difflock
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Everything posted by difflock
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Harsh is/was the best known cantilever design. Claimed to prevent the tipped bodywork twisting. My only comment on those photos as posted is that in either case the ram is very far back. To get a steeper tipping angle I appreciate. But putting absolutly tremendous strains on the bodywork and tipping mechanism. A longer, thinner ram furthur forward would achieve the same with much less stress. But harder to house within the confines of a van type chassis.
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The weld failure in a chipper is most likely due to vibration induced metal fatigue. Which I know nowt about. Cept probably about thermal stresses getting induced and trapped, or choice of rod and welding techique, pre-heating etc. Or could simply be too much welding causing excess heat, which is tempering the steel. But I dont know. Consult v12Cat (was it?) on the Britishfarming forum. There were some very clearly explained absolutely informative posts. Though an absolute wealth of very very useful knowledgable posts were lost when the site was hacked.
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I am puzzled at the apparent inability of a wee cheap SIP stick welder running off a 13 Amp plug to weld heavy sections. I bought a wee SIP second hand for 50 or 60 quid. Cos back then invertors were the high hundreds. I have welded up to 6mm plate, easily. Even welded the end back on the hydraulic top link ram a good few years ago.(will photo and post) and it is still holding, doing as ignorant work as the 84HP 4WD DB1490 is capable of. Including Mole ploughing and winching Stick to a short mains lead. Short welding leads as well. use a greater number of finer rods, with multiple passes. Grind out the join in thicker section. All basic common sense (to a self taught farmers Son stuff) Regards Marcus Ps That "winch JIB/pully housing" as photoed above, is easily stick weldable with a stick welder off a 13 Amp plug. I still got the origional 13 Amp fuse in my Plug btw. imhe
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krpan riko posch et al
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A whole lot cheaper than a 360. Plus can travel fast under its own steam to the remote site/multiple sites. Plus easily and efficently transports rock to the disposal site. Plus one can fabricate ones own in a winter workshop project. Whats not to like.
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Cut to whatever length is desired and "cleave" or split to desired section. Not saw. Seal ends and season. I prefer to use saplings, even if growing from a stump, of approx the right size. Season with the bark on for a few years, and use as necessary. Reshafted a spade recently, not broke it yet. Not yet rehelved an Axe, mostly hammers, sledges and stuff. But quite often re-use discarded broken long-tail shovel shafts for these duties. m
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Apologies if I was misunderstood. I simply wondered (from a laypersons perspective) why a tree that lent much Amenity value to a quiet residental street was being removed
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Regardless of the obviously inept tree cutting performance. Why was the healthy young tree being felled at all? Which probably has a bearing on the employment of non-professionals!
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Panasonic used to be good. Nothing good is ever cheap. But expensive kit is not necessarily good. PS The joiner at work was demoing his newest impact driver. WoW! Proper impressive.
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A "no-brainer" for the hire market. or grant funded "wanna-be's" Or the National Trust
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10KN is 1tonne line pull, yes? 1N=1kg *9.81ms2 (accl of gravity) 10,000/10 = 1000kg = 1tonne? =quite limited but a nice toy perfect for moss too!
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I feel a winter project gestating. I also imagine a fire blanket would be a good "bodge" instead of that complicated iris. Watch out for the white smoke.
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Billy, Spot on with your assessment. Ditto Eggs. Re the morgage "trap" We were horrified at the notion of lumbering ourselves with 25 years debt. Cos with a pocket calculator we were able to work out what we were paying for the priveledge. So we worked double jobs, paying PAYE tax on both in each case. Saved, ran only one rough car that I maintained. Bought second hand furniture, etc. But still went on 3 week camping hols to Europe each year. Then in 1987, bought a small timber frame (and unpopular in NI) house for cash. Lived in it while still holding down 2 jobs each, then bought a good developer built home in 1990 (though back then houses in ni were relatively undervalued) Mostly our forward progress has been about NOT borrowing money, because we could see that was the road to eternal debt. regards, marcus
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read the plate. subtract the second largest number (veh permitted weight) from the largest number( gross train weight, ie incl trailer) result is the weight of trailer allowed. ie 5500-3500=2000kg PS What was involved in the test?
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However a factor which most people are ignoring is the ever-upward sprial ( helix actually) of standards of housing. i.e. substantially larger in sq footage/ plus lived in by many fewer persons (compared to the 50's or 60's) plus technically much more sosphistaced, therefore more expensive to build. Therefore they must be more expensive in relation to average wages, when inflation adjusted. I dont believe that houses have been subject to the same production efficiences as most consumer goods, therefore the tradesmens wages will always factor large. regards Marcus
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A very tidy undertaking. Declare it as a Summer house. But then rent it out for the necessary years, to qualify as a dwelling. Then rip it down and replace it with a real dwelling. Planning permission being gained "by the back door" A "cunning plan" if ever I saw one. Regards, Marcus PS Alex M There other options re housing, other than renting or buying crap/living with a mortgage. Like live thrifty, save from very average earnings, start small/humble with minimal borrowing, and work ones way up, sans, new cars, fancy holidays and crap new furniture. And avoid mortgages like the plague. Then at 35 or 40 one can start to enjoy the "good life"
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Or since most on here are selling, and will price their product to reflect their entirely reasonable need to make a profit (i.e. the same profit across their product range) The customer will be the one to carry the £10.00 surcharge. Therefore the savvy customer will prefer hardwood. Cos it is better heating value per unit cost. Simples.
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Since I switched to exclusively Fir/Pine/Conifer about 8 years ago. (Once I had cleared the Birch off the Roddens to gain access) Absolutly no issues, OK a bit more volume to transport to the stove, but it burns hot and clean. The resin on the hands is bytimes a trifle annoying. and Definately no issues with the flue "tarring" marcus
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not sure about that as, at least from any promo material i have seen for either logs of firewood equipment. It is Birch birch birch birch birch an more birch
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Massey furgeson 168 4x4, whats it worth and where to sell?
difflock replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Large equipment
It could be an advert in "Classic Tractor" magazine would be worth a punt, with a sensible/highish price but inviting offers. Then enter it in Cheffins classic auction if unsuccessful. A lot of Irish Classic Tractor readers and we tend to pay silly prices for the old Masseys. marcus -
BUT I am not for towing on the Highway. Gerrr!
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Bollocks! The 30" :thumbup:bandwheels were my main reason for being attracted to the LM15 Seriously:thumbdown: PS On a more serious note, I know of 2 local NI engineering companies who each employ a degree educated Engineer, on "container stuffing" (i) In respect of the optimium way of packing multiples of the same item. (ii) The best mix of mixed items for each container and (iii) Subtle but significent engineering design and construction "tweeks" so as to facilitate optimium container utilization. Simply because for any sizable Nothern Ireland based company it is a case of "export or die" cheers marcus
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£1.000=$1.634 Is that not quite an attrative exchange rate? m i.e. Get em ordered. PS Can one not get the LM15 without the wheels?, or does the axle unbolt for shipping?
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Buy once, buy right, buy Morso. Or indeed Clearview, or other correctly engineered and constructed brand.
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Whats the difference between a Farmer and a terrorist? One can neogotiate with a terrorist.
