spudulike

Perhaps I should publish it as a book:thumbup: never thought it would be this big!

Degrease, JB in the crack, cut thin stainless shim, shape to the channel, smear JB around and epoxy the stainless channel in to the cavity. Just make sure the bolt allows the clearance for this. The tank is under no pressure, it should last just fine.

A saw isn't measured by the bar size but by the engine capacity. You say you want to run a 24" bar, to me I would be running an 80cc+ power-head on a bar that size. 70cc would be the minimum size engine I would use on a 2' bar. If you stick a large bar on a small saw, it will just keep bogging and be a very frustrating experience. I have taken a look and Mitox do a 62cc saw on a 24" bar and 4HP on tap. A Husqvarna 372XP develops 5.4HP and would pull a 24" bar in a decent usable way. I guess you get what you pay for. I gather Mitox are a reasonably well put together machine at the purchase cost but would suggest that you either go for a larger machine or shorter bar.

The carb will come from a diaphragm kit??? L&S engineers for the carb and Rowena Motors for the diaphragms!

These big saws can nip up slightly and then the rings can free making some compression but when they run over the small aluminium transfer deposit on the cylinder, compression drops and knocks the performance. Best to stop using it as in extreme cases, the aluminium transfer is scrapped off and can end up I the main bearings knocking them out. These saws have a one way valve in the crank that expels petrol/oil vapour on the clutch needle bearing but if it fails on vacuum, could cause issues. I would pressure and vac check it plus check over the fuel system to make sure all is good if it has lightly seized and new parts are fitted!

From a maintenance point of view, how's about cleaning some of your saws/trimmers!!!

Sounds about right, you can take the base gasket out if you clean the carbon of the piston crown and squish band. Leave the transfers as they are already flowed more than the 020. The piston can stand some work but take care with port openings with the roof of the inlet port being left. Make sure all port edges are bevelled, the MS200 is soft on the rings but even so.....!

You being serious Andy:001_tongue:

Hope you know about free porting as there is not much widening that can be done on either port and the lower ring runs close to the inlet port at BTDC! If you just "go at it" it will make a nice shiny ash tray:001_rolleyes:

They arrived today.....sorry.......what else have you got:lol:

Here we go, all fully ported saws that go out of my workshop will now bear a super duper ported label:thumbup: It allegedly gives you 15% extra performance:001_rolleyes:

I braze with silver solder. I got a job lot of rods some time ago. The melting point of the rod is important if using a plumbers type Propane/Butane lamp.

Looks like the remains of a fuel filter and the weight to keep it at the bottom of the tank!

Fancy doing it for a living:sneaky2: Good job!

Yes, now it is clean and hasn't got he handle falling off it:sneaky2:

Just had an Echo come in with one of these WT carbs and fuel was pissing everywhere. Took the carb off and big air leak from the impulse line. Took the pumping diaphragm cover off and found the pumping diaphragm was missing the part that does the pumping so am assuming the gasket is used in another model of carb and had been fitted incorrectly. Fitted a spare gasket etc and the saw is a runner again.

Mmm. I remember you wrestling with a 346, it reminded me of a Jack Russell that has just found a rat and has grabbed it by the neck.....not quite what I am used to:001_rolleyes::lol: Happy days:thumbup:

I would have thought that a man with your engineering prowess Matty, would have had that saw singing by now:001_tongue:

Damn, I have been using yours:blushing: Nice stickers though:thumbup:

Start the saw, let it idle on the floor, hold the handle with one hand and the top of the engine with the other then tug the top handle about. If the engine speed changes with pulling then the impulse line or inlet manifold is split. Check the impulse line (underneath the carb housing on the recoil side) is connected. If this is OK, fill the tank to the top and see if the issue goes away. If it does, look at the fuel filter/line not sitting flat or a split fuel line although the latter isn't common. If the speed of idle changes when the Chain Brake is put on, suspect the crank seals. If the idle isn't even and the machine doesn't like being revved then check the accelerator pump and welch plug. If the saw over revs, probably the H screw needs adjustment, you have an air leak or the high speed check valve is blocked. If it won't idle but revs OK then clean the low speed check valve/jet. If you don't understand what I am talking about, your time is better spent up a tree and your saw needs a holiday to a technicians workshop:sneaky2: it will come back feeling much better and bearing a "Spuds Workshop sticker":thumbup:

It was an Xtorq so not like yours Andy. I was watching the vid I did when I did yours and I deducted that: - 1) I should have chocked up the log:blushing: 2) It is holding bloody high revs in the cut 3) It is a bit rapid on a 20":thumbup: [ame] [/ame]

It is unlikely you will see any residue from a leaking seal so a visual inspection is near useless. You need to seal the crankcase and measure the leakage or at very least, seal it, pressurise it 10psi) and use soapy water!

Well done Wes, glad the beast is running again:thumbup: