openspaceman

Where is that?

I've said this before but be very careful opening your eyes first thing in the morning. The healing that goes on when you are asleep is very fragile.

We used to have little trouble with the Stihls but there was an issue if someone fiddled with the HI setting in that IIRC (and it was a while ago and memory is getting a bit unreliable) there was an ignition rev limiter. If it was tuned rich the limiter still cut in but with the throttle wide open unburned petroil carried through to the exhaust so that oil condensed in the exhaust. A similar problem frequently occurred with the BT45 drill which had a spark arrestor and if this was used wide open throttle between holes the gauze blocked almost completely. Not a problem that happened with a sensible operator but a weekly problem with utility or rail arbs, easily solved by unbolting the spark arrestor and burning oil off with a blow torch. I always put them back in as they cut the noise but I know others cut the gauze off.

Yes this is about what I use each year and use just an axe over a few days in the spring even though I have a small processor and cone splitter rusting away somewhere, I don't think the neighbours would appreciate industrial activity in my garden.

Well I suggest his fire just didn't get hot enough. Never transport it offsite to deal with it. The idea is to get all parts above 90C to kill. Dry superheated steam sterilisation has been used in hot houses for years to kill off persistent pests. Thermal input need not be as bad as you think, especially if the soil to be treated is dug up and put through the treatment plant, in situ is an interesting challenge which I never got to try. I was never certificated to work on site for JKW eradication but I did witness how poor and slapdash our operatives were so lack of effectiveness was not surprising (similarly I was "clerk of works" on the firm's rebuilding project and saw how poorly insulation details were complied with as BigJ mentioned in another thread) . Workers need to be competent and committed. At the personal level I managed to pull up a clump on our local common 20 years ago and left the arisings to dry out, it appeared to kill the plant out, Woodworks says similar, I'll have to go back and see if it has reappeared. It will never be easy and take a few seasons if it is an established infestation, whatever method is chosen, and yes I would start with glyphosate mid summer onward.

At the olympic park it all soil was excavated and reburied below 4m in plastic lined cells, It was probably not successful because of the scale and poor implementation.

When I worked on a mixed farm we used gramoxone to dessicate prior to combine ? FOE claim 78% of OSR is dessicated with glyphosate and it appears to be cleared for all crops whether food or industrial. FOE quote " For example, the increased use of glyphosate as a desiccant on UK wheat crops has been linked to increased glyphosate residues in UK breadx ."

Perhaps we should change your moniker to Gunga Din ?

How big an area? You could dig it up, sift it out and burn it, just make sure you don't move any bits off the affected area. Soil sterilisation with steam is also a method.

... but you won't be able to grow anything else in the treated patch!

Okay but be aware that because of the way they dilute the offgas with PICs, steam and CO2 they become impossible to flare until close to the end of burn, hence they put quite a few nasties into the atmosphere. From a climate forcing point the methane is a magnitude worse than CO2 for the relative short time it exists in the atmosphere.

Technically it is a retort as the difference is a kiln has the fire inside the char container and the retort has the fire outside

Why not buy a licence to make one of Beau's kilns?They are small but you can sequentially load the steel barrels one after another every hour or so.

Which is the lumag like, the Tmech or the screwfix?

Big heaps shed water and often there is enough oxygen in air in the heap to sustain pyrolysis, straw is a good case where there is enough air in the hollow stems to oxidise all the carbon in the straw, swamping it with water won't work, this is why thatch stays dry.

My guess it it will normally be caused by a person, either inadvertently or deliberately, but spontaneous combustion of heaps of wood is fairly common and more likely the bigger the heap and green matter and resinous material. What seems to happen is mesophilic bacteria digest the volatile solids and get hot, up to 70C, as the heap is large the heat does not escape easily, methane, steam, CO and CO2 are given off, rise through the heap and the water condenses as it reaches cooler layers whilst the methane CO And CO2 escape. We now have a warm dry area in the heap into which air can diffuse. Any lipids, oils or fatty esters left react with the air, in the same way oil paints or turpentine "dries" in paint. This is a form of oxidation so the temperature rises a bit more. It only has to reach about 200C for Oxygen atoms to dissociate and combine with any degraded plant material ( like touchwood does) and true combustion starts. Initially smouldering as the pyrolysis offgases are well below their autoignition point but once the smouldering reaches about 450C then a flame can take hold.

I have drawn a little schematic:

I was siamising the PTO pump and linkage pump, so if they are the same size flow doubles. If you go any bigger with the PTO pump then you need to suck oil out of the gearbox and cooling could become an issue as the main flow is then circulating and only the linkage flow portion is returning to the tractor transmission housing. You really need the contents of the reservoir/transmission to be double the flow per minute for cooling and to allow any air bubbles to settle. Not causing any foaming is the reason all oil should be returned below the surface of the oil.

Not necessarily as long as your pto pump draws no more than the linkage pump. Plumb the feed for the pto pump into as close to the point the hydraulic return from the system goes back into the transmission using a pipe at least as large as large as the return pipe, take the high pressure from the pto pump and Tee into the supply to the spool block. have a non return valve in this line and a pilot operated relief valve back into tank set at a slightly lower pressure than the linkage pump. This last bit is to protect the linkage pump and is not strictly necessary as the main relief in the spool block should blow. Make sure the spool block is fully capable of taking both flows or else everything will get very hot. Also the return to the transmission oil must have no restrictions and be to below the oil level else the pto pump will be sucking air. It must not be via an auxillary spool block An extra return filter is always a good idea.

what tractor and loader have you?

I've no idea how big it is I have a stump at my brother's to do and it looks like the hire cost will be £100+VAT so a machine like this could have a quick payback

If you can figure how to search it @aspenarb posted about a cheap one he bought and was using , around £1k IIRC

Yes

Not really thought about it but more than £5G for the agric spec one.

IME the .325 was fine on the 254 15" and it was also supplied with the 262 18" when it came out but in hardwoods breaking down tops I was able to break .325 so upgraded to 3/8.