spudulike

I prefer the other one as you could see the cylinder was OEM!

Looks clean, the cylinder has the OEM stamp with the bore diameter on it so looks original to me. Price wise - that £150 - 200 is about right. They are nice saws to use so will be a good upgrade from your Aldi specials:thumbup:

Drill the hole a little hgher but take it easy when it goes through otherwise you will exit straight through the other side of the exhaust:blushing:

No worries bud:thumbup:

That sounds good, I don't get the chance to put much of my work to the test so all input is greatly received. The MS661 will be limited by the strato part of the saw, a mufler mod and slight internal mods may be a decent way forward. For a "money no problem" option, experimenting with turning down piston crowns/squishbands and cylinder bases are a possible option to up the compression but with autotune, you have no control over the fuel system which is always a worry:blushing: Thanks Chris for the input, all much appreciated.

Where abouts in the Southeast, If you are close to Dover, Rich may do the work, If you are North of London or want to courier it than I can oblige:thumbup: PM me if you need further info.

I use a 10mm - you run the risk of going through the wall of the muffler with a 13mm - it can be done but the 10mm is fine. You need to look at the bottom of the muffler - there is a small semicircular section on the underside by the exit part of the muffler. You need to drill the hole in the side of the muffler that lines up with this - I usually centrepunch the side and dril a pilot hole and go up in 3mm increments. If the side cover is in damn good nick, I often make the hole a little higher to avoid melting it - all part of the service - make sure all the swarf is blown out - if you do it on the machine - rev the nuts off it for a few seconds:thumbup:

Not at all - the old boy had a Triumph 2000 straight six Mk1, my elder brother a Mk2 whilst I had Minis and the younger brother Granadas - thats after the bikes so got a keen interest in all forms of motor car/bike/machines etc:thumbup:

Yes, but has it had the Rover V8 mod or are you still with the dodgy original Triumph V8:thumbup:

Perhaps we will find out one day:thumbup:

Morten is correct, the L screw controls the idle and low - mid revs - make it a bit richer. It is the H screw that ultimately controls flat out speed - on these older carbs, changing the L screw will affect the high speed running so set this once the low speed is good.

Thanks Chris, be good to see the vids, glad the first impression is good:thumbup:

I have always correctly called it a brake as that is what it does - same as the brakes on your car! The break is a lunch break or a break in the weather, your leg etc Shall we start a good grammar thread:lol:

Yup, 50:1 Fuel to oil on most decent modern oils for all machines, the oil dictates the mix and not the machine.

Have to wait and see - the chap is local so am sure will be up for a boys day out with a few favourite saws:thumbup:

There wasn't much other option, I widened it a tad but squared the lower edge to get better flow at the bottom of the stroke and the top to increase flow again. I also opened up the windows on the piston, another tweak worth doing. I should get some vids back from the owner, be good to see it in some wood and how it runs against a standard MS660.

Think we have been here before, I use a specific fluid for cleaning carbs from Allendale - you mix it with De ionised water! If it is a non heated low power unit, you could use white spirit but it can ignite if it gets too hot:blushing:

The saw is owned by one of the Stihl Timbersport team but is his own saw and not a competition saw - the ones used in competition are either standard MS660 or "Hot" saws of non standard build! I am hoping to get some figures back once he gets it back:thumbup:

Been porting a MS660 this weekend, the figures Exhaust duration - 170* Inlet Duration 158* Transfer Duration 112* ......yup - had to check this a couple of times Blowdown - 29* There are many restrictions in the MS660 - the exhaust port can't be widened by much so settled for reshaping the profile, the inlet again can't be widened by much so again reshaped it. The uppers can't be taken back by much due to the ring ends so settled to reducing the blowdown figure to 24.5* which gives a longer time the transfers are open so more fuel charge:thumbup: The lower part of the lowers had the ridge removed and blended in to the cylinder wall. The piston windows were opened and flowed plus a few changes to the muffler to get it breathing. Be interesting to hear how it performs - there are some mighty big differences in the MS660 figures to the older 066 - the exhaust port ceiling is lower giving a lower power band, the blowdown is significantly shorter on the 066 and inlet duratiion longer - all very interesting but the changes I have made should give significant gains. I also extended the exhaust outlet to stop the bendy handle issue that some have reported on this site:thumbup: The squish came out at 0.65mm so nothing much to do here so left alone.

Been fixing an MS880 that neded a new deconp valve and porting an MS660- you dont realise just how big those MS880s are until you see them next to a MS660!

two methods Position the ring ends equal distance from the pin, oil the bore, push the front part of the bore over the front part of the ring and then push the sides in and then ease the ring ends in with a flat end of a screw driver using light force and ese the cylinder down over the cylinder. Alternatively, you can make or purchase a tool that slips over the piston to compress them - http://nicholssportbikes.com/images/large_photos/N_SIL_GRN_RED_BLK_BLU_COMP.jpg Both methods will work just fine - the saw has a single ring - very easy. Check the bevels on the ports are good and pop the ring only in the bore to make sure there is slight clearance on the ring ends:thumbup:

Reckon he is half Australian:001_rolleyes:

It is running rich, the bubbling noise is heavy fourstroking and the bad idle is being caused by the build up of fuel in the crankcase not being burnt. In my world, I would ensure he air filter is clean and then adjust the H screw clockwise - no hope for you:thumbdown: For interest - take off the air filter and do a cuple of cuts and see if it is better - DONT run it for anymore like this. Removing the airfilter should make it lean up but the autotune may just richen it up further. Check the choke is coming fully off - no telling what the autotune is doing!

Does look that way doesn't it:001_rolleyes:

Do I remember them...of course, we purchased one of those, did it up and made some dosh on it....60mph - flippineck - thats good going!