rowan lee

Does anyone know if the Eagle, 55 or 100 allows for double cutting of logs thicker then 30cm? A chap in the Large machinery section reckoned his Eagle wouldn't allow this process given the design of the spring mounted log holder. I assume there might also be issues with the guard protection design as well?

Aye Pal, fast but dangerous Liked this one a little better, plus some extra guardingaround the impact zone [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BpAhGSFWXc]YouTube - Flywheel Wood Splitter[/ame]

On the ball again mate, cheers. That model will be a long tow back from Finland then Didn't realise Farmi and Pilkemaster were the same.

Ok thanks, i assumed the holder was a standard 'V' shape. I wonder if the holder could be modified easily for bigger double cutting requirements. Must see if the Palax 55 is designed differently or bring a big lump with me to a demo. Wicked little tractor mate btw, don't tell my old 35 though

Think i have found what i was looking for, Not quite auto but this is very quick on the right wood. (And also a neat looking processor in action - other vid's, like the splitter release/infeed combination) Any dealers outside of Finland though? Haven't seen these in the Uk or Ireland. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFGpRUELN8Y]YouTube - Pilkemastesr Evo : Firewood Processor and Wood Splitter same time[/ame]

Hey, have been thinking very seriously about one of these myself (about 2k euro in Ireland though). The next model up with an auto hydraulic splitter is just a little out of my budget to justify what is essentially a small operation. Just wondering - does the guard housing around that blade allow for double cutting i.e. on say a 20'' log cut half way through and then rotated and finished off? Haven't seen one in action yet. Happy logging mate

Howya mate. This pto chipper on the back off a 35 here, is a Negri 220 (15cm cap.). Cost 1500e in decent 2nd hand condition (about 3500e new i think) with new blades. Isn't in every day use but is perfect for a small holding like ours and occasional spring cleaning. As for a first tractor, if i was buying i'd be keen to get something like a Leyland as well or a small Case with a front loader. The old 35 we have goes on and on for ever, but the fetch a good few pound in reasonable condition. With a set of doubles on the back, they will get through some fairly mushy soft spots.

And this one has been painted up, to look a little less deadly! (Personally i wouldn't mind one of these at all. You could extend that guard frame the whole way round and just have a little hatch at the base of the table to say enable loading of 10'' max. size rounds.) [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BpAhGSFWXc]YouTube - Flywheel Wood Splitter[/ame]

True, but I think Girdle mentioned in an earlier thread, that the system he uses allows wood that is felled freshly during the early summer to be ready to burn in the autumn. So if there is a time issue it speeds things up in the long run. If you have a years supply already in the bags then perhaps there is no need? Personally, i fell, haul, log, split, and heap a transport box at a time from our small woods at home in the one sequence. It adds variety to the task, and although at first it seems like the heap in only progressing slowly, after a few weekends of it, it soon starts to look well. All the split logs are just hand balled onto pallets and a tarp covered. Granted this system would not work well for a large outfit, but for personal use and about £2000 worth of private net bag sales a year, which pays for the fuel, maintenance of machinery, and a bit of beer money, etc, its well worth the time and effort, so long as a you have a years supply in advance.

BTW folks, i may not have been clear in the initial post. I didn't mean range as in 12'' to 14'' i meant either a 12 or 14'' etc. What i meant was - how come you can get 16'' bars for a 250 and 260 yet - you can't get a 12'' bar for a standard 260 and you can't get a 13'' bar for a standard 250. Is it something to do with the standard pitch size of these saws and the gear ratio's Cheers.

Agree with first point, the guy wanted to put an 18'' on my first 250 in the shop - cos he had run out of 16'' bars, both of which i thought were too big and and awkward anyways for a 45cc saw. (I opted for a 14'' instead). Not sure i understand your second point though? Having a shorter bar doesnt make the chain rotate faster surely, perhaps you get slightly faster acceleration from go, but if im cutting a 6'' diameter log, with a 16'' or a 12'' bar on the same saw, surely its not gonna make a huge difference when it comes to aggression. Or will it?

cool man, no doubt we'll see the old fordson doing what it does best Love seeing the photos and vids of her in action.

Nice pictures mate - nicely pruned looking trees as well mate after this last seasons bumper harvest. Last one is great, lovely balance in that frame.

Another silly question to annoy all you pro's with. Bar size snobbery, or is there a mechanism/system behind it all that requires it. For example - (correct me if i'm wrong but) never seen 12-14'' bars for back handled pro saws i.e. on a 260 and yet have never seen 13-15'' bars on domestic saws i.e. on a 250 Does this tie in my with my other query in the thread on 'the funtion of pitch' Or is it something you guys want to own up too!

thanks to all who have replied. An interesting picture emerging here. Thought it was a silly question, but cheers Mesterh, would be good to get the definitive answer alright. Interesting points with regards to gear ratio's, general strenght and duribility, and the theory from ben lightfoot.

Thanks all, food for thought

Looked tricky enough. Did you top much off before you felled? Thanks for posting.

Sorry for consistently asking stupid questions in this section - but why are there different pitch sizes? As far as i'm concerned as an occasional chainsaw user, the only function of pitch for me is indicating the file size i should use to sharpen the cutters. Surely one universal pitch size could cater for all types of chains, irrespective of cutter size? Please enlighten me folks

Thats not bad then, and having the ability to move kit like this about must be useful.

Wicked set of shots Ace. What i always like about your jobs is that you prove time and time again, that any job no matter how big can be achieved with the minimum amounts of kit and the right kind of knowledge and experience. Did it take long to rip through that trunk?

Cool, could do with a bit of post and rail wood myself. Most be nice being able to do it all from scratch, rather then just heading down to the local saw mill/timber yard and picking up the finished product. Neat mill as well, is it hard to move around, or can you just whack some wheels and a hitch on?

This dudes back most be in tatters.Sliding about in that mud, no chopping block, all that bending, swinging wildly with a gruntish looking maul, panting like an elephant. Couldn't help but laugh, although smart looking quad he has. Somebody get this poor dude a block and a tyre. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leeC_7Atl78]YouTube - Manual Log Split with Maul[/ame]

Simple idea's are best, liked that Hammer. Always though an old cattle trailer conversion would be mint, if you could remove upper body and install a ram underneath.

Cheers Minn - does RS comfort require alot more effort and/or technique then, when you say 'rock hard when sharpening'. Most give it a go on my mates 260 sometime and see if there is much of a difference compared to what i'm used too, and if i can get a similar edge. Thanks for the heads up anyways mate.

- might explain why its not as standard on a 250 then (i.e. domestic saw). I'm right in thinking that full chisel commands more experience from the user and can deliver more kick back potential then semi chisel?