spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Wondered where you had got to Rich, glad you are busy:thumbup:
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No worries, a pleasure to help and hope you get the bearing sorted soon:thumbup:
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If the chain is spinning or creeping at an idle of circa 3000rpm then something is wrong, if the springs have been changed then it could be a bad needle bearing, crud in the clutch or twine wrapped round the clutch drum. What does the saw do when you use the chain brake - does it stall?
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When I ported Stubbys 346XP, I found out the fuel tank breather had been blocked off from the day it was new - Andy said the local dealer had problems with his and another sold at the same time and couldn't find the reason why:001_rolleyes: It does happen - issues with new equipment, like I said, any decent tech will investigate the reason for the initial failure so it doesn't happen again. Pretty sure none of the machines I have done have failed after I have sorted them!
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Interesting MS200T, broken flywheel fin, buggered starter pulley -traced it back to a big dent to the front of the saw - this pushed the coil in and belted the flywheel, it busted off a fin that took out the pulley - call me Sherlock:lol: I ported the saw and fixed the dodgy accelerator pump in the carb plus a multitude of other smaller issues including a dodgy clutch drum, a damaged internal cover etc etc
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Started porting a 357XP, put the timing wheel on it and got some surprising figures - never pulled the figures from one of these saws before - Exhaust port Duration - 148* Transfer Duration - 122* Inlet duration - 144* Blowdown - 13* Interesting figures, I am guessing Husqvarna developed this saw to work on high crankcase pressure and have a very short blowdown period - there is a lot that can be done to the ports as the piston is "Non windowed" so the ports can be widened a lot:thumbup:
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And if left will end up with a piston crown that looks like the surface of the moon:thumbdown: Only had it in on one saw and that was the 066 when I was messing around with ignition timing - the only time you are likely to get pre ignition or detonation. The 066 just didn't rev right and sounded like it was about to blow so switched it off quickly!
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The carb was the obvious one but if no joy, you will need to remove and test the fuel line and impulse line - if either of these are holed, it will make the saw a pig to start - if you don't have a vacuum gauge - block one end with a suitable wood nail and suck on the other or immerse in water and blow:blushing: If it isn't that - perhaps the inlet manifold has cracked! 4 hours ......
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Got a 3120XP on the bench, big airleak traced back to air leaking from the small hole under the clutch drum needle bearing:confused1: Was baffled by this until I read that the saw has an oil gallery running down the centre of the crankshaft so the fuel air mix lubes the bearing. It has a built in one way valve that has obviously failed. There is no way this can be replaced and it had caused a little damage to the piston via a very mild seize. I have plugged the hole as fitting a new crankshaft would have been damn expensive and the seal appears unavailable to order. I now have a new set of seals on order (same as the 395XP) so should be up and running again with a new piston as well:thumbup:
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All in a days work:thumbup:
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On a seized saw, any decent tech will check for air leaks when rebuilding the saw and also retune the carb for correct running!
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I use and airline and GT85/carb cleaner. The jetwash method may get it clean but I have seen alloy corrosion and rusting of the clutch/needle bearing sometimes happening as quick as 24 hrs. If you do get water on a saw, it is important to get it hot very soon after and spray the clutch etc with a lubricant - the recoil spring also suffers badly to water!
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Been waiting for a seal to arrive from them for over 10 days:001_rolleyes: Can't say they are as good as Gustharts or L&S Engineers!
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Sounds like a very fair price to me:thumbup:
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That's a nice engine - twin choke dellortos?
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There was a similar thread earlier this week - it is 95% going to be either the earth strap which is the green and yellow wire by the front AV mount or the connector not connecting on the black wire in the same place. Take care when taking the side cover off the handle!
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You are on the list with the 372XT- thanks for the vid, I rarely get to time, compare and use many of the saws I do so having comparisons like this, teally help:thumbup: Sounds like it is pulling good revs through the cut!
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From my side, I do point out that if the saw is to be used by employees then a modded saw would probably not be suitable down to the H&S if there were an accident, but for your own use, it is your own personal choice. I had a motorbike tuned once - the choice was mine - the tuning shop just did what I asked of them! I am NOT taking H&S lightly, I see many machines come in with chain catchers missing or damaged chainbrake handles used by pro users........which get repaired:001_rolleyes:
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Nice vid Josh, pretty much bang on 20 seconds per saw - pretty impressive a 50cc saw keeping up with a 70cc one:thumbup:
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It is generally the earth wire (yellow/green) that has fractured - sometimes, even when it looks OK, it isnt. Simple to replace but take care when you remove the handle cover. The other possibility is the black wire may have come off its spade connector - just push it back on with the same side cover removed!
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Another MS200, yet another exhaust gasket not replaced properly, wasn't the first and won't be the last:001_rolleyes:
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Of course - the world and his wife seem to If there has been water in the bottom end, I would flush the crankcase out with petrol and spray water dispersant (GT85/WD40) on the crank bearings. turn the crank over slowly and make sure it is silky smooth, any notichness and the crank bearings are probably rusty or shot!
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Sounds like lack of fuel - look at the fuel filter, check the fuel line isn't split, check the carb internal gauze filter/strainer isn't blocked. It may be worth just trying to richen up the H screw 1/4 turn before diving under the top cover! Also worth checking the exhaust port isn't full of carbon - common issue with hedge trimmers.
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Try the metering arm - bend it upwards 0.5mm and try again:thumbup:
