Billy

Thanks, mark I was a little surprised at 'just cut it' sort of comments in the thread, it's some big tangled lumps, had to release the bracing with a mix of bolt croppers and 21mm sockets. Cool job, can't say I particularly enjoyed it though

Did this job today, due to the proximity to the building it was very tricky and needed all the kit. Here's a few pics

Got a nice Vermeer 625i for you, pm or text for details 07505134004

The bracing has done very little in my opinion, the limb was being supported I think but the bracing had snapped, there are a few other snapped braces in the tree also. Those saying move the heras fencing and drop it, the land behind the tree does not belong to the developers and apparently the owners are not so friendly, plus there is some wooden fencing, mostly just posts that can't be damaged. The other side, very close by is the scaffolding and new building the pictures were taken from which is well within the danger zone if I 'just drop it'. No Mick, this is in Roehampton West London

Haha, nice Tom, unfortunately the scaffolding is well within striking distance. Im planning on setting up a pulley and winching the big bit up to remove the compression then knock lumps off in relative safely. The other bit on the bracing just tie it off to secure it, then cut n drop the rest. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?psw0a3

Big torn out bit of Cedar balanced on what left of the union and the ground, and another hanging piece. The hanging piece is on what's left of the bracing, that will be pretty straight forward but the big curved bit is another matter. I have a plan but would be interested to here some other ideas. The pics from above are taken from scaffolding on the building that's nearby. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?tmdiu4

Spare time? I used to race bikes now it just gets in the way when we're loading up of a morning!

Why was the limb that came back tied so high?

Schoolboy error, even a half decent operator would stop after an inch or two of lift and counter that. Ah well, he learned the hard way :-)

Yes it is, all good I'm quite pleased/surprised with it performance wise, very good and low box has been a god send on some of the steeper hills round here when the trailer is loaded up! The Chip box isn't the biggest but it's plenty big enough for small to medium jobs, it still holds far more than the legal payload of any transit/Iveco tipper, and holds it legally. However, on the big jobs the landy tows the ifor and I bring the chipper out on the L200 so it works very well and we rarely have to leave site to tip with that set up. Think I'll stick with this set of kit for a while got 4t of payload altogether plus whatever fits I the bed of the pick up, and it's very flexible I like it :-)

L200 tipper would have an even worse payload than a transit! Just buy another truck, preferably a tipper and keep the L200 for doing quotes and towing the chipper to bigger jobs --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?txfvj1

Yeah another vehicles required with the trailer option. I have a landy tipper and a tt105 on big jobs we take that set up and the L200 tows the chipper, it works well and keeps the weights all legal.

Pick ups don't really cut it, unless you don't get through a lot of work in a day, or your customers nearly always keep the rubbish, out of the lot gotta be the transit/Iveco/ cab star or landy tipper if you can afford it and really need 4x4. Or a 4x4 and big tipping trailer.

I picked up a defender quite recently and noticed one of the rear spring mounts on the axle was quite badly rusted, due to a big job coming up requiring a long journey loaded with a big trailer also fully loaded I thought it was worth replacing, also one of the rear helper springs seemed to be lacking a retainer. As I struggled to find illustrations for this job with the helper springs I thought it might be useful to post on here with some pictures of what I did, for people maintaining what they have, or upgrading their standard springs. First jacked up by the axle then stuck an axle stand under the chassis, removed the wheel and let the jack down slightly. Then the damper was removed from the axle and pushed out of the way. Once the damper is undone the jack can be let right down to let the axle hang, the springs fell out of the top mounts after a few taps, my spring retainers were in a bad way the one for the helper spring wasn't there and the other was being held in by some bolts that had seen far better days. My dampers although aftermarket are quite elderly and whilst dismantling the other side, the thread snapped off the bottom of the shock which was a right PITA being a bank holiday weekend and having work on Monday. This problem was overcome by cutting to a point then welding the bits together and tapping a new thread into the weld. Best o take it slow with plenty of WD though and avoid this completely! Tis reveals they spring seat itself with a few big holes in and the welds were starting to rot away at the sides too I cleaned this off to fully assess the damage with a knotted wire wheel then cut it all off, after cutting the axle, to mark the correct position to attach the new seat, it's worth noting it's very easy to catch the brake line whilst doing this, best to unveil it and bend it as far out the way as possible. Next i Cleaned up the remains of the old seat then stuck a new one on aligned with the cuts I made whilst the old one was in position and welded that on Once the new seat is on, as no dealers or other LR parts outlet seemed to have a clue how this stuff went together, even the ones who sold me it! I had to figure out how to put them together. It appeared that the best order to fit the new retainers was main spring retainer, followed by the retaining bar with a single washer on each screw hole then the helper spring retainer on top of that. I purchased some 30mm bolts to fit through this combination, the stock ones are far too short. The original seats had captive nuts on the underside, I didn't weld new nuts on to my seat to aid assembly. The first retainer and the retaining bar for the main spring with washers, the helper spring retainer shown below drops over the top of this along with the two bolts. With all this lot built on the floor and the new seat in position without captive nuts you can just drop it straight onto the spring seat then do the nuts up onto the protruding bolts, I didn't bother tacking the nuts to the seat after as I don't see it being beneficial. Now it just needs jacking back up into the top mount and the shock and wheel replacing. Simpler enough job to do hopefully these pictures will be of use to someone on here one day :-)

Still waiting on that PM or E-mail with your details in it mate.

Oh yes if you just confirm through ifor it's easy but it doesn't end there, they don't have access to the PNC which is what counts. They only know if the owner made the effort to tell them, and I'm sure many don't.

1000-1200, however I'd use your own truck to get the waste away, I looked into big skips on a few jobs and the price was prohibitive. Alternatively, find someone with a set up that can remove more chip per trip, if your in Kent I could probably help you out with it. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?mxgi3a

Inbox should be clear now mate, fire away please

Im after a roof rack for my 110 tipper however I can't find any of the cab only tipper type ones on eBay, can one one point me in the right direction, or sell me theirs?

Does anyone on here attend a BNI chapter? If so how long for and has it been good for business? I attended my first one as a guest last week and thought it seemed like a good way to generate business. Would've interested to hear some others opinions on its effectiveness.

No worries, I've used far worse

Straight out the box mine was far superior, purchase from a good dealer and you won't look back the 201t is a far superior saw

Yes, I do