openspaceman

15 rose/briar 14 horse chestnut, (aesculus hippocastrum) 13 Ivy,(hedera helix) 12 rose/briar 11 ivy aerial leaves 10 soft rush (juncus efusa?spelling) 09 ivy berries 08 elder 07 bramble 06 possibly old nettle stems 05 ash (Fraxinus excelsior) 04 ash keys 03 ash 02 haws 01 haws, bramble leaves and briar stem

trouble is they need to be 750mm diameter to cut 230mm but faster than a chainsaw, just as easy to sharpen with a file, unless TCT, but have to be returned to a sawdoctor to retension and gullet. When things go wrong they are more trouble than a chainsaw.

I think the video shows a gust doing this and attaching the smoke to the other side of the ridge in a Coanda effect. I wouldn't lose to much sleep about finding what is causing the depression in the room, two cheap fixes are adding length and an H cowl to the flue and/or plumbing the outside air direct to the stove to make it room sealed. I have not used that stove heater but did use a cheap Aldi hot air gun and yes it could blow ash out and smoke when lighting the fire. Indeed I have run my particulate sensor and seen, and confirming a recent newspaper article, a definite spike in particulates in the room when reloading, it takes best part of an hour to get back down. So opening the stove as few times as possible should make sense. BTW outside air here is worse and builds up over the evening, whether that is just my particulates settling down or the neighbours' I wouldn't like to say.

Yes I just watched those, I was aware those H cowls where for windy conditions and prevented heavy rain getting into the chimney but have no experience of them, shame they are so ugly. It's definitely an easy enough step to solving the problem

Yes unless you can mount them vertically ones I have fitted seem to work okay with the bubble of air. It would be handy if we had a +1 icon as a choice with the like, laugh, confused or sad

I think I have only come across it on prunus and that is to remove the affected parts and sterilise tools. Also only prune in high summer to prevent it getting in. You need a plant pathologist to advise and I'm not one.

If that were in UK I would say it was silverleaf, a fungal disease

Once it's hot and running you should not be able to see any smoke. I'm a bit paranoid about this as I have fussy neighbours and they were the main reason I changed to a modern stove, and I'm glad I did because it is a lot cleaner burning. I always look to see if there is smoke when going out or coming in. I still have an issue burning holly cleanly.

It's difficult to decide what's happening but it does seem that there is a circulation occurring that is causing cold air to come down the flue until enough heat is warming the chimney so that it creates its own draught. The opening window business suggests there is a slight depression in the room normally so there must be something, like a heated bathroom upstairs with an extraction fan or just a warm room with a window open, causing this. The same thing might happen as the fire dies down and combustion products are sucked into the room.

Only if it is within 2300mm of ridge, if it is further it has to be no lower than the ridge but it must be 1000mm above the roof surface.

In your instance I don't think so. Nearly all natural gas heaters are room-sealed with a balance flue and concentric air intake. The big benefit is if the door seal is good and the stove is shut down there is no chance of CO getting into the room. I don't recommend keeping the stove in as I think it important to maintain a flame to ensure clean burning.

This is a bit worrying. From what you say when successfully lit there is no problem. We have discussed how these modern stoves have a tortuous path for the air to get in as it needs to be preheated before being injected down the glass or as jets through the back, so the flue has to contain hot gases before it pulls enough draught to overcome the resistance. It also seems there must be a thermosyphon happening such that as the fire cools cold air is coming down the flue, bringing combustion products into the room as it replacing hotter air leaving the house through something like a batthroom vent. I would think having the stove room-sealed with cold combustion air from the outside is the safe solution.

Me too it's just mould forming on wood that is still moist. The log looks more like oak to me but you can often make out the dark parts of a circle where the tyloses have formed in the sapwood of infected elm. AFAIK the fungus (whose name has changed again but ?? ulmi) is single celled yeast like so probably has no obvious fruiting body.

I got one years ago for when I was feeding the chipper, it's very heavy so I hardly wear it at all now.

I don't think people were routinely immunised for smallpox here then, indeed I think some outbreaks were caused by inadequately prepared vaccines (the covid19 vaccine here, but not Russia or China, is entirely synthetic). I read that it was 30% fatal, it seems to have been far more deadly when taken to the americas and affected the native population, but as it was spread by the spots bursting it would be difficult not to be aware of it, whereas covid19 is often asymptomatic.

Keeping this only to public and employers liability; what is actually covered if an employee, labour only or free lance employee or sub contractor is injured or injures someone? As I understand it for injuries at work the insurance only covers an employer for his negligence. So if an employee injures himself through no fault of the employer no payout. If the injury happens as a result of the negligence of another employer then it is settled by insurance. I kept personal life insurance till my youngest child was 18 as well as mortgage insurance in case my injuries were my fault (they were).

I think so as long as it is non dynamic non stretch rope. I have used it with an ordinary 13mm rigging rope.

Actually we had two of the first tracked 6" Forsts for getting across fields but I agree with where you are coming from. The 8" chippers are for putting bigger branches through for productivity as well as not having to tote so much roundwood. I only used a TR6 and felt it fed in more aggressively than the the Jensens they replaced, We had some problems including return to Forst for repair but they had clocked up 400 hours by the time I left. We had the tracked 9" A430 Jensens too but they began to have big bearing life problems so went. We also had 5 safetrak 1928 which ran well but had major repairs following "contraries" damage and a couple of Heizohacks. The tracked machines basically chipped everything they could and left it on site, for which the 13" Heizohack excelled but and 4 tonnes involved transport logistics which meant it was not deployed as much as it should have been. All the while the small tree gangs used an ancient pair of Greenmech 6" chippers, which the mechanic somehow kept working, and they would bring back mixed transit loads of chip and log wood even though for disposal purposes chip could have gone on the biomass heap. A bigger chipper would have suited better but none of the younger guys could tow bigger. I disposed of 3 decent Kwikchip and Entec chippers solely because they weighed more than 750kg

That's okay for little fellas doing a bit of domestic but the big commercial guys want to push as much through the chipper as possible and away without the bother of handballing shortwood onto the truck and having to sort it at the other end. When I was last working in November with the geriatric Dosko I reckoned I would be faster snedding out everything to 4" and putting the shortwood into the truck but for the fact I would have to bend over and pick up small branchwood to throw in the chipper. Also throwing roundwood into the truck and chipping as you go gets more weight for the volume of truck. This latter not being of value in a 3.5 tonne chipper as you are always overweight in any case.

Isn't there a browser on your smartphone?

Once the lesson was learnt I'd bring the reel indoors

I thought there was a different strike-droop characteristic between stick/TIG and MIG I've seen these spool guns for aluminium welding but don't you have to use pure argon and AC? Could you use them with a steel wire? I know the reason for them is to pull the wire rather than push it as the aluminium sticks from friction and kinks when pushed. Naughty, at least use some copper to keep the I2R heating down in the plug.

Hey how many years does it take to get any good, I can trump your 30 with another 20 but don't claim to be expert. Most of my welding has been emergency repairs when I couldn't get to a workshop so my 200 A 4kVA genset loaded in the back of the LR got me alongside most times, cellulosic rods burn off crap and give you a strong weld but you would never use them in a workshop for fabrication where surface preparation and MIG give a perfect weld. For the most part I agree MIG are better, the 440V ones we had at work were amazingly productive. I keep a JASIC stick welder at home and go down to ~2mm with it on clean metal, one of the things I found with MIG is that with my infrequent use the wire got damp and rusty in the garage not to mention the hassle of getting gas.

The wire is specified as a cross section so I think he is referring to 10mm^2 which is the heavy duty cable for a 30A cooker circuit in a house but can actually carry 1.5 times that.

Because of viral mutation - like the flu jab changes periodically , looks like it could be a yearly thing ;/ K That doesn't change the point in any way; yes the virus will mutate and yes people will catch the mutated version, their immune system will then not be naive to the virus and it's various surface proteins so if a future infection contains any of those strings of proteins they will be recognised and the immune system will go into action against the virus. Similarly as long as the jab has "educated" the immune system of the right sequence of proteins that uniquely define the virus then when the virus enters the body the immune system is fore armed with knowledge of these proteins and can attack the virus. My point was why should a jab offer better protection than having had and recovered from the virus. I had my first ever flu jab this year, some 10 years after it was offered. I had never bothered before because I have never knowingly had the flu but suspected the combined effect of covid and the flu may not be good for me. Of course if these various tiers and lockdowns work any infectious or contagious disease should be reduced but as I am an asocial being probably high on the autistic spectrum, my lifestyle isn't largely affected apart from not going to supermarkets (I get anxious in queues and have to make multiple passes of aisles in trying to find what is on my shopping list so likely to upset other shoppers) so I have groceries delivered or use the local shop where I tend to be the only customer and the higher price, less choice, doesn't faze me.