stuartc44
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Everything posted by stuartc44
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Have you run the saw? Could be a tight rivet, slight kink in the chain which fits nicely on the sprocket thus giving a little more slack? If so running the saw should free up the rivet.
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I have one of these.. coleman Exponent duel fuel stove :: Army Navy Store Run it on unleaded petrol, a lot cheaper than buying gas cans.
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I would try BTS Group who are in Needham Market, there number is 01449 720330. I do work for them but I am based in North Norfolk, they might need some where to tip. Stuart.
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Is this the same as yours? Rare 20p coin sells for £7,100 on eBay (that's 35,500 times its face value) | Mail Online
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Private message sent.
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Hi, Spikes should only be used when the tree is being removed or in rescue situations, as damage to the tree will create an entry point for infection. Spikes are quite often found on ebay, but someone here may well be selling some.
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I reckon it's poplar.
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Private message sent.
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It was the part marked 2 here.
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Yes, did have similar thing on ms260, can't remember if it got worse when the saw was warmer or not. I replaced the thing the spring connects to (not the brake band), if I remember right it looks a bit like a piece of bicycle chain and all was well again.
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The impulse pipe connects the crankcase to the carburettor. The changes in pressure in the crankcase, when the engine is turned over, cause a pulse in the pipe which acts upon the diaphragms in the carburettor to pump the petrol at the required rate. I believe that is the basics of it. If not it won't be too long before I am corrected. (You got there first!)
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A lot of stuff already has a identifying number on it. I think most petzl stuff does, and my pulleys and lyon slings have been lolered without adding any markings just the numbers already on them.
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Sorry, I meant turning them into poles. Taking them down so they are below power lines before felling. I know the majority of trees will have an anchor point below the height of the lines but just wanted to explore other possibilities for when the situation arises. Always looking to try new ideas.
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We should have a job coming up which will be getting a number of trees topped ready for felling so will definitely give it a try.
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I was thinking that using the technique in the video in the 'Sirius ringloop?' thread, after topping a tree for removal, I could descend from the tree and retrieve my rope ready for felling at a later time.
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So a figure 8 connected to the bridge and a long prussik loop above the figure 8 would be a good / cost effective choice. Thanks for the explanations, does make sense now. Stuart.
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I had heard somewhere before and on the video linked to on the 'Sirius ringloop?' thread that it is not good to descend with a hitch on a single rope and a second device, figure 8 etc, should be used. Why is this, and why so different to double rope?
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If I understand what you mean, this should help: Cover taperd ready to insert. The fid I use is just some 1mm fencing wire, I will be getting some piano wire soon. Rope in fid, if you have too much trapped in the wire it just makes it harder to pull through. I find as it is in the picture is about right. Only cut the strands off when they are ready to disapear into the rope. And so on.... The instructions I follow can be found here: http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/16S_C1_EyeSpl.pdf Hope this helps.
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Did you cut the cover strands as you pulled them out? The instructions I follow suggest pulling the strands out but not cutting until they are about to disappear back into the rope. This helps every thing keep it's shape.
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I would have thought that a piece of wire rope that would have a breaking strength of at least 2 tonnes would show some signs of weakness, limpness for example, to break under one persons body weight, if it was being used as a side strop it wouldn't even be full body weight.
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I might be wrong but doesn't that apply to all new installations.
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Duplex and Triplex Services, ABC single phase services, Single and two phase open wire services and Concentric services can all be described by, "it has a powerline running under it which goes to the house" If you don't know what it is and what you are doing stay away until the power is off.
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I use 1mm fencing wire, I have had it break once or twice. Some ropes are easier than others but as BenR said there are ways of making it easier like taking your time and forcing the rope too much.
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Yes, manual says 50:1
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The low should be 1 3/4 turns and the high 1 turn out.
