doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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Just charge for the vented bag accordingly, it's easy enough. I did notice that my new bags are noticeably more 'perky' than the older ones- this pattern does of course repeat itself in other areas of my life....
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Tell us a bit about your current way of doing things and how much per year you want to do?
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IMHO you'd be wasting your time doing your own tickets. Let's take stock- you're a farmer, you have a farm/contracting business to run- is it really worth your time to swing about in a tree? Great if you enjoy it- maybe keep it as a hobby? You also have big kit, some one which by the sounds of it is already timber related. And I presume you are a reasonable businessman, even if subsidised by the state (only messing mate, there's plenty of folk on here who are farm based) The obvious route is to get insurance which covers you for anything tree related. Then find yourself a decent couple of subbby climbers to hire in as needed- think of it as hiring in a specialist machine for a specific job- why pay to have it sitting in yard (hazy anology to training yourself/doing tickets) if you don't use it much? IMHO you'd do better to be the man on the ground, putting the job together, using your contacts, premises and big kit to do it efficiently, and get someone skilled do the donkey work up a tree.
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Slabwood is a piece of piss to cut, all you need is a decent chop saw. Not much in the way of justifying kit required. Depending upon distance I would look to either take a lorry at a time, or if local leave your trailer there for him to load as he goes then pick it up, process it and return it (or ideally leave another trailer there when you collect). The less times either of you you have to touch the wood, the better value it is for both parties.
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I just bought the telescopic shaft section from a pole saw for £230, all bases covered with only one engine! Which can be sold after warranty finishes and replaced at minimal cost/loss. Won't suit everyone but for the extremely varied yet not always regular work I use mine for it's ideal.
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Yes, but I thought it was last nights rogan josh making an appearance! We got a little but not as bad as you by the sounds of it, no trees down here in Cocking/Bepton. Sat in the tractor cab for about twenty minutes yesterday PM though as I'd have drowned if I opened the door, bloody hell didn't it rain?
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Stubby, we're miles away and we've the South Downs between us and Hayling!
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Two Mutleys with numbers in their username. This is gonna get confusing
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If you're good and you know it, then charge piece rate- ie. by the metre. Win win for both parties.
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Hiring out woodmizer WITHOUT operator- your thoughts please...
doobin replied to Mobile-sawman.'s topic in General chat
You could consider joining the Construction Plant Association and using their Model Terms and Conditions. They are pretty watertight to say the least, and membership also gives you access to their assistance and expertise should something go wrong. They will also know who to use for insurance for this type of venture (insurance where you pay when it's at your yard, and the customer pays unless they can show proof of their own hired in plant insurance). -
If you've run veg oil in your pump and now normal oil won't work, it's very simple- the oil is congealing in your pump. Solvents such as petrol will not do much at all to clear this. The answer is to run near boiling water through your pump. You will see the globules of oil come out in the stream of water. Any veg oil is fine for bar lube. And any veg oil has a tendency to congeal especially when cold. That's why if you run straight veg oil in a diesel car, it's common place to fit a preheater just before the injection pump.
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£50 a builders bag would be a retail price to Joe Bloggs. If you need a fair bit for your own use then look to buy timber by the ton in lengths. Round here softwood slabwood goes for £25-30 a ton.
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Slabwood will burn fine. If you can get it cheap enough then go for it.
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Middle pedal? They have two that join together surely. Mine needs to be bled every few weeks or if independant braking it can start to touch the floor. As it uses the main oil reservoir it's not too much of an issue and easier for the time being than sorting the underlying issue. It happens so slowly that you don't realise it and get used it it. Then when you bleed them you end up almost going through the hole where the windscreen used to be
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I just bolt the tool straight onto the shaft of whatever strimmer/hedgecutter I have. Combi system introduces extra vibration and movement at the join. Haven't used one in years.
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There was one in Farmers Weekly about two weeks ago. Unusual machine- not exactly an out and out arable machine with hydro transmission and 95HP, so may still be around. Whether it's the right money or not, I don't know. YANMAR CT95 RUBBER tracked | Farmers Weekly Classified
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The other reason to buy an International for a yard/loader tractor is the shuttle gearbox- you get the same four speeds in reverse as you do high and low.
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Can't blame it on the engine if oil changes were neglected. The International 454 German-built diesel engine (as fitted to most of the UK-sold models) can only be bored out once, by a few thou. Therefore clean oil is a must for this engine also. In fact it's a must for any engine. I never understand people who think it's OK, or a cost saving, to leave what looks like crude oil in an engine. Or even to let it get like that in the first place.
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A tractor always comes in handy, plenty of us lads have got one or two....
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As this has turned into the International Appreciation Thread (my fault, I know ), here are some pictures of my Flora earning her keep:
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She's a beauty! How much if you don't mind me asking? I paid £1800 for my 454, excellent engine but cab panels a bit rotted. Good safety frame and roof, that's all I need! So I sold the doors
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Oh, the International would be old all right! Mid to late 70s. They're just not as 'collectable' as MF and Ford. And much better specced for the money.
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That's why the OP needs an International.... Power steering, two speed PTO, power brakes, pickup up hitch, power loader. All for 2 - 2.5k. No anorak collectors pushing up prices either.
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Proper all rounder would be something like a 60-80 HP conventional 4WD tractor. But as you already own a decent one, albeit compact, best just to get a yard tractor at reasonable money. I refer you again to my statement about hours worked and depreciation, it makes a lot of sense.
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These compacts don't have proper draft sensing as such, he's put the chains there to allow it to to 'sit' the splitter down in a transport position without having the tractor constantly trying to adjust the height of the splitter as it's so heavy.
