spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Not sure I get that - I don't think any other petrol powered garden kit revs as nearly as hard as a chainsaw - most kit is 3-4,000 lower!
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Not being funny but you may like to remember the chain brake handle has a safety function and you may have compromised the function of it. What I am saying is that if others use this saw - think of how you would feel if it had failed and hurt someone - think the spare part wil be under £25! Others may have their own views
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Leaf blower cuts out after 10 mins of use.
spudulike replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
You can get a drop in compression when an engine gets hot, if it starts at a low 130psi, when it is warm, it can drop to 115psi and stop it re-starting hot. Other than that it may be a tank vent, fuel issue or ignition coil - try closing the gap between the coil and the flywheel - had a MS460 that would start and die when hot - found the gap too large. It isn't always the end of the road and don't give up easily on anything:thumbup: -
If you are going to use that in your 372XP, I am not going to send if back to you:001_tt2: A saw will rev up to 15,000 - your saw will run up to 13,500 rpm. The average scooter will be much lower at around 10,000rpm The chainsaw will hit peak revs within a half a second, the scooter will build up to this speed. The oil has been designed for scooters Stihl/Husky oils have been specifically designed for saws and garden equipment. You have already had one seize on your saw - you gonna risk it again? The cylinder may not take another seize - the OEM part will be around £330:thumbdown:......not fitted:001_rolleyes:
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anything between 5 - 20 thou, with the former being on good new rings. You can normally tell when the ring gets worn as the ends becone a lot thinner than the rest of the ring. Check the bore is ok with the plating not worn through. Measure the compression - on smaller engines it can feel low but still measure up OK.
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Stihl RSC?
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The wife feared you had baked a big cup cake:lol:
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Lots already on the site about this - the oil dictates the mix and not the saw - most modern oils are 50:1!
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Had a saw in that looked like a big cupcake:001_rolleyes: 395XP, the plg had blown out and had been then it stopped again. Found that the thread had been ripped out and I now need to put an insert in, more pics to follow tomorrow!
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I ported a 346Xp cylinder some time ago for someone that wanted it done - I usually take the full saw and do the full job but here we go.... Not revving past 9500rpm:confused1: It had an air leak caused by a inlet manifold being fitted badly and the carb was far to rich - retuned to around 14,400 and it sounded a lot crisper:thumbup: Inlet manifold was re-sealed and is now 100%
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I used to do a bit of beach casting this time of year and pulled out the cod:lol: Place the side cover on, and pull the saw over lightly to mesh the pulley with the flywheel pawls - check the springs on the flywheel pawls are OK.
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Tried the one I had the backfiring on today and it revs out, idles and cuts fine - I am just putting it down to the ignition unit retarding the spark, all seems 100% now on this one. On the 365/372 x torq, looks like Husky got lazy and put two saws out with very little difference bar the power output easily obtainable by modifying the transfer blockage they put in to stifle the output:001_rolleyes: Looks like a simple mod!
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Good luck with the thread Martin, for those that don't know him, you couldn't wish for a nicer bloke - he does swear a bit though!!
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It is probably a time issue, I get lots of great ideas but never have the time to do them or they take months/years. The 066 project has been sitting there for 16 months and is now taking shape - another 6 months and I may be there:001_rolleyes:
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Nice one Barrie, good time of year to kick it off, just need the " I strapped a Fireblade engine to my mower" thread now:thumbup: Hope it gains interest, I for one have to start from base camp when working on rotary mowers - I get there in the end but it just takes time!
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It is a straight repair - seized! The key is fine, have re-adjusted the coil but reckon Husqvarna have put some serious retardation on the ignition to aid starting to the point the thing fires on the downward stroke hence the backfire - perhaps it is me pulling it over a bit faster than smaller fellas:lol:
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Thanks Wes, nice one - think the flywheel has shifted - will have to pull it and find out:thumbdown:
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I thought it was an old post:lol: Good comprehensive list - amazing what we take in and do at a glance and a bit of poking around:thumbup:
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So I am not the only on that likes a little boogie round the workshop:thumbup1:
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You need a pointy bit on the end of that T bar - so it locates in to the end of the crankcase. Nice job though:thumbup:
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Had one last week - chain wouldnt spin so he took the side cover off and couldn't get it back on again:lol: Chain brake on - asked him how he got up here with his cars handbrake on:blushing: Nice guy but not a clue!
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Just got the 372XP X-torq back together again with a new piston. I am getting backfiring on starting, not had one to do before so is this a normal occurence or is the flywheel key shot - not pulled the flywheel yet to check. I am not using the decomp to start it! The coil gap is fine
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There is a part number on the photo 1123 021 0800 which makes it a 021/023/025 series. The damage will be down to the chain brake being left on and the clutch springs being a bit shagged or the idle too high. Heat gets generated and bingo - a black mess. GK may be right in it being operated with the brake on.
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Spot on advice - it will also send a tach in to spasms!
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What additions would you like to see on Arbtalk
spudulike replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
Buff babes and beer...sorry Steve, it has been a long week - will get the thinking hat on:thumbup:
