Oak is what I needed cutting to clear some room, sorry I didn't realise it was the worst wood for my test. However if the chain gets griddle hot on oak, the whole saw ain't much use to me.
I'm still chuffed, in fact I've learnt a lot more about chainsaws than I previously knew having spent hours on every Internet forum in the world. Plus the numerous strip downs I've performed.
It's a brand new saw with a brand new chain in a brand new bar, all Stihl 3/8 0.62 and as supplied by Stihl main dealer. No bad matching, sharpening or wear, thanks anyway. No splits in brand new oil pipe either.
This has been checked. My thoughts are, bent bar, one of the bar studs being loose causing a gap, or hole on bar too small for the Makita oil to flow through freely.
Mate I appreciate it, I'll take you up on that if I can't break the back of it myself, I've got a plan, read below my man...
Bar and chain were brand spanker and have overheated from scratch, cleaned the living daylights out of them with brake cleaner, cardboard and all manner of implements.
Everything has been cleaned back to 'new saw' standards in my 30 minute old saw at least 4 times now.
Ok, here's where I'm taking this next:
Being an engineer of sorts I'm thinking one of these things is wrong:
Either the bar is no mating to the surface of the saw body as suggested above.
If this is the case I need to check stud tension and trueness, although being brand new, the latter shouldn't be a factor.
Or, the hole is too small in the bar (common reports of this on other forums) and needs opening up.
Or, the Makita oil I've filled it with is too damn thick and goopy to work with this bar amd chain combo.
Going forward, I'll check the stud tightness, if that's not an issue, I'll drain the Makita oil and flush with 2 stroke mix, then refill with a litre oil like veg oil or 5w30 motor oil and try again.
If all these show no improvement I'll drill the bar hole out and see where we go.
Then there are loaned bars, new bars, dime bars, and happy hour bars all to help me .