JaySmith

It’s heavy going that document! When I did my L4 there was a small section on road salt and the negative affects that it causes. Most people see the conifer hedge that has brown foliage at low level from road salt spray but the damage it can do to large mature trees is also a consideration. This was another doc I used, it also has a list of species which are tolerant and those that aren’t which is interesting and should maybe be looked at when specifying tree planting adjacent to the highway as we seem to be gritting more and more nowadays https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/4974/pathology_note11.pdf

FC did a paper years ago which I looked at when doing an assignment https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/6572/FCBU101.pdf Think there is a bit in Diagnosis of Ill health in trees as well but haven’t got the book to hand

I’ve got a Silver Bull bag. Had it for about 10 years and still going strong. Made of decent quality plastic and has stood the test of time. They aren’t cheap but then they do last. I get all of my kit i there but not a lid. Prior to this I’d had fabric type bags and they didn’t last. Silver Bull Multiuse Kit Bag | Honey Brothers HONEYBROS.COM Silver Bull Multiuse Kit Bag from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry.

It’s one of the harder courses IMO to pass and rightly so. However if you have a good understanding of rigging and climbing equipment and a decent amount of industry experience then you’d be fine. You aren’t expected to know about every piece of kit on the market but if you don’t know the difference between a climbing rope and a rigging rope then it’s maybe not for you. There is a fair bit of legislation to get through as well as calculations such as MBS, SWL, WLL etc. Download the NPTC schedule and have a read through it. Start keeping all of the docs that come with the various ropes, leave, pulleys etc so you have the info you need on hand. It’s probably not the most exciting course you’ll do and inspecting kit after kit after kit isn’t the most fun but you can earn money from it and supplement your income.

Bit harsh! The Training Tree have a great team who deliver the course but obviously haven’t been around as long as TreeLife and the (well deserved) reputation. Having been through TT I would recommend them, never used TL but would do so for my L6 as I know they are held in high regard

I can’t comment on TreeLife as I’ve not personally used them but would do for my L6 and know they get great reviews and many on here have been through their training courses. I did my L4 with Training Tree about four or five years ago and was on one of their first courses. Normally with new courses or providers there may be teething problems but this wasn’t the case and the course was very well delivered and administered. The course was led by Lisa Sanderson who has a wealth of Arb experience having work around the world in different capacities and is an excellent teacher. The course was very well delivered and I’ve nothing but good feedback to give on it and would definitely use the Training Tree again. I did mine over about 10 - 12 months from memory and it was very intense and meant lots of late nights and weekends taken up with assignments but extremely worthwhile. I opted for the ‘taught’ option where you would go to lectures once very three or four weeks which IMO really helped, however I have heard of good reports on their online offering. They have a good team and would frequently bring in guest lecturers like Andy Poynter and Jack Kenyon who are well known and rightfully respected in their own rights. I would call both of the providers and have a chat, make a list of questions that are important to you and ask them. Weigh up the options and go with your gut, as I say both providers get great reviews. I think whichever provider you choose you will be in good hands, just go into it with an open mind as the course requires a great deal of time and commitment. Happy to answer any questions you many have if you think of anything

I think supplies are running low in some places. This coincides with people being at home more and using their log burners/stoves. Personally I’ve burnt more this year as my other half is at home at the moment on furlough and she likes the house a tropical 24 degrees, she’s burning the wood quicker than I’m cutting it. Over the last couple of years I seem to be taking less large trees down and more reductions and smaller tree work so less timber about maybe

I’ve been on grillon for about 8 years. Just replaced one as it failed loler, I’m finding the new one doesn’t feed anywhere near as nicely as the old one and also struggles a lot more with sap on the rope. Going to move across to the Art positioner as I’m a big fan of their other gear

He probably has a processor like a hakki pilke and wants to process timber economically rather than knotty arb waste with every peg and ‘handle’ left on it!

Everybody who I speak to who sells logs says how busy they’ve been and had a big increase in sales. This coincides with people being home more and using the log burner that would normally only get wheeled out at weekends when it was Baltic or at Xmas. As log burners aren’t isn’t heat like central heating people often see them as a chore, with people at home more they are using them more as they have the time. When out working the log pixies are out in force more as they can wonder over the road and ask for the wood as they are working from home. Watched a guy load some quality willow into the back of an Audi Rs4 the other day[emoji15]

Sounds similar to the route I have taken. I did a L2 apprenticeship then RFS Cert Arb (L2). Followed this up with L4 Dip Arb with The Training Tree. Course was very good and I would recommend them. Hard work balancing course work, lectures and working/climbing. As Steve said TreeLife also offer the L4 and get great reviews, have never used TreeLife personally but would happily recommend The Training Tree.

If the client was open to trying to retain the tree I would go for a reduction personally. I’ve reduced a fair few mature Ash that are suffering from Chalara and most seem to be responding well. I was sceptical of reducing some as felt the reduction and the potential stresses could be the final nail in the coffin. The tree doesn’t look like it has a great deal of targets around it but obviously the risk factor and usage of the area below the tree would be a factor in either a fell or reduction decision

Same as Treerover on all but one occasion I’ve just used the chains off the crane jib. On one occasion with a tracked crane the operator wanted me to use slings, he couldn’t explain why but it was a contract lift so went with what they said.

Tricky little reduction, pretty icy up top and tree had been heavily reduced previously and also suffered some snap outs. Aim was to rebalance and bring in the regrowth to shape as it’s in an exposed location. Tricky little climb with poor anchor points and multiple targets. Certainly not an oil painting but hopefully enough to see it last many more years.

You’ll wanna get the second job cracked out as depending on who you are working for there may well be a third job! “Just a lovely little job on the way back to the yard” [emoji23]

I’ve seen some people who use a multi saver add a small micro pulley and karabiner to the system to effectively give you a rope guide so that would be a possibility. Never tried it myself as I’ve always had a rope guide but sure someone on here will have done so

Not my firm I’m afraid so I don’t really get a say. I’m told where to go and what to do in the morning. It was all cut to growth and had a decent shape was just too harsh IMO. Apparently it’s what had been agreed with the boss when he quoted it.

I use an ART rope guide, one of the best pieces of kit money can buy for double rope climbing. You could get a cheaper standard ring to ring cambium saver but it’s the pulley for me that’s the main thing. The pulley makes long pulls almost effortless and you will certainly notice it when you don’t have it in. You still have to plan the route around the tree as friction can be generated from branches and limbs rubbing on your rope, unlike SRT where you are climbing the line. Yes it does protect the cambium of the tree and also your line. Also as others have said sap on your line can stop your hitch or mechanical devices operating properly, not so much of an issue if you use a cambium saver. You can also use it to spread the load across two smaller anchor points to allow you to anchor higher up or choke around the stem if there isn’t a natural crotch to use. Once I’ve installed mine I’ll use it all the way to the floor or when the timber gets to big for it to fit around (on a dismantle). Sure a rope guide isn’t cheap at nearly £200 upfront cost but divide that by five years and it’s just over £3 a month. For me well worth the cost.

That’s part of the skill of sales/quoting. When I quote I always ask “what are you trying to achieve?” you can’t then work out if they’d like a bit more shaping or a bit more rapeing. I used to get really hung up on doing what is right and creating the best shape etc but sometimes you have to give them the facts and advise but be realistic and give them what they want. I did a savage 4m reduction on a 10m Silver birch earlier in the week, it was too harsh but they were adamant that was what they wanted, I tired on multiple occasions to persuade them to go lighter and ended up reducing the tree twice as the first effort was too light (by their standards) I cut it to first growth but it was no oil paining, you win some and you loose some but that’s the way it goes

I think you could make that into a decent looking tree with a relatively light reduction. Did one similar recently and used a re-direct pulley to allow me to anchor high and be able to get out onto the tips. Don’t really see the need to hire a platform but if you had one in the yard you’d be silly not to use it. Obviously it would depend on the clients spec, rape and shape Vs sympathetic reduction to give a nice shape, I’d be happy to do either

Cheers, yeah mate he’s still here. Think he’s done about eight years at SL now, like part of the furniture!

Absolute pain in the arse job taking down this partially uprooted tpo’d Sweet Chestnut on a bank, had taken a battering in the recent winds and the bank was like mush. Had to lower everything off of the adjacent tree to stop things getting a roll on down the bank into the garden/house. Couldn’t really remove anything off of the tree with the rigging system in so everything that could hang up did and was a pain for the groundie on the bank. Still at least it wasn’t raining for once!

Get experience of as much gear as you can and familiarise yourself with it. I keep a folder with the dockets that come with karabiners, slings, ropes and pulleys so I have the info such as SWL, service life etc on hand if I need it. Make up a spreadsheet that you can use to record the inspection that works for you. Get your insurance in place and then advertise on the various forums to get your name out there. Message/email/call local firms to let them know what you are offering. Just be aware many will want their kit done last minute or tomorrow morning and will sometimes drop off a bag of wet crap and expect you to pass everything when you wouldn’t let your dog climb in it! Be open and honest with the client is often key to managing their expectations. Can be a useful sideline if you are moving away from climbing or just to supplement your income, especially if you can do four or more kits for one firm at one location

One handed usage is allowed under certain circumstances. I would have thought that if you did it under one of these occasions and explained what you were doing and why then the assessor would look at this and use their judgement surely?

Download the assessment schedule and have a read through that. Remember little details like decent chainsaw lanyard (without tears), ensure chainsaw is in working order little things like chain catcher and safety stickers for example. Make sure your gear has a LOLER ticket. If all the little details are in place then the instructor and then assessor are unlikely to pull your gear apart. Read up on some of the basic H&S and legislation stuff they may ask and learn a bit about target pruning as that used to come up in the schedule. Familiarise yourself with the cuts required beforehand so you have a bit of an idea before you get there as the actual climbing time under instruction may be relatively short. Have a look on YouTube at some vids. Also buy a few Lyon tape slings that you can put on your harness to help with hand held sections, they are about £8 each and handy for rigging, creating false foot holds etc. Enjoy the course, you are there to be taught and not giving the course so they don’t expect you to know everything at this stage