Logan
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Everything posted by Logan
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We had a go with a billet bundler cradle this week, took it right up to the stumps, already forwarded splittable logs out. Strapped up some round bales of all the smaller diameter stuff that messes up the life of a forwarder driver. Now have to balance them on forwarder somehow! Seemed slow process, but hopefully from now on easy to handle again.
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1st- who's buying it and what size suits their requirements. 2nd- how's it getting to them (buyer wants 2.2's, 8 wheeler hauler prefers 2.4 x 3, or 3.6 x 2, so 2.2 is light load... Who's paying haulage then?) 3rd- decide how to compromise :-/ It sure is more pleasant throwing 4m or longer on the forwarder, but not many end users want it long.
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seems like a few of us are looking for same thing here, and as tomc14 says it's tad frustrating when they're all high mileage rust buckets and still got high price. here's what we need: 4x4 1.2t to 1.5t payload tipper good turning circle minimal chassis and bulkhead rust acceptable mileage (less than 140,000?!) fuel efficient single cab with 3 seats affordable basic build doesn't seem to be a vehicle in the UK that fits this bill. 3 1/2 ton landy gets close. pickups too low payload. transit etc 2wd. mog is bit bulky and overkill. japan has huge range of 4wd tippers over there, only see 2wd variants here. if it weren't for the mud in the woods and the snow and ice on the busiest log del days, i'd be going for a flat fronted builders tipper from japan. sadly, their yen is very high at the moment so expensive to import a 4x4 right now.
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same here as Windfall. I've got 4 tubs of filla lined up ready to make the back end look presentable for MOT later this week. '88 hilux with 250,000 miles. had it ~16 years now. how far do you push such a good thing? could spend a week cobbling together a tipper that probably takes it over it's GVW when empty. anyone know where to get an overhaul for a transmission on such an old hilux, if it wears out? we've been looking for a tidy landy 130 300tdi, can't find one i trust yet. 3.5ton GVW... dreading it!
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hi there pro bros. did you find out any more? i've been thinking of a hyd saw too, for milling. they come up as new concrete saws on google, but the older ones ... sure i used to see them all the time at farm auctions. anyone got an old hydrasaw or 2? i found out today that they had husky mounts, so in theory could go to a 42" bar. don't know any more than that. oh and the oil to the bar was bled off the hyd feed. which might not be very good if you're doing a lot in one place. cheers.
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interesting idea. would this cut down the dust and help keep it out of the filter too?! the small spray nozzle fitted to cut-off saws (for cutting concrete etc), if you had a hose connection would this spray angled at the chain do any good? anything to speed the cut and keep things cool. will have a go myself...
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very impressive! quite like the look of the iveco... esp with the roof gun, could find a use for that!
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hello rod, jas wilsons at dalbeatie dumfries sometimes have sets of bunks. surprised you haven't welded your own box sockets on and use some chunky box sections, or get your local fabricators to quote you? all the best
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late as usual... we are currently priced: for hilux single cab pickup, this has level load volume of 1m3; for log burners £70 (all hardwoods, seasoned as billet, choice of cut lengths) for open fire £80 (selected hardwoods, ie chunkier billets chosen, no spitters) slight discount offered for trailer loads 2 or 3m3. we deliver to couple of places where they ask us to chuck logs into builders bags, they look like a standard 1 tonne sand sack. surprised to find that our 1m3 load fills two of these bags to overfilling. though i appreciate the settle effect, this happens to any load, even the hilux with ply sides and definately the trailer which has steel sides- no stretch, but sure does settle on rough roads!
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Riko saw bench with hydraulic conveyor, Any good???
Logan replied to Cookie's topic in Firewood forum
hello cookie, sorry missed your post, we use a riko 700 with conveyor, it is fine. we pasted some waxoil here and there when new 1 year ago, it's worked well. also we got spare blade so we can swap and send for sharpen, about ~100m3 per sharpen, maybe bit more. we liked the way the cradle is loaded easily, but are trying to keep our digits- coz it's easy to pass your hand by the blade on the last bit... seems like a fair machine for the price. we're happy with it. -
on Stihl models, are the dependant idle carbs less common generally?
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hello there arbwork, i've just fitted a pressure limiting valve on the line yesterday and it seems a compromise- i've got it set so it helps brake when loaded, can hear and feel trailer braking and no lockup; but when empty still locks right up. when i backed pressure right off it stopped skidding when empty but didn't seem to be braking either! perhaps i should fit a ball valve so i can just turn it off when empty.... coz unplugging it several times a day leaves back end slick with oil. my hyd man said put needle valve in as well, reduce the flow speed, but i can't see how that'd help? is my pressure valve same as your limiting valve? all the best.
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yeah, do you mean the adjusters on the drum? first thing when we bought it was jack it up and check them. pretty basic brakes on these. no load sensing valve. very basic drum brakes- shoes, a cam to activate the shoes, and a hydraulic ram. that's it! no, the problem is when you put your foot on tractor brakes, and wham! those wheels are smoking!
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did you order those part no's yet mr i'jack for the 361 set of teeth?
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has anyone else had the problem of instant locking brakes on their botex trailer? ours is a euro 11000 on a valtra 6550, and we've been disconnecting the hose when empty, and trying not to use the brakes when loaded and connected- for a year now(!). just melts the tyres off. so today had an adjustable pressure valve plumbed inline, has stopped the skidding but not sure how much braking is happening now. did anyone else have this situation and find a way of improving it? needle valve as well to reduce flow? many thanks.
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ha! yes, that has some truth to it! i asked why it would be different and there was speculation that the powerhead's seen some rearranging, hence slightly altering balance. i guess i'll have to try it to find out. the 200 does seem to have been a good saw. and i know i kicked myself that i never picked up a new 440 while they were still for sale. back to that thing about change, hey...?!
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who is dealer for those winches? cheers
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User Experience ofCat d4 /d6 for timber extraction
Logan replied to cessna's topic in Large equipment
that looks nasty, mike... -
apparently they sit more level with a 12 and drop forward a bit with the 14?
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hello steve, how about balance? your's with the 14"?
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Another benefit is the 201 actually works out cheaper than 200! 201t all the way for me! hey billy, just when a decision had been reached! how is it cheaper? seems like 201 is £30 more to buy? all the best.
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at the end of the day a saw is a tool. there's nothing wrong with modifying a tool to do the job better. so if you're using a small saw to knock the twigs off a bunch of pines, then take off the dog if you get along better without. if you're trudging around a rainy overstood coppice plot trimming the stumps off 800 ugly little so and so's, then maybe you'd want all the leverage you can get. most of stihl's pro saws have double doggies on the parts list to suit each saw. you just have to ask for them! sometimes i've put the side cover off the 660 onto the 260, that must be really offensive!! but it was lightweight, saved fuel, and cut some quite buttressed small silver birch and hazel stumps down nicely. but to be fair, next time i just lumped the 660 all over the show. 18" bar!!
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opportune thread. i'm in the same situation= buy new 200 or 201. have heard say that the balance has been altered a little, so on the 201 a 14" bar makes the nose drop a little. the 200 is proven; and it seems they're selling both saws for now.
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well, ... that's that then! there must be a parallel universe where dogs (single (either inside of bar or outside) or double) work on a saw of any size, cc, thickness if bark, and all that good stuff. and i must have been living there for the last 20 years or so! i gotta wonder that those of you that are so strongly against these things must have well developed gut muscles from daily dragging the saw in a parallel way through all those trees. i mean, i even use the dawgs on the topping saw! how lazy is that?!
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great looking machine and clean crane. stephen, we've been thinking about which winch to put on back of 6550 with roof crane. interested to know what this werner front winch is, would you suggest using it to help pull tractor up a slope, or as a skidding winch, or both? i haven't seen a front winch, wonder if they have similar drum capacity as a rear pto winch. many thanks.
