wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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Couldn't tell ya, bud. I've never done any metrics on either. Personally, I would go with a 560 and an MM if I had to get a new saw.
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Mitch has got it goin on:
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The 365 has a bigger bore, stroke, and carb. With an MM, it should pull 3/8 chain at .045" rakers, on an 18" bar with an 8 pin rim effortlessly through softwoods. The 550 would be hard-pressed to compete. But, it would be a lot lighter...14lbs vs 11.4 or so. Having said that, even mild porting will bring that 365 into a completely different realm.
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I'll just leave this here...
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Just add another meal and I would say you're sorted:
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Ah. Since I saw only the 4500 on the web sites here, I made the assumption it was the current model.
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It is a rebadged Zenoah/Redmax GZ 4300(which, btw, is an older model, to boot. Zenoah are now on the GZ 4500). It is a decent saw, but I wouldn't pay Husky prices if the Zenoah price is less...: In that form factor, in that market, I would prefer the Shindaiwa 452S(£376 delivered to your doorstep by R&T). Slightly heavier, but better built, and can be found in a 50CC version in the ECHO 500P.
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I use rapeseed oil. It's what's in the bio-oil Stihl and Husky sell. It is usually a tad thinner than usual bar oil, so I turn the oiler up on the saws to good effect. It works fine on my 25" stihl bar with the more open old style oil passages. Cost considerably less and is much more quickly degradable than mineral oil.
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I hope not.
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Mitch is a good man. I learned a lot about Echo and Shindaiwa from him.
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If you can find them, GB make excellent bars in the A041 mount:
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I don't think Husky makes anything like the MS261. I suppose you could get a 550 and then add 8 ounces of lead and run it pig rich.
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I've had to use a knackered 444!
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In 041 mounts?
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The side plates inside the clutch cover block the oil from coming out on the 041 mounts(the bottom hole fits the adjuster while the top one oils). Also - Oregon/Husqvarna, unless you got a GB made for Husky bar, Oregon makes all Husqvarna chainsaw bars.
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An 036 won't have a rev limiter unless that coil has been replaced with one. If you are going to stump with it, I would tune her thick at 13,300 or so and then bring her back to mid to high 13's if she four strokes there for ground work with that 24" bar.
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You know - jis sayin'...
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And before you put it back together, grind about 1mm off the bottom of the intake port, then enlarge your muffler opening
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Octane rating is a fuel's ability to resist detonation. If you have a high compression engine, especially one capable of modifying it's timing advance on the fly, it makes a difference. If you have a chainsaw, you will be wasting money. I run a ported MS361 most days with over 210psi compression and advanced timing, roughly 50psi more than many factory chainsaws come equipped as, and I run standard 95 octane pump RON/92 AKI at 40:1 ratio all day long, with a 25" bar, even stumping, without issues. I am curious to see how you feel about a 24" bar on that 036 after some use.
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If you put that 036 into a stump with a 30" B&C on it, it will burn that bar and possibly the bearings out in short order because the oiler will not handle it. It might do with some conifer trimming if you need the reach, but not for stumps. Even in the states we don't put more than a 24" on a muffler modded 036 for anything aside for felling and limbing conifers. I run a 25" on my ported 361 with a 460R oiler on it, and I was pushing it pretty hard the other day stumping a beech. I couldn't imagine doing that with a standard 036.
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What mix is he running?
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AS has been nose diving lately. I am sure ST has more time to spend here nowadays... And now we have windthrown, another AS member...
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Check that the intake boot is a rubber tube with o-ring attached to the cylinder vs bolted.
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Never open the keyway. First - buy a woodruff key from your nearest stihl dealer if this is the first time you've done this. Then, remove the flywheel, then the woodruff key on the saw. Mark it carefully at 1/4 the width. Grind that off. Replace it in the keyway, rotate the Flywheel snug against it, CCW. Then go cut and see how she does. On a 200T and a 201T, your largest returns will be in exhaust mods and ignition timing. Be sure to tune her right. With a 200t, you should own a tachometer as they scream.
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Polish that exhaust port a bit and don't forget to bevel the edges well. If it were mine, I would advance the timing 25% of the key.
