spudulike

Right, the two pairings on this saw are : - 1) Flywheel 1124 400 1210 (Polymer flywheel) and Coil 1124 400 1301 2) Flywheel 1124 400 1201 (Solid Metal Flywheel) Coil 1124 400 1302 It would seem like you have No 2 as above so you should have the 1302 coil and from you saying that it has two mounting screws, it would sound like it is the correct coil. Worth checking the part codes though. Firstly, learn what an Ohm is and how basic resistance works. The beeper on the average multimeter is measuring what electricians call continuity...that is pretty much zero to around 50 ohms. What you are measuring is the spur connection in your HT cap to the coil laminates or even the kill wire and that will be through the HT wire and then through a load of very thin copper wire windings so expect a reading of 1000 Ohms or more. This reading will need to be measured on the correct setting on your multimeter and if you get a reading, it means your spur and HT lead are correctly joined to the coil. I once had a MS461 with no spark and did this measurement and got an open circuit reading so took the HT lead off the coil and it was badly corroded. I cleaned this up and bingo, I got a spark and a running machine saving the owner £££. It happens. In your case, if the flywheel is good and the coil is good, you should get a spark especially if you have disconnected the kill circuit so the only components are the flywheel and the coil (gapped correctly) ....there is still the question of when the spark happens (ignition timing) but if the flywheel key is OK and the flywheel keyway is OK, it should be bob on.

So it doesn't have a small torx screw on the top like below? Every MS150 I have ever had in has had one.

Yeah, but the trouser legs are the perfect length against his shoes.

The engine is a bit strange in the fact the crankcase is split in to two halves but has a plastic cradle a bit like a clam shell type engine. The bearings and seals are a push fit in to the cases. It will be a good learning curve and it will be worth opening up the outlet hole under that muffler top cover. You will get a good increase especially if you go for the nylon air filter as well. A real simple mod, cheap and effective.

Pictures help but my personal experience....I planted one and diligently pruned it each year, the trunk must have been around 10" diameter and the "tree", no more than 12' when we moved home. The tree grew to at least 40' in around 4 years, the new owners cut the tree down and I had the wood for the burner. The long and short - prune hard each year and don't let it get out of control.

Pulling the bearings and working on the crank is like working on a sewing machine. everything is super small on these saws and typical bearing pullers etc are pretty useless on this tiny engine. The plus point is that the saw is relatively easy to take apart. The crankshaft should have no in and out movement as the bearings are a interference fit on the cank shaft unlike the MS200T. There should also be no up and down movement as the bearings are ball races. Don't confuse the sprocket movement as crank bearing movement.

Forking wet....and wet again....oh....and a bit more...wet again. Will it ever stop....oh.....NO

A few things to try: - 1) make sure the air filter is clean - replacing the flock paper one with the nylon one helps the saw. 2) make sure the muffler is clear of carbon. They can get pretty clagged up under the top cover held in place with the screw. Whilst the muffler is off, check the piston for scoring and the port for carbon. 3) On these saws, the flywheel runs pretty close to the plastic body and they tend to build up a fair bit of wood chip in this area and this can stop the saw idling. Just remove the recoil cover and clean with an old paint brush and compressor air line. Whilst in there - make sure the front engine mounts are OK - if the stop switch has stopped working, they are probably loose or knackered. They are located to the top and bottom of the clutch drum. See how that helps.

Isn't "Floki" and Ikea table in beech effect finish, ideal for any home

Strange...2 hrs use and this type of issue. These big saws need a lot of conviction on starting and best to get the piston close to TDC before giving it the full lunge, any sign of a limp start and it will kick like a mule....Stihl could have done a better job on the low revs ignition advance. On the coil to flywheel gap - set it to the very minimum gap and try testing for a spark then. This method can often get an intermittent coil of flywheel with poor magnets up and running again - worth a try although it may kick badly once the plug is back in. The HT cap spur to coil laminate resistance check will either show no continuity or, I think from memory, around 1.2K Ohms....don't expect it to be near zero!

Blimey, "broken wire" really I am guessing that your saw has the OEM poly flywheel? I once had a MS461 in with a similar issue and assumed the same as you...coil and it transpired that there was slight impact damage to the magnet and, this being a steel laminated type on the poly flywheel, had decided to lose most of its magnetism and as such, it didn't spark. You say you have fitted a new coil...my thinking is that it is extremely unlikely this is a bad new OEM part. The kickback you mention - I have had this on MS660s where the gap between the coil and flywheel has been too little. The reduced gap advances the ignition and my thinking is that your flywheel may have been too close to the flywheel and if it clattered it a bit, the flywheel may have failed during the period where you got kickback. Checking the continuity between the spur plug connector and the coil laminates proves the coil and HT cap are connected OK - I think you have done this. Closing the gap up between the magnet and coil can sometimes work on weak flywheel magnets - I have used typical printer paper before to set the gap just to get a decent spark - as I mentioned, this will advance the ignition and it may kick. If you remove the kill wire from the coil, you only have the coil and flywheel that can be wrong! The last thing - some saws need a bloody good tug to get a spark, the 660 is one of them and probably the 880 is the same so look for the spark in subdued light....they are often weak at low flywheel speed. My guess is the flywheel magnetism is shot...unless we are missing some info or some of your tests/assumptions are incorrect.

The gains always sound great but if you purchased in Nov 2021, you won't be feeling so chipper. Now if you purchased in Dec 2022...now may be a good time to sell.

Perhaps he wants someone to help him lift it out Do what I do...get the wife to help

It isn't a return spring for the chain brake guard is it? Does the guard flop to and forth now? The brake guard was pretty crap anyway and don't see it saving you in an emergency.

I am out of the game now Wes, did the retirement thing, no idea how I had time for work and living before!! Thanks for the nod though.

You may have heard of Pandora,s Box, if you undo that third cap, you may find "Hope" in there but unfortunately, in this saws case it will probably be "No Hope".

From your description of the issue, it sounds like the carb needle valve isn't set right or it is leaking. The needle valve in the carb, stops the fuel from the tank ending up flowing straight through the carb in to the engine hence my thinking the valve isn't sealing correctly. It is possible that there are other issues but a saw shouldn't flood just through carrying it for a while....it is possible if the saw is left out in full summer sun and the fuel expands but it isn't that common.

I must have imagined it and am guessing that your knowledge must be far greater than ours. I must avoid eating cheese late at night!

The clutch can undo but it is held in place by the clutch drum as it is held in place with an E clip so the two parts lock together....not so dramatic but also not that great.

Hate to mention this but the small hatchet in the second pic....it looks like someone has put the the head on upside down. On the bright side, you may find a makers mark on the head if you look closely. Brades or Eagle edge etc may be nice.

Well, I have had it happen and a few times in exactly the same way ADW mentions....the engine spools down and bingo, the clutch spins off and parts go everywhere...quite spectacular seeing a spinning clutch drum sparking on the block drive disappearing in to the distance, closely followed by the clutch It will be on external clutch saws and not the internally mounted ones hence this happening on the saws I mentioned. I have had a Poulan clutch literally shat its components when it span off in the back garden, I should have learnt from this brief spell of stupidity but heck, I was used to a bit of danger being on bikes and the like so then I had 357XPs and 346XPs do the same, especially if the clutch had been removed, usually ending up losing the clutch bearings. Sure, It is much less likely to happen if you use a rattle gun or if the clutch hasn't been removed but ADW isn't telling you this for his own health, he knows a little about saws as I do but up to you if you want to keep on with this practice.

I had one of these saws as part of a job lot. The chain brake would never stop the saw dead, the sparkplug was beginning to melt the top cover, the recoil broke as it would never start on 3 pulls, the oiler was as reliable as the UK train service......oh, it never ran well and when it did, it wasn't to hot. Apart from that, it was a decent saw and worth around £30.

The guy pressure checked the engine with the manifold in place so it should be good.

Basically, you have the right to cut back both the branches and roots up to the boundary but if the tree becomes unstable or causes damage then you may be found liable for the consequences. If the tree is causing damage to your property or causing you expense then you have the right to seek costs. Good luck with that one...legal fees are ridiculous at best and only favour the legal trade. The best solution is probably to mediate with the neighbour but this can often be fractious if the neighbour is a bit of a bell end. If he is a bit of a clapper, so to speak, best to hit him with an option he really doesn't like and to negotiate back to the solution that you really want. So...start with felling the fecker and mediate back to a heavy pollard!!

You won't be able to purchase just the magnetic ring, it is bonded to the flywheel and isn't available by itself.