doobin

You run a 3/4 step down too? Best of both worlds

That’s just as well, I hear most stores have hygiene rules against returning ‘female power tools’...

Joke all you want, that’s where my air spade/jackhammer thing came from and it’s brilliant ?

Drills are generally faster but an impact driver uses impact to prevent cam out as I mentioned earlier. So best tool for the job there. Also tend to be much more compact.

You have to know what to buy and from where. There’s no one supplier that’s best for everything. Toolstation I like because there’s only £10 minimum order for free next day delivery.

I use tool station 95 percent of the time, but the turbo coach screws are a product I have used for years and can recommend. Along with the easydrive concrete screws.

I can only surmise that neither of you have a big enough tool...? I have a Makita 285 impact wrench and the top end brushless dril- 482 I think. Drill wins every time. If you're ripping the top off the screw, that proves my point about the drill having more sustained torque- try Turbo Coach Screws from Screwfix, they're really good.

For coach screws, you want sustained torque. Use a drill and 1/2" adaptor. Impact wrenches provide jolts of torque. Great for breaking loose rusted fittings with jolts of more torque than a drill can provide, and not snapping your arm off. Impact drivers use the same principle to prevent cam-out when driving PZ screws. Try a drill- it's twice as quick, honestly. The big Makita drills come with a massive left hand brace, which is ace for driving coach screws or mixing cement in buckets.

How do you rate the Makita gun? Does it ever give trouble? Can you tell if grease is going in the fitting or whether it's airlocked?

Honestly mate, in your situation I'd get a small lorry or have a V8 jeep and leave it coupled to your trailer. That's what we do for transport. Has gas conversion so actually surprisingly cheap to run. Fleet policy means insurance is negligable and running costs are only as much as you use it. It's the simplest way get 250HP+ in the UK.

Can be more faff than you think. I gave up, kept popping off in awkward spots.

Pickups are always juicy. My 1.3 diesel Corsa van pays for it's insurance cost each year just in fuel savings. Running costs are small and the flexibility and convenience of having multiple vehicles (five actually!) pays for that. Big J, eventually you're going to just have to accept that you can't get a pickup that goes as fast with a trailer as it does without. Sounds like that would be dangerous anyway, in those 'narrow Devon lanes'...

I have the top models of most Makita ranges. Any questions fire away.

6x1 treated edging boards and 1" site pegs are peanuts to buy and save any messing around. Will also last longer than a year in the ground, unlike hazel or pallet wood.

The same thing is happening with diggers. Can't get a 2.8t machine with a 4 cylinder lump in anymore. Plenty of manufacturers use the same engine in models tons apart. When I bought my 2.7 tonner, there were a few manufacturers with 'premium' machines in the range with engines around 18/19kw. There were also lots with only 14/15kw for a similar weight, and I'm sure I remember one with only 13kw. 18-19kw seems to be used also for most 3.5t machines- my Bobcat E27 has the same power engine as an E35. I'd imagine there is a break in the emmissions-weight class around there, because power ballons on a 4.5t machine, to 30.2KW on an E45, With diggers, recent technological advances such as the widespread adoption of variable displacement piston pumps have made the same or more out of less power. You'll often hear people remark how a modern 1.8t digs like an old school 2.5t, and they're not wrong. I fail to see how a woodchipper with exactly the same working mechanism, chipping the exact same timber, can make the same, let alone more, from less power. Way less power.

Cheap circular saw TCT blades are fine for this (the Stihl blades are way overpriced) and usually come with a set of reduction rings, almost always there'll be a 25.4mm ring with a blade or you can buy them separately.

When my staff and I did the non notifiable asbestos course, we were told that transporting asbestos as a business was totally illegal. Homeowners might get away with it, but probably only as the council would rather they take the odd bit to the tip rather than bury it. No way would OP be allowed to drop off a transit of asbestos at the tip, and the best price I had for a small asbestos skip was £800 plus vat. If a smaller amount then you can get a collection via sealed tipper van, but still usually over £500

Just bung in some fuel stabiliser when you park it up. Aspen is way too expensive unless you want it for the health benefits I guess where in the country are you?

No it’s not. Especially after paying to tip the old ones, quadruple if it’s asbestos. You’re not allowed to take asbestos off site, you have to get a firm in to remove it.

Looks a lot more complicated than it needs to be ? At a guess, a pair do the hydraulic disengage when arm up, another pair do the 'don't start when arm down' bit, and the other seems to be an earth for some reason? I'd test the wires still attached to switch with a multimeter- you can see by the diagram that one pair should be open and one should be closed. If it's not doing this then switch is at fault- buy new swith and replace, using heat shrink crimps if yoInsert other media u don't want to be messing around with intermittent connections in the future.

I have both the Stihl 181 and Husky 135, and the Husky has more power for less money. McCulloch I've never known to be anything other than shit, so you dodged a bullet in my book if it makes you feel any better? ?

At 7cm diameter, I'd chuck it in a decent electric drill.

If you’re getting so old you can’t pull the starter cord, it’s probably time you hang the chainsaw up for good ?

Firstly, check the fuse. If OK, remove cover from the arm rest, find the switch, unplug it from the circuit and jump the two terminals. If this works, then it's switch (most likely). Failing that, you'll need to search for a break in the wire somewhere, most likely where the wire flexes when the armrest is lowered or raised. Should be a simple fix.

Kohler are just as shit when it comes to after sales service. I'll take a Loncin over either Kohler or Briggs. Wouldn't buy a GreenMech after reading some of the posts here either.