openspaceman

coup

I don't use this for distance but do use this method to look at the back of the sink and then get a better idea of where the tree should fall. I hold a stick at arms length between thumb and forefinger so the stick just ouches my cheek, then line it up with top and bottom of the tree and that's where the top should land.

It makes sense but I wonder what the long term effect will be. Hazel coppice became dominant fairly late on and the 7ish year cycle actually seems to fit well with the rotation end maximising mean annual increment. It also gave the size of stems that were needed for traditional stuff, like wattle, hurdles, thatching spars etc. but more importantly for crate making as exports of crockery took off and stoked the industrial revolution. Given that forest cover was very low by then it had the effect of re creating forest glades every 7 years as well as denuding surface fertility. This allowed the gap living species, like bluebells, to flower and seed in light conditions before the canopy overshadowed them again, the lesser surface fertility reduced competition for them from grasses. Having economic value they were protected from grazing animals.

Give? Have you not heard of Lehi? An american backed terrorist group.

I sharpen the front face with 2 to 3 strokes and then after all done one stroke on that top relief. Never as good as new but still good, it's therapeutic and I'm tight.

It looks like the chart shows synthetic 5W-30 has the greatest range but 10W-30 is good for any temperature range that UK sees. Oddly I found a Honda Civic oil consumption was appreciable and that uses synthetic.

I have sharpened various Silky saws including Hayauchi telescopic blades but only use them for lesser jobs and would always put a fresh blade on a climber's saw.

Best sit back and wait then. If you haven't broken any law it's your business.

It could survive if enough of that brown bark cambium is able to feed the root. The sapwood is still intact so the tree will leaf up but the tree ultimately depends on the leaves being able to send sustenance to the root . There have been success stories of bark grafts from other parts of the tree being used to bridge the gap but I have never witnessed or been involved. this probably is more for small trees but... Ring-barking WWW.RHS.ORG.UK Ring barking or girdling can cause dieback or death of a tree. Damage may result from careless use of machinery close to...

It's on Arbtrader, all offers considered.

It's then you'll find the error of hammering steel staples into trees

looks a fair spec, 4 cylinder water-cooled and the Kubota name tag should be good for longevity, I like that idea more than a B&S twin.I wonder if the fuel comparison will be similar to a diesel fiesta and a petrol one? Say about 30% more. Biggest difference will be the tax on the fuel in UK.

Yes it happens late spring and early summer, the culprits tend to be young males that have been displaced from breeding acting out of frustration according to what I read from the late Judith Rowe. The damage is often worse in a good year for growth or after a thinning where the tree puts on a wider band of phloem which attracts the squirrels as it is probably sweeter and worth the effort. I used to consider it worth pruning trees as often the damage would start from a crotch so a length of clean stem would not be so readily attacked as parts of the crown.

Hey I had it similarly during my A levels, it was known as the osculation disease, I wonder where I got it ;-). Yes like chicken pox virus I think it stays with you but then there are more foreign bodies in the average human than their own cells. I believe somewhere along the line a virus spliced some of its DNA into the woman we are all descended from and made her x chromosome a bit longer.

That looks like a few years old grey squirrel bark stripping damage. There will be incipient rot and it could become a concern in a few years, it looks like it weakened that small branch enough for it to break off.

Yes I think this is a job our fitter got wrong on the tracked 340 and subsequently the bearings didn't last, so the machines were sold. The chipper always seemed very good the few times I used it. I think the outer shell of the bearings were proprietary to Jensen which made them expensive. If I were involved again I think I would pay the dealer to do it right.

Yes if you use one of the thin flexible discs jut run down the side of the bolt to take out the thread and side of the shear nut. Then tap the remainder loose. If there is a washer there no damage done to the paling.

This is true of many small woods, often after the better timber has been taken and the lesser stems "recruited" to be a final crop in order to get around the need to replant and maintain. We lost our culture for looking after woodlands after the two world wars. I doubt natural regeneration to the level I think you mean was ever much of a feature of coppice with standards, unlike the French who aim for a dense carpet of oak seedlings prior to felling the remaining seed trees and then intensely managing the regeneration for many years. The English seem to have wanted to shut the gate on the wood apart from regular sales of underwood, the onus being on the coppice worker to tend to any maiden oaks. From the coppice workers point of view this was onerous as the oaks then detracted from the coppice crop. When you neck off that fallen stem remember 1cm at the bottom is worth more than 20cm at the top of the sawlog and most instructions for safely separating the root from the butt involve leaving quite a bit of the best timber behind. Consider also a small tear out of the buttresses top and bottom from a tight boring cut can easily be dressed out without affecting the sale value at all.

Brilliant. What's powering the hydraulics? It says the under seat HondaGX630 21hp

Fencing oak was a size as well as a quality, generally a tree that would have grown on for the butt to become "planking" or a longer length a "beam". Your picture shows a typical oak grown as a standard with an under storey but the canopy has closed or its own crown has self shaded over some lower limbs and they have died off, leaving dead knots, making the second length less desirable. All of it would be good enough for a small oak frame as the bits with dead knots while not having strength in bending would work in tension as sole or wall plates or tie beams. The butt end is clean so good for rafters and posts, 40 years ago the length up to the bottom of the major scaffold branch you have left on would have fetched £1.50-2.50/Hft in full lorry loads. I've been out of it too long to know current prices. The most valuable piece is the butt from the root plate to a bit below that dead limb at the bottom pointing into the ground at an acute angle, if a sawmill wanted this it would pay enough to make the rest not worth considering for anything except firewood or mining timber (a market long gone)

dragging brash all day is the most gutty un rewarding job even when paid

I see in my original post I said angle driver when I mean angle grinder. Also as I said if you gently tap the dome head on the other side to the shear nut you can often onscrew with your fingers. Failing that I used below 1/2" square drive with a static lump hammer on the dome head and the grip nut on the other. You have to sharpen the grip nuts with a dremel after use, @aspenarb's serrated socket looks better. Back then I didn't have a decent cordless impact driver

A donation to air ambulance for half that would be okay if someone wants it as is, I'll first check if it runs. I'd let the Dolmar 114 go too but that owes me 20 quid I'll just hang on to my Jonsered 621 and my more recent working saws.

I realise that contraction causes massive forces but I don't think I ever re tensioned a chain that was loose because it was hot. I also never loosened off a chain for storage but then I never ran chains super tight that I couldn't pull them round with thumb and forefinger.