spudulike

V coil:thumbup:

The wife is wondering why her washing line is getting lower and her old girls walking stick is now a foot long:lol:

The tube is any steel tube that you can lay your hands on that looks about right, the brazing rod I use is a silver solder NOT lead tin but silver brazing rod with a melting point of circa 650 deg C so I can use a plimbers lamp. You will also need a flux!

That sucks:blushing:

I had a cheap set and the dies cut a rounded poor formed thread and the taps weren't much better! If you can wait, keep a look on ebay for an old set of decent brand ones when the Japanese manufacrtured some decent kit or old British ones - you can get some good sets coming up. Worth also having a set of helicoils in M5 and M4/M6 also.

Agree the Chinese ones are shyte - this is an old English term for brown pooie stuff and not the offensive modern version...honest The parts should be Tungsten Carbide and yup, Britools are damn good. You get what you pay for - reach mid 40s and this becomes blindingly obvious:thumbup:

I got an old Hilka set from the 1980s - £12 off ebay - used but in spanking condition - two taps per size bottomiing and taper - real nice deal IMO

Mmm, I'm more ways than one, I grabbed it and ran for the workshop:blushing:

I give every day but TBH, she puts up with a lot:lol:

So it was like this, I am doing up an early 066 as a project saw, I have been re-spraying parts because they are tired looking - I never usually bother but the paint was pretty bad and am doing it properly - no B&Q emulsion here:001_rolleyes: Just dried the last coat off overnight, and the wife had said she was going to be late back....I think, Great, the crankcases - an hour in the oven will harden it off luverly:lol: Fork....she comes home an hour early "whats that smell"......"what the feck is that in my oven".....you can get your own bloody meal":blushing: Whooooppppssssss:thumbdown: I think it has gone unmentioned for 24 hours, no divorce yet:001_huh:

You would be barking if you purchased the MS290, the 365 is a solid workhorse that will carry on for years, it is a pro saw that will carry a 20" for ringing up all day and the bottom end is used on the 372 so is rock solid. The MS290 is a smaller version of the MS390 and is predominantly plastic and hard to work on! Buy the 365

The mufflers on chainsaws are just small cans that try not ot restrict flow but do try to restrict noise. They use a mix of small outlet holes and baffle plates - all this restricts the flow of gasses through the engine. A muffler mod is just a very basic way of improving this flow whilst trying to not make a saw damn well deafening:blushing: Teh TZ you talk about will have had an expension pipe, this is a way of varying the power curve and torque of an engine with its exhaust. The science of the expension is exactly that, it is dependant on the engine and is then designed with a specific outlet length and diameter, length and diameter of the expansion chamber and same on the outlet pipe. The expansion allows the shock wave of the engine exhaust to bounce back on the outer wall of the expansion and bounce back in to the engine, charging it with a slight mix of exhaust and unburnt fuel/air vapour....more charge = more power:thumbup: Don't get mixed up between our compact mufflers and the racing TZs of the 1980s. On a separate note - I saw a tripple engined drag bike once based on three TZ750s - that was nine expansion pipes and sounded.....pretty damn weird:thumbup: Has anyone tried revving two saws together at the same time in unison....try it:thumbup: Pro Am 1980s starting grid comes to mind!

Another busy weekend, MS200T, big airleak, tracked it back to a broken lug and hole worn in the side of the crankcase. Degreased it and filled it with JB weld, replaced seals and impulse line, loads of holes stripped of their threads, two punctured holes in the oil tank where overly long bolts had been used. Cut small bits of thread with a cut out and screwwed them in with loctite and fitted shorter bolts - oil tank now sealed and 100% pressure and vacuum tested. 254XP in for porting - spent late afternoon blowing bubbles at me so fitted a new seal an all good with the airleak it had:lol: This seal would have gone in time and probably seized the engine - I guess it is why I get so busy on repairs - jobs done right and right first time:thumbup:

I can give it a go, I would need to check out the piston as these older Stihls can have a fair bit of slap on them and that won't be a good starting point but should be able to get more out of it - nice conventional design:thumbup:

Blimey Dave, where are you finding them - yes, without doubt:thumbup:

not driven the bar studs out but would reckon they should be knocked through to the oil tank and the holes and inner tank should be degreased than the bolts put back in with a bit of epoxy around them to seal them in - put the bar back on with the epoxy still soft and do it up to avoid them shifting later. Thats my suggestion without doing the job before - more used to screw in ones.

Not done one yet but have consulted my files and it is a strato saw - never a great sign as it cuts a lot of flow from the inlet manifold - simplest thing to do is a muffler mod and will reap the easiest gains for the least work!

Anything bar a decent going over would have been a bad call on a four month old machine. Hopefully I can get years of future service out of it:thumbup:

Bit of a bummer, I feel for you:thumbdown:

I take it the chain is sharp and the fuel mix is fresh - I would normally take the exhaust off and look at the piston for scoring and then strip and clean the carb - worth also checking the fuel tank breather is clear of dust.

Vinyl are about the best, they don't disintegrate like the others!

I've put my glasses on, I think I have noticed the slight difference:thumbup:

Is that muffler standard:001_rolleyes: