spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Not sure if you are commenting about WYKs post or not but if you are, the "tonsils" he is on about is the support that drops down from the roof of the inlet port. This protrusion generally is used to stop the ring entering the port and wearing the edges or snagging in the port. What he is saying is that if you have ground it out then ensure the port edges are bevelled so the rings don't snag - good advice IMO and with all porting - time should be spent re-bevelling the edges of the port to avoid snagging of the rings. If it wasn't this then....what??
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<p>Hi Andy - sorry to hear you have been done over. I tend to hold on to saws until I have received payment unless I really know the owner - you, I would trust 100% as we have done business in the past but generally that is the deal with me - cash up front!</p>
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<p>It may be worth you crossing this one with Steve Bullman, he may say it is your own silly fault........sorry.... or may put the boot in a little harder!</p>
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<p>Is the guy local - we could knock on his door, IMO, he got a belter of a deal from you and he is taking the piss big time - PM me his name as I will keep an eye out and swerve any business from him!</p>
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<p>I guess you could threaten him with the police or legally - not sure it is worth it but TBH, it stinks!</p>
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<p>Steve</p>
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Many methods - open up the existing outlet, drill/remove the baffle plate, drill and let in a new exit pipe and then braze, cut a hole and screw on a deflector - these are most of the methods - depends on how loud and how free you want it. The forward facing exits with no baffle are the loudest, having the exhaust bounce off a surface before exit, cuts down on noise! As far as the opening goes - how loud do you want it:lol:
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Just drill the muffler - it makes a good difference!
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Hi Tom - will PM you!
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Know the feeling:001_rolleyes:
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Classic:lol:
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Pretty much my thinking as well Wes, unlikely to have bad seals or pipes at this age!
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From memory, think I got the blow lamp on it and knocked the carbon out when damn hot but agree, leave it out if you are not working in dry arrid conditions with bracken or dry grass around!
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Any pictures of the internal ports and transfers?
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It has a limited coil but you can feather it up to 13,900 and it juuussssttttt goes loopy at the very end so low 14000 - it may take more but like to build in a little safety! Check the plug colour after a good bash with it - coffee colour is good! Lucky I found the leaking seal - would have been toast very shortly!
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Wasn't there a series about im and his family? I am sure I remember the TV bit and the lake - bloody hilarious and was the epitomy of English Gentry. Seemed a nice bloke:lol:
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Done yours for starters and got a 357XP to do:thumbup:
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I did one of these once and there was a spark arrestor in the muffler - if you clean this it may well sort your issues!
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Holed pump diaphragm, leaking needle valve, incorrectly adjusted metering arm, incorrect diaphragm fitted, leaking/ missing welch plug, choke stuck on:confused1:
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Here we go again:001_rolleyes: if the choke isn't sealling well, the saw will have issues drawing enough fuel in to the engine so this mechanism has to be right. Other issues that can be fuel related are: - Blocked fuel filter, holed fuel line, holed/split impulse line, poor connection from carb to impulse line (seen that before on non OEM lines), holed pump diaphragm(common on the flaps and around the central hole - use a bright light behind it), incorrecct order of carb gaskets, blocked gauze strainer, holed diaphragm, metering arm not set correctly - this arm is set level to the BASE of the bowl of the carb not the sealing faces, poor compression, incorrectly adjusted carb H&L screws, faulty check valve, incorrecct diaphragm fitted - the central stud is longer than the MS200 one, blocked fuel tank breather. Thats about it:001_rolleyes:
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It gives a lot more potential but would make sure you ask your supplier about it before going mad - you can use the link for guidance!
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Found what I was looking for Wes - try this http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today-99.html#post700208 Should be helpful but do make sure that you check the meteor is still the same if you buy one, the 066 one I purchased was the same as the OEM part:blushing:
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33.9mm inlet 33.7 exhaust - the skirt has a scalloped edge and isn't straight - I believe the Meteor one has straight edges and is a lot wider!
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I think I have one - you need the width across the skirt - the "chord" length I guess??
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I was caretaking the 070 - arranged shipment to mine for A N Other! It was the cup that was loose - I think the ignition timing isn't controlled by the flywheel as it is on the contact breaker anyway - the flywheel apears just to have magnets on its inside to generate the voltage to spark but not time the spark......I think:confused1: The exhaust doesn't look right but the clip on it fits the top cover perfectly - Oh well, it runs, the starter works now......don't oil the pawls - thats my advice on that one!
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I put all mine through Spuds workshop, I gather he fixes most of the ones he lays his hands on:lol: Accelerator pump, check valve, welsh plug are common issues - a quality US cleaner will solve many but not all! It may be accelerator pump, welsh plugs mess up the idle and check valves the high speed running!
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I did one fir a milling Doctor on this site, there are things you can do. On the one I did, it had very uneven uppers so I leveled and reduced blowdown time. The ports can't be widened touch due to the width of the piston skirts so take the previous comments with a pinch of salt...sorry Eddie:blushing: I think from memory, that the base gasket can come out but measure it!
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Been there with the MS441, damn easy to widen ports without thinking about what will happen to the ring ends - hope treewizard is taking note of the advice! BTW - I hate having ring ends in this sort of position!
