spudulike

Fully agree with what Wes said - the aftermarket bevels are pretty suspect as are the rings (brittle) and the circlips (soft)!

Looks familiar:thumbup:

You an do the same by removing the muffler or just using a small inspetion torch shining through the plug hole - do it all the time and just as simple. It is why there are so many saws on ebay with the muffler missing - never a good sign! A reasonable idea though!

Same part - 503 62 56-01 Not too easy to find one though!

Bugger:lol: No problems:thumbup:

Yeah, but by the time they arrive - I will be retired:001_rolleyes:........or the saws will be antiques:lol: The good news is I can build these little buggers up from boxes of bits:thumbup:

You learn by experience:thumbup:

Life is never simple if you do the job 100%. If the saw has been seized, my normal action is to see if it cleans up and then, if it is OK, fit a quality piston - now here is the important bit - if it has seized, something is not right - fuel mix, old fuel, carb settings or air leak - you really need to test for these things to ensure it doesn't happen again with your replacement parts fitted. You learn from doing so whatever happens, you will have learnt useful knowledge but it is better if you get the job done right and have a working saw:thumbup: If you have any questions, ask - I speciallize on tuning 357XPs and know them inside out

Going right back to the original post - the two things that GENERALLY make a saw scrap is a seizure or crankbearings/crank issues - this is using standard dealer parts and rates. I am somewhat baffled that on the MS200t, the carb has been stripped, as has the inner top handle components. Most techs will do a compression check, take a judgement and pull the muffler if a seize is suspected - crank issues are mostly found by waggling (tech term) the crank ends for play and rotation of the crank by hand. So why were the carb and handle innards stripped:confused1: No idea - I only strip the handle if the fast idle part of the choke lever isn't functioning or the linkage is tight/sticking. IMO, the carb should have been reassembled - piss poor to leave it with the covers off:thumbdown: The other saw - why is the flywheel off - why is the saw sooooooooo stripped down - personally I can tell within minutes if a saws condition is OMG or and on from that - pulling the cylinder to check if the bore is salvageable is pretty much normal for me and that gives me all I need. Much of my work comes to me like this - and pretty much 100% goes out running:thumbup:

I use my xray eyes to inspect saws for faults and enjoy munching on a kryptonite sarnie whilst wearing my underwear over my trousers - the customers look at me strangely, not sure why:lol:

65cc is a fairly big saw for the average homeowner and that is why people probably say it is a semi pro machine but having had a few apart, I do know what you mean!

Thought we were gonna get your list again Barrie:blushing: Prey tell me kind sir...what does your service consist of:001_rolleyes:

I have used Ipostparcels - Chainsaws are not on their prohibitive list and they have an easy to use tariff system based on size and weight!

Yup - thats what Barrie meant:thumbup:

Keep us up to date with it - now you have started the story:sneaky2: Didn't see that you were in NZ - wonder what a courier would charge:001_rolleyes:

I have also added a little more since doing yours Geoff - makes for a tad more compression and a bit more torque - always progressing:thumbup:

I did offer, I am not going force you:lol: My mate always says "you can take your horse to water but you can't make it wash your car":lol: May have to catch you at the Capel Manor bash this year!

Did the tech expire halfway through the work? Pit strange taking off the diaphragm cover off the carb and leaving it off:confused1: Send if in, I will get it running well:thumbup:

Thats a safety feature - nobody would want you cutting yourself! I have had experience of the two saws and the ony thing that brought the MS201 to life was drilling the exhaust - after this was done, you could actually start leaning on the saw rather than waiting for the chain to start spinning. One I had in did have a semi seized piston so your dealer should check for similar - even drilling the exhaust on this one didn't get it fully better even though compression was reasonably good. The saws are not great IMO - I have picked up loads of work on MS200Ts - I am doing a couple for one guy that purchased two off ebay just because he refused to buy a MS201 - the first one is done - along with some tuning and its compression is right back to 180psi and the pickup is bang on decent:thumbup:

Thought they were cleaning the interiors of cars with it:blushing::lol:

Been a busy bee in that workshop haven't you - does the saw miss the extra 25psi or is it as fast still?

Check the throttle linkage isn't holding the carb open. Not sure how a broken clutch spring would cause over revving - it would usually allow one clutch shoe to contact the clutch drum making the chain run at idle or make the saw stall:confused1: A fast idle is also a sign of an air leak but check the throttle linkage first.

Hate to burst your bubble, the texts have to be specific to a chainsaw issue someone is experiencing and need to result in a fixed chainsaw. Just sending out spurious messages like - buy my double glazing and busty girls here won't cut the mustard,

Some of them need two stroke mix - they are fourstrokes bu not as you know them - typical fourstrokes have wet sumps - oil in them or an oil tank and scavanging system - Dry sump. The Stihl ones I have seen are the spawn of beelzebub and run on two mix!

Mystery over - it was Tobimax after a bout of indepth texts about ignition timing, flywheels and damaged keys:thumbup: It resulted in a working saw and a crate of beer, with thanks:thumbup1: