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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. spudulike
    Just looked at the carb pics again and, unless I am wrong, that check valve supplies the fuel to the high and low circuits from the look of it as there are no other jets present so blocking it would stop the machine running. Is it definitely a check valve? It does look like the type you get in a typical plastic purge bulb housing but not seen one like this but have spent the last 10 years avoiding them Do you think someone stuck a pin in it thinking it was a jet and fooked it?
  2. spudulike
    If all else fails, you could try plugging the purge circuit so the carb can work without it if it is faulty. Perhaps a little gasket seal may do it so it can be removed if it doesn't work. It may make the machine harder to start but at least it would prove the point. Have you compared the good carb with this one? I know they are different carb manufacturers but they may operate in a similar way.
  3. spudulike
    This is an interesting turn of events as if that check valve has been pushed in too far, it will most likely cut off the petrol feed to the thing. You could tap it through with a drift and then refit it so it is level with the lip you can see in the pic. If you are careful, you may be able to lever it out from inside the bore if it isn't too tight but I would knock it through if there is internal clearance to do so.
  4. spudulike
    Yes, if you have done Stihls then it shouldn't be too bad. The stuffers make it a bit more difficult as the typical big "C" type splitter won't fit around the crank lobe but the bar mount splitter will still work OK.
  5. spudulike
    Lip up Fatty...nothing personal: -
  6. spudulike
    As always, much depends on your level of experience in doing this sort of thing. If you have had small engines stripped and fixed then it will probably be relatively easy but if it is a first time, it is going to be an "interesting learning curve".
  7. spudulike
    Personally, I like a bit of Madness. My girl, it must be love etc, good ol songs in my book. One step beyond and Night boat to Cairo....all very Ska beat. This is coming from someone who would say rock is there main genre.
  8. spudulike
    I take it the carb is off the 026? There is no purge or otherwise on the 026
  9. spudulike
    And...the check valves I have removed are driven in to the main bore of the carb where they can be shaken out. The check valve is the brass bit!
  10. spudulike
    Chip them up as they come and then bag the chippings to put on the flowerbeds as it is unlikely to compost down and with the dry periods we get in the summer, the chip keeps in the moisture. Perhaps chip, bag and sell back or take donations is the way forward. As someone else said -get a local paper and arb company involved and make a splash - all proceeds to a good cause will move it forward.
  11. spudulike
    Looks a bit like Oak to me. If it has been sealed before, any attempt to stain it will only darken the areas where the seal has worn through - doorways and in front of sofas etc. If the floor has a reasonable thickness of veneer, you could sand it off or just try a slight stain on an area that doesn't show too much. You may get away with a good dose of white spirit, steel wool and elbow grease and then use a stain/oil mix as previously mentioned when dry.
  12. spudulike
    Here is one but try 3 for a sanity check: - Our Aggregates Calculator helps you work out how much aggregate you need. WWW.PRIMARYAGGREGATES.CO.UK Type 1, 6F5, Shingles Sharp Sand, Building Sand, Ballast, whatever your requirements use our Aggregate Calculator to work out how much material you require.
  13. spudulike
    Probably best to use an online calculator using the area and depth of MOT etc
  14. spudulike
    No, please do keep on about the orange filters, they like to choke up the engine when not fully cleaned properly. A bit of a wipe or a sprinkle of water isn't good enough to clean the open areas. Spray with brake cleaner, WD40, carb cleaner or similar and blast with an air compressor and inspect afterwards with a magnifying glass and a bright light. The filters can be split in to two parts with the twist clips on the joint...it makes the job easier.
  15. spudulike
    A good draw also depends on the flue top being higher than the ridge of your roof and also higher than close surrounding buildings.
  16. spudulike
    I believe that this would be a one way valve. If you stick your mityvac on the actual breather assembly as pictured, does it flow both ways or during your tank test, did the air simply just escape around a loose breather assembly.
  17. spudulike
    Difficult to tell without looking at it and/or plugging it in but worth changing the plug, stripping and reassembling the carb inspecting the pump diaphragm for perforated flaps, pump diaphragm for sagging and the old gauze strainer for fine chip in it. Worth giving the air filter a damn good clean with oil based fluid and an air compressor and giving the fuel filter a good inspection or just replace it. If that doesn't do it, getting the local dealer to stick it on CST and looking at the carb settings may give you a clue.
  18. spudulike
    There are regulations on how long the flue should extend and depends on your roof line and neighbours if present. Chimneys and flues: Don't forget the neighbours! | LABC WWW.LABC.CO.UK
  19. spudulike
    If that was a Honey Locust, it would have loads of 5cm+ spikes sticking out of the trunk and branches. I had one in my back garden and trod on one of those spikes...bloody painful!
  20. spudulike
    Ours will burn with all the dampers closed and the damper in the flue closed...I am guessing the draught from our chimney is pretty strong and yours is non existent. Does it smoke back in to the room when you haven't had a fire for a few days?
  21. spudulike
    I know, I have a Stockton 8 and it works fine.
  22. spudulike
    It is the air control that allows air to be introduced through the holes in the back plate. Pushed in is off, out is air allowed in so you need it out. If it still smokes then the flue updraft is probably too low or possibly you may need to introduce air in to the room - try opening a window 5 mins before opening the door.
  23. spudulike
    Have you got a flue damper? If you don't know what that is - it is a circular disk in the metal flue above the stove. You can't see the metal disk but the control handle will be sticking out of the flue see pic....if you have one, make sure the control handle is vertical before opening the door. Other than that, you may need to open the damper below the stove (there is a slider damper under the entrance plate) and if that doesn't work, try opening all the front dampers and try that. If it still smokes, your flue draw is probably not sufficient.
  24. spudulike
    It is a powerful machine!!
  25. spudulike
    Lets hope so. One thing to check, if you haven't already, is the state of the piston through the exhaust port, make sure the exhaust port isn't coked up and check the exhaust isn't blocked. All may give rise to poor running.

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