seedlings growing in the bracken litter, yesterday, and the bracken plants still growing until I knock the tops off. A bit beyond the first shot you can see 2 year old ling well established and some tussock grass taking advantage of the lack of bracken growth.

It's 4 patches that have invaded the heath over the last 40 years, Now I cut a bit as I walk the dogs, initially as an experiment but now an obsession. I guess about half an acre. I'll revise that after looking at google earth to about quarter acre Yes preventing it feeding the rhizome but the major effect is stopping it shading out smaller plants. Also there is something allelopathic about either the bracken or its litter, After the first year it was apparent that new heather seedlings were able to germinate, I might try and remember to take photos. I'm very pleased with the result but realise when I stop cutting it it will revert and take over, simply because the increase in available available minerals favour it over heather. The reason lowland heaths exist is because farmed animals have overgrazed it and trotted off with minerals to the abattoir. In less clement climates a desert would have formed rather than heath.

I wish, 4 years in so far and whilst it has lost some vigour it regrows with much shorter stems making it more difficult to cut amongst the young heather. I'm told the rhizomes will keep throwing shoots for 20 years but I won't be here to see that.

The bits I haven't cut are well over head height here, the good news is the heathers and tussock grass are coming back on the areas I have hand cut repeatedly

No point leaving the sycamore there, could become a bigger problem. Interesting photo showing that settlement crack. How old is the wall? It looks like it was built in two phases. Those yellow stocks are soft and they are variable because the amount of cooking they undergo depends in their position in the firing clamp, the good bricks for exterior work were the ones in the middles and the less fired ones on the outside got used internally. Was this an original internal wall? I'm thinking it would have been built with lime mortar which would have accommodate the movement and then set itself again without affecting the stocks, it looks like it has been repointed with strong portland cement, this being stronger than the bricks has caused them to crack through the bricks.

Easier said than done nowadays as all the local auto engineering workshops have gone locally to me. Mind this is the London commuter belt.

slipper Rees lope

Now he's dead and gone

Nor me as I don't have one but as you say wet and dry round the circumference of the bore not up and down. The idea being the scratch marks retain a bit of the oil.

@Steven P are you confusing it with the old lady that swallowed a fly?

That's right it is used as a desiccant, it kills the standing crop and that dries the grain plus it kills any green weeds, making no till direct drilling possible. In my youth sulphuric acid was used to kill the haulm on a potato crop then paraquat came along until it was banned and I suppose glyphosate became cheap enough to use.

Make sure you clean the carbon out of the ring lands before you put the new one on.

Dendrocoupe? I don't like them from a safety point of view, they tend to fail very suddenly, often because the root hairs rot and the soil holding of the root is lost. When they set totem poles a good length of stem is set in the ground and the failure point around the soil level is more visible.