wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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I'm rebuilding an Echo 330evl at the moment. I dont spose anyone knows a source for oil and fuel caps? I am gonna check with the greek for rings if I can save this P&C. Yes, gonna port it, of course, but don't expect a screamer. I gotta find some compression for it.
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It rarely gets dry enough in the UK or Ireland to necessitate a spark arrester on a chainsaw. I have ran chainsaws without arresters in the Sierra Nevada mountains in 40* weather with near 0% humidity without ever catching all those pine needles on fire. I was with a fire crew, so wasn't too worried if I had to put something out. Premium fuel will usually give less energy than more unless you have the compression and timing advance to necessitate it as it burns slower and is more difficult to ignite. My last 'stock appearing race' chainsaw had over 225 psi and ran fine on 94 octane fuel without detonation. It didn't detonate on 94ron until it hit 245 psi.
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I'd port my 372, but I'm not too worried about the extra noise.
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Ah yeah. I like the sound of a ported 660. OK, I like the sound of most things ported, especially bikes.
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It is an accident involving a chainsaw reported to OSHA. So it would be a work-related chainsaw injury, as these must be reported. From OSHA's page: Injuries include cases such as, but not limited to, a cut, fracture, sprain, or amputation. Carpel tunnel, et al, would be reported as Illnesses related to work.
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Sometimes it's easier to first put the piston in the cylinder and then mount it to the chassis/rod. I do this often with dual ring set ups on huskies and some Stihls where I don't have to mount the carb bracket first.
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The intake port on my 361 is almost perfectly square. Most Stihl's end up that way.
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https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/logger/chain_saw/saw_injuries.html
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I knew a woman that put wiper fluid in her husbands diesel engine. It got her about 5-10 miles from home in 40* weather before it blew a rod out the bottom of the block. What came out looked exactly like a chocolate milkshake. I doubt milkshake lubricates very well...
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Ah. I was giving out a bit there myself. It is almost difficult for a race bike to seize using castor based racing oils - they create a very strong coating on the cylinder and piston that also works as a lubricant. The harder they are ran, the tougher the coating. The bikes are then torn down and rebuilt before the next race before the deposits become an issue. This is an option you really don't have with a work saw. I've ran some Castor in race saws, but not in a work saw. It does smell lovely, though. I would rather not have to rebuild my chainsaw after a short while in use. So, I avoid castor-based synthetics that are popular with the race bike crowd. Since this is a bike oil, I was curious whether it might have some castor. The labeling is virtually non-existant on the sample I was given.
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Just so we're clear, "having a bike that is falling apart" AKA "I shouldn't care about the state of my saw" is your answer? I mostly want to make sure this is a real thing, that it doesn't stink of ass when it burns, and folks have used it without ash or carbon issues. What a bottle says and what a bottle does can be two different things. If it isn't castor based, etc. And, most importantly, I have never heard of this stuff, and it has a silly name. So I was a bit skeptical. This is the sort of saw I will be using this stuff in, if we want to talk about pushing our machines: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyxorZEKTNA]Ported 2165 with 77cc big bore kit in Beech - YouTube[/ame]
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It's also more than 90% vegetable/rapeseed oil. I pay .50 - .89 cent a litre for rapeseed oil here in Ireland, and use it as my only source of bar oil.
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The girlfriend gave me a bottle of carlube fully synthetic 2t oil. Has any one used this stuff? JASO FC rated, so not the FD rating I usually see on full synth...
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Removing the baffle goes a long way to preventing problems. It allows the exhaust to flow straight towards the front port.
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Judging by his avatar, he is REALLY happy about it!
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Doubtful, but I'd go toe to toe with a 461 if I got to modify my chain... Here's the 2165 with a 77cc ported kit on it in the same wood for comparison - similar compression, too, but much lower rakers on a well worn chain. I'm swearing at the start because I can not start the thing with my left hand without the decomp on due to the compression: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyxorZEKTNA]Ported 2165 with 77cc big bore kit in Beech - YouTube[/ame]
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Trying sumfin new. Instead of putting bank into a lightweight 24" Sugi(which is well over a 100 Euro or so by the time it lands on my shores), I went with a 60 Euro delivered 25" Rollomatic E. It weighs nearly what a Sugi lightweight does. It won't last quite as long, but I still usually get a few years out of them. Here she is on the 361R, 84DL 75JGX full skip Oregon chain. Oiler isn't even turned up yet and she still oils well(old style oiler holes as this is a NOS Rollo E - '5321' series, I think). I still need to replace the impulse line as this one is set up for the old 044 carb she used to wear, so not as responsive as I would like out of this size ported saw. I found with the 044 carb there was not much difference in power on the typical bars and RPM's I use a saw with, only a difference in fuel MS361 ported in Beech with 25" bar - YouTube
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Someone said sumfin about only using a 16" bar on their MS361. To each their own, but I just wanna cut wood, not concrete.
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Does leaving the decomp off make any difference for cold starts?
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That 30 year old monster I put up has better AV than an MS660 and has more power stock with less cubes ... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bn3I8Q2W_gI]McCulloch PM800 28" Bar - YouTube[/ame] Ugh, what idiot makes sideways videos.... sigh
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Late 80's were good to me/
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Yes, they do:
