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Tony Croft aka hamadryad

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Everything posted by Tony Croft aka hamadryad

  1. The big beech from the first page, 3 years growth, now, what did I say about proving my point over the years! very little extension, but a great deal of internal budding and ramification. For some reason I am never close by when she is in leaf! though its good bare for illustration purposes.
  2. hadnt really thought about it like that,
  3. would be interested to hear anyones usage levels with a gas fired oven as well? im going over to a log stove/boiler combo soon this could mean propane gets me off the gas line altogether:thumbup1:
  4. used this saw with a ten inch bar to reduce a truly massive beech the other day, 10 inch cuts in a few laces mostly 4-5inches. I was MUCH better with a 10 inch bar, and I think it is my new all time fave saw!
  5. so glad to hear its not getting felled, be a good roost site as a pollard too
  6. well you can include monocultured forests and avenues to that definition, the laws an ass because one can use enterpretation
  7. Yes accses to the facility is open to members of the BMS during the open day as long as its arranged before hand:thumbup1:
  8. gibossa has more blocky/angular pores in general not ruling it out, it cant be Bjerkandera Fumosa either the big bro of adusta, as there is no dark line above the pores
  9. nice addition to the thread that one, long term documentations are the way forward, thanks for posting. dont think you really did it much harder than last time, and I would personaly have brought the sides in a bit more in both counts for two reasons, one to get more light in round a smaller overall profile, and two to make climbing easier on a return visit as a broad crown is much harder to work
  10. I know about this one, a corporation immune from prosecutions,
  11. This video is awesome, and totaly inspiring, best lecture, community/sustainability solutions ive ever heard [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6b7zJ-hx_c]Redesigning Civilization -- with Permaculture - YouTube[/ame]
  12. Im not as bonkers as you think, I may play the part at times, its fun to play with it. The Fall of the Dollar - The Death of a Fiat Currency part 1 - YouTube
  13. and for those that was interested in the way i started my spuds off, the egg boxes proved inferior, got some lovely shoots and roots coming off the soiled ones and no shriveling on them either, seems far better for an early start. my peas and cabbages are off to a flying start but desperatley want them out in the garden, the cold is doing my nut!
  14. Ive seen a lot of references to this pumice/rockdust supplement and it all seems to add up. Would make sense as its a more readily avaliable mineral content, though its really only needed if there is deficiencies, over introduction of elements tip the other way so always worth checking out whether or not your soil or rather plants are deficient, not as complicated or expensie as you might think.
  15. for me, the Ailanthus nigra is an impressive site, close to the lake
  16. there is always going to be some spores on a dry old bracket:thumbup:
  17. im only just getting into the cultivation side of things so :thumbup1:you top me!
  18. importing woodchip from abroad? i can tell you thats going to open the door to all manner of ilegal shipments, and is ridiculous on miles alone
  19. th OP doesnt want trans-location via root grafts (highly likely) Pluerotus is omni present, so introductions will only be of a foreign strain to the environment no issues there, there are loads of escapees in the wild from farms for domestic markets. they will have the disred result eventualy, but better would be polyporus squamosus and a stump to feed on, say 2ft hi ring barked at ground level (IMO)
  20. I didnt make it clear earlier that im not 100% on hispidus, that indeed dryophilus is a good suspect having had to look it up as im not personaly familiar with that species of inonotus. also Hispidus is known to take residence on quercus cerris, which as we also know houses other fungi not commonly associated with our native white oaks
  21. So the fungus has thus far consumed all but the most hydrated woody cylinder. I would suggest as long as you can manage the mechanical aspects of the tree form it will be able to live for some time, will now depend on quality of growing conditions, what the tree has in order to continue growing and adapting to mechanical loads. remove too much foliage without addressing soil deficiencies and the fungi wins most likely

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