spudulike

Felco:thumbup: Went through this a couple of years ago, buy something that will last years and you can get spares for...No 2s if you are wondering!

I feel like a marmite sandwich after all this "IMO":thumbup:

Guess there are two types of people, those who think..."I wonder if I ......what would happen" and those that think..."Good, it is running, that will do..." Many find the lighter ported, faster saw saves time, fatigue on the body and enjoy the faster performance, others are happy to use the saw as it was manufactured. The manufacturers are held back by primarily the EPA and noise laws so saws have to push out clean exhaust and no more than circa 114dba, this makes the final design somewhat limited and stifled. In the old bike days, reeds were Stan Stephens or Boyesen, expansions were Allspeeds or Micron, the same thing happening, mods to motorbikes and much faster performance was born by many a boy racer:thumbup: Personally I got bored with returning saws back to working as they came out of the box and wondered what a 346XP would go like if I ..........the rest is history, 20 years in a production environment working big machines makes a difference, every cycle of a machine takes time, make the process faster and the machine makes more money and uses less labout time, less shift work etc....all the same at the end of the day!

My advice - seek medication or some sort of psychiatric help, you obviously have lost the plot, do you find yourself drawn to mobillity shops, parker knowl recliners? Do Stannah stair lifts offer opportunities and benefits, are you now watching Songs of Praise and yearning for Last of the Summer Wine? I pity your wife, I wear the socks and sandals in the confines of our house to wind the wife up but never outside:lol:

Lucky it didn't take out the rod, at least it is repairable!

I always put a bit of paper cloth down between the crank lobes and spin it round to clear any debris and puddled fuel/oil from the bottom of the crankcase before re-assembly - not a nice result but glad it wasn't a customers!

One mans junk is another mans gold, believe me, I know.....sold some old stuff destined for the dump on ebay before now:thumbup: Sure Mr Elfin has a use for th eold English metal:thumbup:

He does bake a damn good cake, his Christmas cake was stonking, the last fruit cake could have done with less baking but was still pretty good....Martin, if you are reading, time to get a lump of cake down to me:thumbup: I did land him up with a load of milling he wasn't too sure about recently though:blushing:

Cheers Bob, yup, same problem, picked up a saw with a bent crank and the top end gone through the plating, got a decent top end and was hoping to find an OEM crank but good to know the aftermarket ones are OK. Was going to strip it but was talked in to fixing it by my mate Burrell:001_rolleyes: ........sorry, ex mate

Yeah, clipons, rear sets, small fairing......and some engine work!

Anyone got a 066/MS660/MS650 crank in working order out there? It must be the 10mm flywheel end type though! Got a saw that needs a bit of TLC and will recompense in greenbacks or servicing in return:thumbup:

And theres me thinking you had purchased a Cossack Motorcycle Combination for you and the better half:lol: Is tha an MZ I se before me? I remember those in the old days - smelly old two strokes with exhausts like the one of a stove:001_tt2: Get a cheap expansion and slap it on, a bit of porting, if it has reeds then get those sorted and it should go a bit better - good luck with the Eastern Bloc Beast:thumbup:

Don't blame me:blushing:

The differences between the MS200T and 020T are: - 1) Fuel and oil caps - the tanks and crankcase have different cap connectors - the 020T threaded and the MS200t the flippy cap mechanism. 2) Carb on the 020 has the H&L screw closer together and no accelerator pump 3) The cylinder on the 020T has a single transfer each side of the cylinder, on the MS200T, it is split in two to avoid pressure stacking of fuel/air vapour. 4)Air box has an 020T logo and recoil cover has a oblong and not round decal. 5) The fuel tank breathers varied from a fibre insert, to a plug in one and then to a dual fuel line type on MS200Ts I think that is about it, all parts are interchangeable including the cylinder as stroke and piston are the same on both machines. The split transfer gives the MS200T a bit more zip on pickup!

Funny that, I got 6 months of tennis elbow from a McCulloch strimmer once - get better soon:thumbup:

I was pleased with them, the 357XPs are tried and tested, the 254Xp were first time but a fair bit on the table and it shows in the way the saw now picks up, kind of caught me out when it picked up so fast when I first fired it up - wasn't quite expecting that:thumbup: Will box them up and settle up over the weekend Tom. Cheers

Here we go, the big shoot out, in the red corner, a Husqvarna 357XP - ported using the normal methods listed earlier in this thread, in the blue corner, a Husqvarna 254XP giving up 5cc and a lot of age. Standard 357XP - 4.4HP, Standard 254XP - 3.9HP....just remember, my ported 357XPs keep up with the much later 560XPs:thumbup:............................... First vid cutting old seasoned oak, the second cutting dry poplar - the 254XP is just slower than the 357XP...by a half second! And yes, I know,,,they are PPE shorts:lol: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixP6tmwp5lY]Ported Husqvarna 357XP and 254XP cutting Oak - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPEPuEftDiM]Ported Husqvarna 357XP and 254XP cutting Poplar - YouTube[/ame]

Well, I am now there with the ported 357XP and 254 XP....anyone want to see how they compare for cutting speed?

Sounds like you are already there, either the metal part that fits to the spark plug is now exposed or the metal connector has been pulled out of the HT wire and if you get close to it, you get HT leakage giving a ZAP:thumbdown: Easy enough to fit a new one, go the other way through the HT cable with the spur on the connector and a little oil helps pulling the metal connector through the rubber cap.

Ahhh - nice one dad - does he want it ported, reckon I could get those batteries lasting longer:001_rolleyes:

Well, you can tell by the way I use my walk, I'm a Ryobi man, no time to talk. Oiler knackered and bar warm. Its been kicked around since it was bought. or Comin' to ya on a dusty road Good logs I got a truck load And when you service it you got something So don't worry cause I'm coming I'm a Ryobi man I'm a Ryobi man

Yup, thats the MS260 that was badly seized, gave the cylinder a good clean and a decent quality piston and was amazed to get 190psi out of it. Seemed to run pretty well and sounds like it has bedded in well, always good to get good feedback on saws I have done this sort of work on. Your old man (Tim) did work on my parents place back in the 80s:thumbup: Got to know Matty pretty well now - nice bloke!

No Rich, I thought you were a Husqvarna man:lol:

The drop of compression when warm is normal and 150psi cold is also pretty normal for a used saw. 150psi cold and fuelled is a pretty standard reading. The symptoms on not revving out sound like an air leak that is leaning down the saw too much so it can't rev out - possible manifold or even a scored piston - it is possible to get good compression on a lightly seized piston. The symptoms of holding on to revs when the throttle is closed sound like a crank seal letting air when the crank case is under vacuum - increased when the throttle is closed! the extra air tends to make the saw hold on to the revs when it should snap down to idle. Don't change anything - you have three toppers - swap a good carb and try again, prove it is either the carb or something else on the saw before spending out further on it.

Agree Barrie, had one in that was stalling on idle and generally playing up....broken clutch spring:001_rolleyes: