Husky D
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Everything posted by Husky D
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Thought i had a workshop manual but turns out its just the IPL sorry. Maybe of some use to see order of assembly? Any pics if not? Can't upload it sorry database error? send me a pm mate of e mail and I'll try send it that way if you want it
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Ah that takes me back! One of my first saws i used at my first employment. Im not sure if when they first came out (early 90's?)Went like the clappers in small conifer but choke lever used to break so had to have it wired up but lovely little saw that we run alongside the good old dependable jonsered 630's. Very underated saw like the 365 just a good plodder that did everything but with no frills or bells or whistles. Kindlett not sure why you think huskies are any more plasticky than any saws out there imo. I've been running a demo 50cc makita for the last 12 months and wouldnt say its any different to most. Most are going over to plastic or composites of some type but can't say any manufacturer is better than one over another.
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Just to add something else to an already mixed up mix! Agree that the 346 is a great saw but think that the 365 is a very underrated saw. Doesn't get classed as a pro saw but has good strength and reliability and been around for long enough now. I know its not the lightest but can run a 15" bar and balances well with it or turns an 18" easy being in the 60cc bracket and good grunt for hardwood cutting. Yes it doesn't have the top end that a 372 has but then doesn't carry the price tag either! Afriend of mine is cutting hardwood with one at the minute and felled some big stuff with it and is well impressed with it. Only an opinion and as others say price may dictate or whatever just "feels right" to you. Happy shopping!
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Sorry if its stuff people know or similar to what TCD put up but if its of any interest for bar ident. James cheers for the pm will hopefully be in contact soon Oregon bar ident.pdf
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Never had a cundy peeler but used a Cembro (think that was what it was called!) but the cundy was a better design as it had wheels to take the posts through easier. We used to peel some pretty beefy straining posts but because of the length of the poles could you rig up atable or frame to support the weight and even load by crane if you were looking to do it big scale.
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Hi YP If you want to become an assessor then contact NPTC to discuss it with them NPTC | Home or if its the training your looking to do you can follow the Lantra link and look at how to become and instructor off the tab Lantra Awards UK - Environmental & Land Based Vocational Training Courses . To become an instructor will cost a fair bit of time and money but if you've got the feeling for it then have a look. There are a few instructors and assessors on here (arbocop) is one who will give you so good advice im sure.
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Why do lions get lost? Because jungle is massive!
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Whether you decide to train or not is up to you but if you did would it not be better to teach them how to sharpen and maintain to a basic level before operation. Many errors could be corrected during this making cutting safer, easier and allow positive confidence in a machine from a greater understanding?
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Here are a few to try perhaps click-forestry-directory . Phil Cooper was one I was going to suggest but he is on the link
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John what do you mean put a picture of ourselves in our avatar im already there, i'm the one on the left!
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Hi Stevie, I see on the making chains thread you said you had a spinner and breaker you might sell on. Have you still got them mate and if so how much did you want for them?
Cheers Dan
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I thought oregon chisel chain was supposed to be sharpened at 25 degree's but stihls all are sharpened at 30 (not ripping) Using the rollers on stihl chain as Bob says will alter the angle as its got a built in back angle of 10 degree's and i thought they were also chain specific as well as pitch regarding top plate angle. Would using an incorrect one surely not alter side plate angle which is where the hard work is done by the cutter? I always thought chisel chain was good for hardwoods and semi for soft but certainly wouldn't say you couldn't use either on either but personnel preference or saw power may dictate what you use. If your unsure just buy a generic file and guide and add or remove back angle or top plate angle as and when you need. Canal Navvy where are you based as I have no problems getting 5.2mm (13/64ths) files so tell your dealer they are out there! Alot of people will just use a 7/32 file but i found you can't gullet the cutter as good when it starts to get shorter as you file it back so usually drop down to a 3/16ths to help with this although probably not recommended if you can get the proper files.
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Do you have the newer style clutches on your huskies with the two notches cut out of them as I just find the compression at the top of the piston stroke by turning the clutch and then use a combi spanner and a persuader (hammer!) and shock them off. Seems harsh but nothing internally being stopped moving anywhere it wouldn't normally and convenient for in field use if you don't have the use of an airline. They even put arrows on them to show you the way to hit them:001_smile:! P.S Make sure the decompression button is out otherwise trying to find decompression might take some time:blushing:
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My advice would be to start your felling bore cut further back as most people try to bore and set their hinge in one go. By boring in slightly further back it allows you to take the saw forward towards your hinging point and allows you to get parallel with your sink in a more controlled way. When cutting "smaller" mediums be careful not to try to spin around the tree to quickly and dip the nose through the back of your hinge but take the saw much further back before rotating around. If you are felling tree's not a great deal over guide bar length the tendancy is for many people to bore in their full guide bar length and the rotate the saw round the tree leaving the tree held on by very little and could be prone to going early (backwards or forwards) rather than boring enough out to make the cut easier from the far side but leaving enough to leave stability in the stem and allow you to set wedges or consider options if things happen to change (gust of wind etc) Not golden rules just what works for me hope it helps and good luck for your assessment.
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We calculate tounge/nose weight when we train ATV trailer use to try to show why handling can be affected. When people load up the trailer they tend to know to put most of the weight over the axles but balance it too well and you get a negative weight on the ball hitch and leads to what we call the "tail wagging the dog" (ever followed that snaking caravan!) Many of the Atv's can only have a nose weight of around 14kg so it means arranging weight carefully.
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As my wife has just suggested - Arb talk, there to help you through your impending divorce!
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Andy you might already have it but if not here is the link for Lantra instructor process. http://www.lantra-awards.co.uk/faq/faq_ins.aspx I wish you well if you decide to follow this and as mentioned by fox forestry it can be very rewarding but equally frustrating at times! I was very lucky to have my costs paid for by my employer but it is was still frustrating the hoops you have to jump through time wise and different to some peoples thoughts they are ongoing with updates or verifications and you can be spot checked at any time which is fine by me as it makes you do your very best at all times which is how it should be. As for the adage of those who can do those who can't teach (as my so called mates remind me all the time) it is a big difference to being on a course to actually running one! Good luck mate
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Gimmer I have a copy but it won't upload. Send me a pm and I cansee if I can E-mail it if you want.
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A good technical guide for info but too large for me to upload sorry! Go to http://www.forestry.gov.uk and put winching into the search option and should come up. Would have put the full link up but didn't seem to work, perhaps that why I just cut tree's down:confused1:
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yes unfortunately some people do fail but not everyone is suited to saw work and some think its easy.I assess as well and its not a nice job when you have to fail someone but you need to think long and hard about putting your name to a certificate that allows that person to use that equipment on their own.
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yes i certainly looked at it as an addition to skills but im still only 35 and really miss the commercial side of wood work sometimes. At least with training i still keep outdoors and its great when not only does someone learn how to use a saw safely but you can eduacate them into why we do forest operations and there purpose.
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Hi David, sorry meant everything like illness and family probs seem to be hassle at the moment.Used to be an under forester on a small estate on the edge of the cotswolds for 10-11 years and then went self -employed. Now turned to the darkside according to some on this site as I now train chainsaw use but still do odd jobs felling for different people when time permits. once sawdust gets in the blood you just can't give it up!
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I know of Paul by name from over the years but no its not his.
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Hi David thanks for the welcome to the group sorry its late in coming everything seems to be against me at the moment. After working in the woods should be used to it really!
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Not mine unfortunately but nice when I get to play on her now and again:001_smile:
