stuartc44
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Everything posted by stuartc44
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Thanks for that spudulike, will try checking again for air leaks. 4 stroking is a raspy blubbering sound when running at full throttle. for more info look here... Saw Carb Tuning
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The four stroke sound indicates that the saw is running a slightly rich mixture, this is for setting the high jet without a tachometer. A richer mixture is obviously better than a slightly lean mixture which would probably seize the engine.
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Hi everyone, I have a Stihl 026, year 2000, which seems to have a small problem. I have tuned the saw to give a 'four stroke' sound at full revs which clears when cutting larger pieces of wood and the engine picks up quickly without spluttering. After a quarter of a tank or so the engine speed will remain on a fast tick over with the chain turning after cutting, and sounds to be running leaner on full revs when not cutting. I have tried opening the fuel cap to release any vacuum but no difference. I have checked the fuel line, filter, impulse hose, carb manifold, new carb kit has been fitted, new stihl crank seals fitted and new spark plug. When starting the saw with the choke it will fire after about five or six pulls and continue to run, not just fire and then have to use half choke as normal. Is it possible it is a carb problem or does anyone have any other ideas? Stuart.
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I had the same problem on a ms260, replacing the linkage between the brake handle and brake band solved it, don't know how much, the parts are but fairly simple to fit yourself. Hope this helps.
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Any other losers like me?CS31 not going too well ):
stuartc44 replied to odd_bird's topic in General chat
When putting the gob in try to visualize what you want it to look like. CS31 doesn't mean you are brilliant at felling trees, it means you know what you need to do, what to do if it goes wrong and you can do it safely! Take your time think before you cut, its so easy to rush in without thinking. Good luck!! -
Found the same spikes new price £255 with standard buckles and another site £80 +vat for velcro wraps. Based on that not too bad a price, but I would not be happy as thats not my idea of 'as new, with wraps that were used but in good condition'. I would try for refund.
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I recently bought one of these from Rouse Power Equipment, Aylsham. Has a little more weight and the shape of the head makes splitting easier. Find it good for splitting some larger bits down also.
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Listing says selling due to change of work. When you check his feedback he has sold quite a large number of saws, hedge trimmers and strimmers, must have had a large company!!!
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Just asked when the next loler is due,- "hi, we cant find the certificates so not sure when due", came the reply! If somebody did buy it and had an accident due to the equipment being unsafe, whether competent or not, would the seller be legally responsible? Stuart.
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I found the knut hitch would occasionally tighten and jam but when working I much preferred it to a blakes or distel, really didn't like the vt. Tried the michocan today, I use 8mm armor prus and yale xtc plus with a hitch climber pulley. Found it to be the best I have used so far, subject to further testing, it grabs reliably and smooth descents. Will definitely be using the michocan for now!
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What happens if you just open the filler cap and close it again without adding fuel? If that works probably tank vent? If not is fuel pick up pipe free to move about / blocked?
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When it stalls try opening the fuel cap and listen for a faint hissing. If you do hear something, or not, if it starts and runs ok again for a while you will need to check the fuel tank vent as it may well be blocked causing a vacuum in the tank and therefore fuel starvation.
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When opening up the exhaust be sure to check the fuel mixture / re-tune the carb, as you usually end up with a saw that is running slightly leaner due to increased air flow. Lean saws run hotter and good possibility of seizing.
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Thanks High Scale, I still need to get everything tighter at the throat and a little neater but definitely improving. It is all made to look so easy on this site:- Rigging 101~ Liverpool wire rope splice - a set on Flickr I also thought about making a wire core flip line. Most marine places can crimp an aluminum ferule on to make the eye that they say is as strong as the wire. This may well be but a splice is more easily inspected and without the ferule joint being proved to me I would prefer a hand splice. I have found that removing the core from some xtc plus and threading the wire back in, it dosen't need much to hold every thing in place. Glue seems to hold fine and also like the idea of a crimp, I think some of the ones used on LV jointing look about the right size but not tried yet. If you do give it a try definitely wear at least one glove, (I learnt this early on), and found a screwdriver ground to a flattened point works ok for this 6mm 7x7 wire.
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I wasn't up 'first thing', but trying to improve my splicing. I think holding the wire and thimble in a vice will help to get it all tighter and neater at the throat.
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Never used these instructions or tenex before, but these look like they could be what you are looking for. http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/Eye_and_Eye_Tail_Splice.pdf Stuart.
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Done a few 16 strand using yale xtc plus. I use 1mm fencing wire for a pulling fid tied down to something solid and find it fairly easy on new rope. Also just tried using a 4mm crochet hook for removing the core as suggested on another site. It seemed to work best for the first half of the strands but a little tricky getting the last ones. Just take your time.
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Thank you for your post Nigel. The reasons for wanting a spliced eye in the rope were, looks a lot neater, highly unlikely to come undone, or be tied wrongly and originally to be stronger than a knot as I believe the case would normally be. This rope is to be used for pulling vehicles out after getting stuck etc. if it were a climbing rope I would only have spliced it using the manufacturers instructions and to be used for myself. As for lowering / rigging, even if there were manufacturers instructions I would not have spliced it at all as it would be putting other peoples lives in danger. As it is when the rope does break looks like I will be going back to knots. If there were courses to become a competent splicer, and the splices were tested and marked, then maybe things would be different. Thanks again, Stuart.
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Thanks Jamie for the offer, I will try and get some shorter pieces to mess about with. Further to my last post I have tried a tuck splice and produced this... Then earlier today I received an email... Hi Staurt, Yale Cordage has passed me your details regarding your issue with Splicing XTC12. Unfortunately this product cannot be spliced and all attempts to do so will result in a failure. Sorry for the bad news. Regards, Nigel Fletcher Director Fletcher Stewart (Stockport) Limited
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Hi, Is this what you are looking for? http://www.deltasupplyco.com/manuals/STIHL/KM%2085.pdf Stuart.
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I did have a similar problem on my car, draining the coolant and flushing the radiator through both ends with a hose pipe to clean it seems to have fixed it. Might be worth a try.
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Thanks Peter, did try those instructions as well, just got to the stage where the taper ends then everything stops. I'm almost convinced that it can't be done by hand due to the tightness of the braid, which leaves machine as suggested by Cleetus, or tuck splice?
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I did have it tied down, in frustration I even tied the tail to the work truck and tied a loop around the tail onto my car and pulled, while the tension was on I bent the splice back and forth, left and right but couldn't get it too go any further. Would a tuck splice be the way to go? 12-Strand Eye Tuck
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Hi, I have been trying to splice some xtc 12 without success. I have tried the instructions on yale's and samson's website for 12 strand hollow braid but cannot get the last few inches of rope to bury as it gets too tight. Does anyone know if either of these instructions are the correct ones or should I use a tucking splice for round plait rope. Stuart.
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Pulling a trailer with tracked chipper
stuartc44 replied to T14EES T14UNK's topic in Large equipment
We got a well overloaded transit stuck in sand at the entrance to a field, the timberwolf tracked chipper, a 150 I think, didn't even notice it was there when it pulled it out.
