openspaceman

It depends what the "activity" is. You must not intentionally take, damage or destroy a wild bird’s nest while it’s being used or built. Also some birds, e.g. wood pigeon, breed throughout the year, we were stopped on a job with pigeon squabs in a nest last week.

29C here and the heath 300 metres opposite still burning

I suppose the "lock" passes through both the live and the tail strands of dynema? The lock will weaken the rope but as you have a loop with 2 lengths then reducing to one thickness my guess is the whole bury and lock is stronger than a single line but less than 200%. of a single line.

Would you tell us about the strain gauge weigher thingy? Cost, Accuracy etc.?

Not that I'm in the market for saws but the 40 quid difference in price just gets you 3/8 running gear instead of .325 a bigger filter and .2kg more weight? What proof of servicing does one need to qualify for the 2 year warranty?

I only saw one at shows and read a bit but my mate in Wales swore by his 1) reads like a failsafe brake that is normally held off by the hydraulic coupling 2 ) this seems to be the main drive which was a drum off a lorry axle the drive is engaged by applying the drum brake, the drum and input then all rotate together

It looks like @doobin and I sing from the same book, I'd be looking at heat pump and underfloor heating with a top up by electric immersion for the Domestic Hot Water. A woodburner makes an easy back up in very cold weather, all the time outside temperature is above 10C and inside around 20C you will get a bit more than 3kWh of heat for every 1kWh of electricity put into the heat pump. Even a stand alone air conditioning unit will provide a little heat in winter advantageously and provide cooling in the weather like now. You need to do the sums for yourself for the costs but there are three elements, the amortisation of initial capital cost, the running cost and the maintenance cost. That depends on how big the heat pump is and how much difference in temperature you are looking at, once the delta T gets above 10C then the coefficient of performance struggles to stay above three, I expect the COP on a modern unit is better than what I was dealing with 15 years ago. As I said I don't think radiators are the way to go with heat pumps. I'd worry about relying on LPG

Me too, on a conifer reduction Wed and Thurs and boss became aware of some squabs in the final tree so gave me an excuse to miss Friday,

Lower temperature Also longer time constant so the heat pump is constantly topping up a small temperature difference There is also a psychological benefit as the overall perceive comfort can be achieved at a lower overall temperature if the heat rises and feet feel warmer than head does.

IMO not with standard sized radiators which are really best accepting water at upto 80C and returning it somewhere above 50C to get the gas boiler in full condensing mode. Again IMO heat pumps are great for underfloor heating but need boosting for DHW and possibly in very cold weather. I gave this advice to my brother when converting his house with a heat pump in the garden and internal buffer store with immersion heaters to top up. He ignored me, the circulation pumps had to work hard, buffer store constantly de stratified so immersions cut in frequently,

You stole my next line Anyway Dexter is in the picture

sinister remark

Is he the guy from the chip shop??

Has anyone tried running a ms260 with just one ring fitted? it always seemed sensible to design with two but the equivalent Husky 254 only has one

Yup I've learned how to flip images but how videos?

That's interesting, I didn't use a timberwolf with stress control until around 2000 after they morphed. It made me realise how much more productive it could be to just stick a piece in and walk away knowing it would cope rather than tend the Dosko. The Dosko is still going but the loss of productivity over the years must have made keeping it a poor choice. Later I realised the "letter box" opening was of value when chipping conifer tops which would bunch up in the 6" square opening and then marvelled at the aggressive feed of the Forst 6". So if the parts are available a retrofit should be okay. Some chippers seem to use the alternator W output for speed sensing so no longer any need for the toothed wheel and hall effect sensor. The first generation of stress control was very simple in that the tachometer sensed rotor speed and switched a solenoid spool in the feed to the main spool such that the hydraulic pressure was all dumped to tank. If the blades were very aggressive they could continue to pull material in by over running the feed motor(s), I don't know how this is managed nowadays whether by blade angle design or using an over centre valve on the output of the main spool to feed motor(s). The hysteresis of the speed controlled switch meant that high idle had to be reached by the engine before the hydraulic flow to the feed spool was restored. Logically you would cut the feed when the engine fell to the revs for maximum torque, in practice manufacturers seem to cut out and back in nearer to maximum power.

I was going on the angle of the dogs as well as the back handle and trigger. Looks normal one tooth, tie strap then opposite tooth to me.

A deafening silence from the experts probably means this question is a bit too contentious. I suspect compliance is the major issue as chippers can be dangerous and modifications that are not approved could lead to problems with H&SE if and when something goes wrong. Does the Entec conform to the required hopper and feed chute dimensions and stop controls? Mostly it's probably not worth doing, mind I'm speaking as someone who has spent a few hours each day for the last two tending an ancient chipper with no stress control on some leylandii tops and I'd guess 30% of the time was necessary just to prevent jams and stalls which would not have occurred with a modern 6" chipper but then will these modern chippers still be working everyday after 30 years?

Yes the only drawback is that it occupies quite a bit more space in the log store. I'm beginning to regret having so much softwood in mine this year as I have had to turn away some ash as shed is full.

You're right of course but I just apply a grease gun to the hole and screw the grease in with the plug on Stihls.

A close up of the snapped shaft should show if it was previous damage and then a fatigue crack leading to a complete break.

The toothpaste tube of stihl grease screws directly into the gear head hole on their hedgecutters, just squeeze it in till no more goes in and put the plug back in. My Makita has a grease nipple which is more convenient. I gave up checking my Husqvarna strimmer heads as they didn't seem to lose any.

That's probably all you can do but it may not just have been a period of drought but some other environmental factor affecting the roots.

It's obviously not happy but removing the dead bits would just be removing the symptoms, the problem will be with the root system's ability to deliver water to the foliage.

I'm not going to comment on whether requiring facemasks to be worn in shops was worthwhile, I have donned one twice to go shopping. However a surgeon or dentist wears them for entirely different reasons, to prevent splashes being inhaled. Mind I was most surprised when my dentist started using them 20 years ago and wondered what had prompted it at the time.