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Everything posted by openspaceman
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Probably was doing over 40kph. Looks like boom had swung off to nearside, strikes abutment and impact separates slew ring. Digger now fits under bridge and is dragged along by outfit's momentum. I wonder at what stage tractor overturned.
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The common land bit is a red herring as there is generally no common law requirement to fence, just the liability if animals cause damage. Rail is a different case: The Railway Safety (Miscellaneous Provisions) Regulations 1997 Unauthorised access 3.—(1) So far as is reasonably practicable, a person in control of any infrastructure of a transport system to which this regulation applies shall ensure, where and to the extent necessary for safety, that unauthorised access to that infrastructure is prevented. (2) In paragraph (1) “access” means access by any person not at work on the transport system or by any animal. (3) This regulation applies to any transport system except that it does not apply to any part of such a system which— (a)is within a harbour, harbour area, maintenance or goods depot; or (b)is part of a factory, mine or quarry,
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A paucity of figures and no costs or life cycle analysis. Also no indication if a grid tied system can be islanded during a power cut. I worry about battery life as I was recently given, and passed on to a friend a 9 year old hybrid with an end of life battery which would cost £2000 to replace. It's old owner managed 38mpg, the new one 62 which says something about driving style. That's feeding a troll's ego. Look at your account settings drop down menu and follow link to ignored users.
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@wills-mill brought a petrol engined one over
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Yes I hope donk comes back with more information. The obvious benefit is in conjunction with solar panels or maybe a wind generator but there may be a case too for off grid where a back up generator is also used. It may better optimise run time and enable use of a smaller genset. I'd like to know what life and charge/discharge cycles it will last. My experience of my smart phone LIon cell is it's good for about 2 years and 700 cycles.
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https://www.safetygearstore.co.uk/hydraulic-tirfor-wire-rope-hydraulic-winch-tu16h I cannot find a video of it working. A bit pricey but possible to diy
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Tirfor had an option to mount a hydraulic;ic cylinder and run off a powerpack, I have never seen one but it should be doable with a £500 honda engined powerpack and a fancy self reciprocating ram set up
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I hold it only requires their assent and accepted practices would be to remove arisings from an arb job unless specifically asked not to. Conversion is a civil offence and arises in the sort of situation when you leave something with someone and then they dispose of it without your knowledge. I think we'll have to disagree on this one
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Knotweed and other Invasive Species Reports/Removal
openspaceman replied to Mark Wileman's topic in Business Management
I agree with all you have said; the thing is it is not necessary to incinerate (turn to ash) but just to sterilise it and this need only be 90C (in fact for composting waste it only needs to reach 70C for one hour). Doing this retains all the Soil Organic Matter but will of course kill all the other beneficial microbes. At my last job we had a contract to eradicate JKW from a prestigious development so I advocated soil sterilisation and did some figures on it but the main contractor opted for reburying the contaminated soil in plastic wrapped cells 4 metres down and my boss preferred to constant income stream from repeated foliar spraying of anything they missed. From the quoted paper it looks like overdosing with glyphosate had a negative effect and correct but weaker doses translocated better to the rhizomes in autumn. This is much what my late friend and vegetation management expert told me, high doses traumatise the tissue so it does not transport the chemical as well. Even when it translocates to the rhizome it only disrupts meristematic tissue that is active in the rhizome, dormant "buds" can remain viable. Also there was not significant lateral translocation. With damp soil having a density of about 2000kg/m^3 and a specific heat of 1.48kJ/kg per degree C it's an expensive business to sterilise it, I calculate about £2/m^3 in fuel alone, but there are ways round it if some heat is recycled. -
Knotweed and other Invasive Species Reports/Removal
openspaceman replied to Mark Wileman's topic in Business Management
resurrecting an old post but this: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs10530-018-1684-5 appears to confirm that the rhizome is seldom killed just put into some sort of dormancy by glyphosate -
I'm not sure where the self tappers could go but I would also add carbon fibre tow around the lug and along either side of it to the casing for a few inches. Keep things clean and warm the araldite (ordinary araldite not the fast one). Stubby's advice seems better
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I'm trying to reply on my cellphone so bear with me: this is the material I used for my experiment and what I proposed to use prior to finding the bike shelters . It costs about £6/m^2 and I have a lean to roofed with it that lasted 35 years before it became too opaque and started splitting. The replacement is 3 years old and shows no deterioration yet.
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If the hubs are both locked and in 4wd then one back wheel and one front wheel have to slip together. Sticking it in low 4wd with front hubs free wheeling was a sure way to break rear half shafts on series land rovers. Leaving hubs free wheeling without use for weeks was also a surefire way of destroying UJs and inadvertent engagement of 4wd in high could be spectacular. The drawbacks in freewheeling hubs outway the benefits IMO so my vitara stays with them engaged.
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Will that all looks good and ideal as a log store but I was looking to be able to shift crates in and out so that more drying cycles could be accommodated in the few months the sun can do a bit of work. Hence the idea of an 8m south facing "window" with the body of a curtain side behind it to load through.
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Not critical but so cheap that it must be worth doing, there's not much point running the fans if it's raining outside Grid electricity tends to be cheaper and the heap of wood will still have heat able to evaporate water when a cloud passes over. To my mind the problem is more of optimising the air passing over a log because from my experiments of logs in free air the actual drying time can be fast if the air passing the log is able to carry the moisture away.
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Ian suggested there were heavier grades of clearish plastic available if longevity was more of a consideration than light transmission. It does seem a cheapish way of storing large volumes of logs. I had wanted one at my last job, with the intention of sitting it on pedestals to allow a loader to operate inside but it never happened.
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The figures I suggested are theoretical so probably no achievable in practice but do consider that they will be in addition to normal summer drying as the outside air will still be contributing if the ratio of recirculation to venting air movement is right. It is important to get the fans right as they cost electricity to run and it may be more economic to take longer and minimise fan use. Anyway I calculated the chord of the curved surfaces and multiplied that (average) by the total length to give 23m^2 facing the sun at about 50 degrees, so near enough optimal and perpendicular to the sun's rays at midday in summer. As we intercept 1.1kW(t) per m^2 at best and the average during daylight is only 35% of this I guess at a figure of 18kW for a few hours in direct sunshine. In practice I would leave a temperature and humidity logger in the device to see what it achieves and would hope to be able to weigh crates before and after to give an idea of water loss and decide how to optimise the running conditions.
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Yes and I was aiming to be able to load crates from the back and have about 20m3 capacity as he doesn't sell a great deal yet. I was thinking it would only need about 3 weeks in the summer but the last load could be stored until sold.
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I guess you mean polytunnels? I have never had one for logs but my brother in law had an expensive disaster when one suffered in a gale and lost many bedding plants. We had an expert on polytunnels and their various plastic sheeting on the forum but someone got offensive so he left This is covered in some sort of clear polycarbonate and budget will be only 10% of that but if I had access to an existing polytunnel I'd try that rather than this DIY approach.
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a major feature of this sort of saw is that it has no set, the clearance is given by the fact the blade is thickest at the teeth and tapers to the back. Thus initially every tooth is cutting exactly as its neighbour on the same side, hence the exceptionally smooth finish.
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My understanding is that satisfies the requirements of HSaW 1974 with the exception of use of chainsaws as PUWER requires a nationally recognised certification. I actually never got hedgecutter, chipper or bruschcutter/strimmer qualifications and that did restrict me to some extent on civils jobs.
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I've been doing small experiments with air drying, where essentially the sun is heating air and increasing its capacity to absorb moisture, and in free air (i.e. log standing by itself) and seeing oak dry from green to 20% mc wwb in 44 days. So as heat speeds drying up and solar heat has no fuel cost I started looking at small scale solar drying. I found just using cheap corrugated acrylic sheeting I could make a simple greenhouse where in the last 2 days the temperature has stayed above 40C for much of the day in sunshine with relative humidity falling to 24%. This is consistently more than 10C hotter than outside in the sun. RH is about the same because there is free air flowing and out. Last week I was employed dragging tops and stuffing an ancient chipper on a commercial refurbishment where the previous tenants had allowed the Leylandii and mixed broadleaved hedges run away. I noticed a pair of old cycle racks had been removed and set aside. I mentioned the possibilities of these being the beginnings of a solar log drying kiln for the boss's son, who runs a log round with about 40 customers in his college holiday. Boss being a petrolhead was not at all interested. I made an enquiry and they were available for sale (these things new cost about £5k erected) I sent a photo to the son and explained my thinking and he was interested. At this point father and son took over and bought the shelters. Now I'm not sure if they are going to implement the idea but I estimate placed side by side and south facing they will intercept 18kW(t) in sunshine. This is enough theoretically to evaporate nearly 30kg of water an hour if the air circulation is good enough. With the shelters side by side and south facing and a roofed area behind and the back being a curtain side from a lorry he should be able to stock about 20m^3 of split logs in stillages. I think wit a few low powered circulation fans and a differential thermostatic switch only running them when inside temperature is 10C above outside and a humidistat controlling a vent fan he should get good drying. If I am kept in the loop I will update progress.
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Then it's not surprising the Stihl did better, the blade was hollow ground with a finer finish and the points on the teeth were well formed, the florabest one was coarser finish and you can see burrs on the points. Now if the steel is as good as the Stihl's you may be able to bring the Lidl saw back into shape with the judicious use of a diamond feather edge file.
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When I was asked to help out on the railway I took my old Husky 262 but soon accepted a MS261 for its better power to weight when trudging in hundreds of yards. Now helping out on domestic arb jobs I far prefer to pick up the Husky 245, I have lost quite a lot of muscle mass in the last 2 years so weight has become important. For logging I'll stick with the old Husky and the little einhell I was given (for its lightness).