Squaredy
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Everything posted by Squaredy
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Thank you for yet more helpful suggestions. I will look into all these and let you know what I do!
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Yeah, I have asked a friend of a friend so this might be an option.
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Also very interesting and thank you. I can measure tomorrow, and I will look into this and let you very helpful Arbtalkers know. I think our governments should ask for guidance from Arbtalkers on a range of issues...
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Thanks for that link. I will look into them. It might not be feasible to commission someone to make them as a one-off as it is not worthwhile for them for peanuts. I almost feel I just need to come across a tube of the right diameter and to fudge it. I will probably mess about with it for a few days and then give up and buy the whole assembly. But I haven't given up yet!
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Birch is much used in other countries and is a very nice indoor timber. Ideal for kitchen cupboards, mirror frames, or indeed many items where great hardness is not vital.
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Thank you for the suggestion. I have asked someone if they can produce them with a 3d printer. I can't think of anyone who could make it in brass - it is so thin I am not sure if this is feasible. I will post a pic of the assembly tomorrow. I have contacted Norwood in the USA who are meant to be getting back to me, but no joy yet. I somehow doubt they will help me as it would lose them spare parts sales. And the parts are all crazy prices - especially in the UK.
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Now this may sound daft, but I need four of this part for my Norwood HD36: It is a sleeve which fits into a slider used to adjust the position of the adjustable blade roller. I have of course contacted the agent (Davies Implements) and they have the whole assembly there for around £200. Which is fine but these little sleeves pop in and out so easily it is crazy to throw away the whole thing for a couple of grams of nylon. Any bright ideas? I know it is the modern way to replace whole assemblies but I do resist it when I can as it is so wasteful.
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Yes it does tend to split, but if you can get it milled or split the log down the middle so the two halves dry separately there will be usable timber there. And when you do make something out of it, the grain is amazing.
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Well we need to cut some of them down and get them milled and turned into turning blanks as the grain is stunning. I know they rarely will have good straight stems but this won't matter for small scale craft use.
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Is Hemlock comparable to Douglas or Larch as Firewood ?
Squaredy replied to arboriculturist's topic in Firewood forum
This website has dry weights. The Wood Database WWW.WOOD-DATABASE.COM Explore the woods, break out of the ordinary. Identifying and using hundreds of woods worldwide. And my old Woodworker's Manual has many, which I used to look up in before everything was on the internet. -
Is Hemlock comparable to Douglas or Larch as Firewood ?
Squaredy replied to arboriculturist's topic in Firewood forum
Calorific value is very misleading - most species are similar as it is usually given as energy per kilo dry weight. What you need to look up is dry weight of a cubic foot, which tells you that Larch is about 36lb per cubic foot dry (European that is), DF is about 32lb and Hemlock is only 28 to 29. So it is better than Spruce but not as good as Larch. For comparison Ash is around 44lb per cubic foot. So once you have the dry weight you can estimate the actual energy; as like you said the calorific value is similar per kilo - even most hardwoods are similar. -
Poplar any market at the moment
Squaredy replied to treetech's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Hi, I buy Poplar for milling if they are clean and straight and fairly priced. Would you like to PM me the details? -
Very beautiful timber and it won't be affected by the DED. Unless it has bad ring shake it will be well worth milling. Useful for indoor furniture etc, but also potentially outdoor items, even boatbuilding potentially. Worth googling a few images as it is beautiful timber - way nicer than Oak.
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Thanks guys. Anyone on here got one of them?
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I am probably going to invest in my own bandmill blade sharpening equipment. It is for my Norwood HD36 bandmill, but in the future this may get upgraded to something better. Can anyone share their personal experience of such machines? I like the look of the Wood Mizer one, but at £1850 it is over three times the price of the Woodland Mills one, and they seem to do a very similar thing.... Same question as well for setting machines - any recommendations?
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I don't think it is possible for firewood to be too dry. This is a myth propagated by people selling firewood that is not dry enough! If your fire burns too fiercely and hot you need to use fewer larger pieces, not wetter wood.
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Getting them sharpened properly is a challenge also. I could tell you about several professional saw doctors who do not sharpen them correctly. Stephen cull does sharpen them right, but yes it also is a can of worms.
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I totally agree with Andy's advice - Ripper 37 are the blades to use from Stephen Cull. But to answer your question - you need to change the blade often. If we are cutting all day we get through 5 or 6 blades, so changing every hour or so. And not because we are cutting muddy logs or hit metal. Just these type of bandsaws need super sharp blades. Also you could be going too fast with the cut. So try a new blade, (preferably Ripper 37) and if still wavy try slowing down.
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We call it a burr in the UK. Wood turners love them so I would make sure it is saved if and when it is felled. A photo or two would help. The challenge is finding a buyer, but some arbtalkers might be interested.
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Forgive me as this is not my area of expertise, but as it is very likely this tree will fall victim to Ash Dieback at some point over the coming months or year or two is it really worth trying to save? If it has a question mark over it and is already starting to show dieback signs why not just accept the inevitable?
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And now some slightly wider logs - Cedar of Lebanon just over four feet at the widest point, and fair play it cut it well. Maybe I will get onto some really big logs next week... Watch this space.
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Yes they are Alder.
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I am sure it will be more sellable as lorry load batches.for sure. But that stack is too mixed for most sawmills.
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Well I buy 2.5m logs for milling. But I think most sawmills would want longer.
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I can't speak for other mills but I pay £70 per ton for most woods (hard or soft) and £100 or more for Oak and 2.5m is perfect for me. I am very small though and only need a lorry load or three every now and then. And as has been said most sawmills will want longer logs - 3.7m for softwood and as long as possible for hardwood possibly 5m.
