RobRainford

i would rather pollard the limes and leave them in, they are the classic avenue tree anyway. are they unmanaged trees or lapsed pollards?

ill give milners a ring again and see what i can find elsewhere, i can find parts in austrailia but the shipping would cost more than the parts. The cost of overhauling the diff would be the same as buying a whole new truck just for parts, and less hassle, if i can source the parts i would be able to do it myself. otherwise its into the garage

Anything you could salvage steve would be a great help. Finances aren't too good ATM but I'll be able to pay the postage. Here's the model details Toyota details Model kf-ln167-TRMDS Engine 3L Frame ln-167 0017650 Trans/axle g52 AO5A The g52 is the code I need for the part. It's not a vw badged hilux. It's a real struggle for even breaker parts. I'm after a couple of front seats if anybody has some in reasonable condition lying around?

an import like this one? milners dont have any, my dad is the owner and he has been looking for the part for a while. he has a navara with the same setup that he uses and he had two for the peak of the spraying season, he doesnt need this till the start of the next one next march/april. if ic ant get the part its just gonna be a rebuild of the diff, which will put it out of action for a week!

no all the spraying equipment, pod, boom tank, pump etc will all be coming off and then ill be putting a chest on the back to put my gear in. Ive used a quarter tank today, been 2 places, done no more than 50 miles! It needs a new rear diff, with it being an import, there arent any ANYWHERE

godfinger is a good one! angry birds and doodle jump are addictive and good for passing time at breaks!

in a few days, this will be mine for playing in imported hilux 3L diesel, uprated suspension, the tank on the back is 1000l and is full in those pictures. Its great!

i shall be there, maybe on my todd, the better half may come with me if i manage to persuade her to camp!

Chris you could also go through Sue at millhouse training. They are based in skelmersdale across the road from the nfu office. Sorted everything out well and had plenty of info and good instructor choice. Always had the instructors you would want as assessors which made it better!

Haha mr Stephen you make me laugh! I don't know about the bionic part. I've never liked the gym for some reason. Just doesn't feel like my place. I prefer to climb! Or even swim or ride my bike. I'm not even expecting to be that busy doing this. Just an extra 20 quid here an there will do me. One a week will run my car for half a week. Which I'd be happy for.

Just don't put the chain on backwards! You'll never get them sharp that way! If you use a square edged stone you can do depth gauges aswell. Set it to the proper height you need and a bit more And there's them done too!

at the bottom where you place the chain you want it to read 25 or 30 degrees depending on the chain, 30 is usually ok for most chains. Look to the side of that, it goes up in 10 degree increments, you want to set it 10 degrees each way for each side of the chain, so the grinder will be grinding at an angle of 10 degrees. at the back is the angle of the grinding stone itself, it goes from 90 to 45 or somthing i think, i found 50/60 was enough to give a curve on the cutter but not too much to undercut it and leave a hook. the screw on the top of the moving 'head' is the limiter screw, use that to adjust your depth of the grinding before it stops, best to adjust this for each chain . As you start each chain, set the grinder to take the right amount off the first one, assuming all the angles are correct (55 degs on the back, 10 on the side and 30 on the front) all you have to do is change the limiter screw and how much the grinder will take off. dont try and do half a cutter at once, you will just knacker up the chain straight away. Its best to do it in little bits and just take an edge off until the damage has gone. After its set to do one right, leave it, and just move the chain, it will file each chain to the same length. Plus it will make you think its doing it unevenly by taking more off one cutter than another, but thats just showing upo your own bad hand sharpening or someone elses! Trust me!

I agree with the other people but agree with you also, beech are my favourite trees, theres just something about them! But when there is a large amount of copper/purple beech in one area it darkens the area too much. Ive observed down at the local cemetary, there are a few 'normal' beeches and a few copper beeches, including one impressive copper beech, (almost perfectly symettrical, open grown and unmanaged, how it should be.) The copper beechs havent grown as large as the others, would this be due to the lower ratio of chlorophyll to carotin, whereas the normal beech have green leaves and hence a much higher ratio enabling them to photosynthesise more efficiently?

i did mine over at croxteth hall liverpool, some nice big sycamores there, enough to use up a 45m rope!

A while ago, about april, i was carrying my silver bull kit bag to the base of a tree, i put it down using the rucksack strap and as it went from my shoulder into my hand to put it on the floor the stitching along the bottom of the bag ripped out, which was highly fustrating as this was meant to be a tough wearing bag! I can use it if i clip a carabiner to the bottom of the strap and through the tie down metal rings either side, but its more of a nuisance as when the straps are out they hang down a lot and get caught on everything. I woudlnt expect this from a bag like this, especially a silver bull one! Probably a silly question but do freeworker.de deal wtih anybody in english? i know minimal german and a translator doesnt always choose the best words.

yeah but arbtalk gives me answers on what i ask for, google finds a lot, although i do know how to find what i need, its late and im tired. Plus theres trees here!

It's only another reason to look really flash and pro! A £529 reason if you want the 3G though!

Pardon my ignorance but sequestered iron? It's in a back garden and it gets reasonable sunlight but I'll tell the lady to find something for shade. Is it a virus of some kind or just a mould? Or are they the same thing?

That was a concern also. Keep the stuff safe or maximise advertising. I'm not all too keen on doing it full time or even for it taking up my spare time. As I prefer to tinker when I've got nothing else to do.

it is just like a sort of sooty mould, its dry on the leaves and will come off with a rub of your finger what would cause it? excessivly alkaline soil?

I had heard of this from college but never seen it, it was hopefully going to get pruned out, i was only there briefly. thought id take a picture. ive seen copper beech trying to revert aswell

Ive been asked about this disease that is on this shrub for a customer, im unsure of the species, she said it was a Flame of the Forest, a Pieris 'Forest Flame' She noticed it had a black deposit on almost all of the leaves late last year, and some of the newly emerging foliage has started to get it aswell. Thanks a lot

Saw this whilst helping to take down a conifer, thought i was rather interesting! An A. platanoides 'Drummondii' which had a branch deciding not to bother with conforming!

Plus the b& brigade won't exactly know what is the best sharpening technique and the grinder does a good job anyway. The only tool I need is a compressor.

If your bath has a shower head and the showerhead has a 'jet' setting use that on nice and warm. It will turn the sap to goo and it will all come out nicely plus the power of the water gets between the fibres and makes it sparkly new. Works with normal ropes aswell and make them come out really well!