spudulike

Also check the compression is good when hot. Does the saw start OK if left for an hour?

Sounds like the condensate from the Aircon isn't draining correctly...check the outlets the water comes out of.

130 on the first pull is damn good, 70-100 is much more common so that is all fine. I would try to use a piece of printer paper to set the coil to flywheel gap. I had a 460 once that was exactly like yours and just had a larger coil to flywheel gap than was normal. This is worth a look at. Other than that, has the carb low screw been set correctly? Around 1.25 turns out should ensure it is workable...as long as the limit cap isn't on, if it is, just wind it out fully. I always check everything and if it all fails, it has to be the coil. Throwing £70 at a coil at the first stage isn't in my work ethic. BTW, aftermarket coils are pretty crap at best - best get an OEM one and second hand if possible.

The gasket often has an overhang like your pics show, the screws can come loose, I had a massive air leak once on an old 480CD like that. You can see if the screws are loose and if not, loosen them to see if you can push the gasket back up and clamp it again...worth trying before doing a permanent repair. You will see a section of gasket appear from the case join under the muffler if it is pushed upwards from the tank or it may just scrunch up😖

It looks like it. If time is not an issue, there may be some milage in loosening up the case screws, and seeing if you can push the gasket up a little and then clamp it up again. I have done this on the earlier 560xp and managed to fix a leak for not too much£££ It may work but if ADW is doing it for two hours labour, rip his arm off....I am thinking about subbing my Husqvarna work out to him😉

I guess I must just be a slow worker, cleaning the saw and removing all the covers, muffler, cylinder, carb, air filter, bottom plate under the carb, clutch and drum, flywheel, splitting the engine from the fuel tank, splitting the engine, cleaning the old gasket from both halves of the casing, possible the crank may pull a bearing out.....reassembly, pressure and vacuum check, more reassembly, run up and tach tune if normal carb or test in wood if AT....a for two hours, circa £100...bargain in my eyes. Most dealers wouldn't bother. Years ago I sent a local guy to the local big dealership to get his engine split and I didn't have splitters back then. I had the impression they would have the correct kit.....he came back and said the screws came out and the big copper mallet was used on the crankshaft😱and ...it was the first engine he had split....it sort of realigns your thoughts!

You may find the screws have just come loose so try tightening them up or take the cap off and shine a torch in to the tank and see if the gasket has dropped in to the tank cavity. If the gasket has been pulled in, it will probably need splitting and a new gasket to be fitted. 2 hrs seems a good quote from ADW, get him to do it!

That is because I have a pride in my finished product. I don't do it because I like doing it!

Cleaning chainsaws, that would be a first for most!!!

The first thing I would do is check the compression cold then hot. You need at least 150 cold, more is good and around 130 hot is borderline. A visual through the exhaust port will tell you if you have a fried piston You can pull the saw over slowly and it should feel pretty punchy and springy as the engine is pulled over top dead center. If this is OK, try bending the end electrode off an old spark plug and then test the spark in subdued light and pull it over hard. You should be able to get a spark with this modified plug hot and cold. The carb gauze strainer may be partially blocked, take it out and look at it against a bright light using a magnifying glass. The carb l screw may be set lean, this can cause starting issues. Check the pump diaphragm small sealing flaps, these can get perforated by the holes underneath them. Check the metering diaphragm is still flexible and the metering arm is level with the sealing part of the carb body. These carbs have accelerator pumps and it is always worth fitting new on a service. Usual symptoms of a bad pump are uneven idle.

13500 is about right.

Linen absorbs more moisture than most fabrics making it one of the best for hot weather.

Dirty air filter, too much oil or running rich!

In my book it is pretty sad that this nest has been destroyed. I have never seen a Goshawk in the wild and with this sort of action, it is unlikely I will any time soon. £100.....really!!

I always find a play on words is a dry and intelligent humour

We all know it is an outdoor swimming pool!!

Like I said in the toxic covid threads, time will tell on this one but the fact Ethanol is Hygroscopic doesn't fill me with confidence that aluminium carb housings will like it or fuel lines and diaphragms will fair any better.

Not me but yes, that will work - the plastic tube affair!

I got a pair of these small Kowa 8X25 bins. Kowa tend to make a lot of high end optics and their spotting scopes are pretty damn good. These budget binoculars impressed from day one, small enough for the pocket, very bright and clear optics and the acid test is the speed you can focus them on to the target. My wife liked them so much, having got through three pairs she disliked or destroyed, she purchased a pair from the guys below:- Kowa 8x25 SV DCF | Buy Online at CleySpy WWW.CLEYSPY.CO.UK The quality Kowa 8x25 SV DCF is available from CleySpy with a wide range of accessories (other filter)- buy online at fantastic prices

I have seen the oil pump come loose in the past. This tends to take out the oil pinion and stop the flow of oil. Worth making sure the oiler is functioning as it should and the locating screws are tight.

The valves usually benefit from a re gap every now and then. Usual sign it needs doing is that the engine feels to have loads of compression as the bad valve adjustment knocks out the automatic decompressor and you can feel it on the starter. A bit of backfiring can also happen! Once the tappets are done, the engine feels like the compression is very low but starting will be easier. If the tappets are bad they can be a pain to start. Holding the throttle fully open on these power heads can make starting easier if it is being reluctant. Other than that, carb accelerator pump if the motor bogs straight off throttle.

You can give L&S a bell, they will put a call in to Newton Aycliffe and supply if it is available in the UK otherwise you will need to purchase separate parts. You can also try Mark Skyland on here if you PM him, see what comes back!

Sounds like a good result and hats off for offering more, it goes a long way and means a lot when someone values your time and effort in fixing something that can't have been easy.

Possibly old engine oil, flush and fill with fresh decent chain oil.

It is the "ICE" signs you see on open stretches of road, I think there is one near Peterborough on the A1m....in the middle of summer it doesn't quite work...but there again, this year