Husky D

As you are using a file guide are you keeping it in contact with the top plate and the depth gauge? If you don't rock the guide forward onto the depth gauge the profile you see on the top plate will still be correct but the file will not sit down into the gullet as it should and will lead to the side plate angle being opened up as you have experienced and worse case ends up with a back sloping tooth. If necessary take off the guide and file into the gullet slighty to open it up more then replace the guide and try again but this time with the two contact points. If you sharpen free hand the file naturally tends to drop further down into the gullet so what you have experienced doesn't happen as much although it can cause other problems. Hope that makes sense!

Strange definately mate!,loved my time there maybe a bit strong! Tractor driving course consisted of a rutted track to drive the county round but the ruts were so deep you didn't need to steer, the tractor took itself round and a deep hole to drive into and out of!! There was a rare old mixture of kit there though, County's, Holder's, MF, DB, Ford and Case and a big old volvo forwarder (i think) that belonged to one of the lecturers. How it survived the abuse I don't know.

Hi all, I've had Mark Hannis call me to say he has had his TP 760 chipper stolen yesterday afternoon from his yard at Winstone just off the A417 near Cirencester/Birdlip in Glos. It is a towable chipper with his name on the machine and a distinct blue tool box mounted on the chassis by the jockey wheel. He's had kit stolen twice from his house at night and this is the final straw! If anyone see's or hears anything could you please send a pm, plus a heads up to anyone local to be extra vigilent at the moment. Many Thanks D.

Have a look at the oregon maintenance manual and bar ident as it should help you find your chains pitch and gauge (page 8 i think) and the info to sharpen it and make sure its running on the right sized bar. The 25 stamped on the depth gauge refers to .025" (25 thou) and is your depth gauge setting (same as .65mm) Stihl chain is idented by the pitch being stamped on the depth gauge and the gauge on the drive link. Eg 6 on the drive link refers to 1.6mm, 3 = 1.3mm or 1 0r 5 you get the picture! If there is the letter P or PN on the depth gauge it refers to Picco or Picco narrow chain which is Stihl's 3/8 Picco (low profile ) pitch chain not full 3/8ths. Not to be confused with oregon lp chain which describes cutter type and features. All as clear as mud eh !! Oregon bar ident.pdf oregon maintenance manual.pdf

They both looked cold and snow covered when I saw them today!! Looked like that track looked a bit slippery where you pulled those last couple out. Not that I was checking out your handywork today mind:blushing:

[quote= 20 tonne a day or you didn't get paid. (4" - 14" dbh self select hardwood thinnings including pulping of brash and stacking for forwarder) Fair play TCD if you can cut 20 tonne a day, day in day out:bowdown:, I know I would be going home skint if that was the case or do you have a saw in both hands:001_tongue:

Think RB Tree has a J Red top handle which he speaks well of. I'm sure he discussed it over at MB's Tree house

Andy, I think £50-60 a day as your providing all eqpt would be a fair amount. As you said its to give someone an introduction to the job and experience that others wouldn't be willing to offer and also there have been plenty of people wanting to get in to arb work who have offered there services for free to drag brash etc just to get to see the job first hand. Forestry can be abit of a closed shop at times so to get an opportunity to "have a go" with experienced hands to watch and advise and get payed is a bonus! No your not a charity but you are trying to be fair so good on you. I think for a beginner piece rate would be unfair and encourage sloppyness or rough work just to try and make it and would probably end in tears(its bad enough for experienced people!) and your work or reputation could suffer for it. If some people think its a bit harsh to only pay £50-60 just remember as others have said experienced fellers out there might make £80-100 (unless in bigger timber)but you'd be burning 5+ litres of fuel plus oil/chains,files and travelling and be expected to turn out acceptable work, perhaps select tree's to fell, stack etc then your going back to the same ballpark as your beginner! Regarding tonnage felled in a day on some sites ive worked on if I could fell,sned or delimb and stack 7 tons a day every day i'd be happy! Log baron if your guys can easily fell 15 tons a day each then your either in some nice thinnings (do you need a hand:biggrin:) or their bloody good and need looking after!!

Use Bucklands alot and s/safety in the past both good. Bucklands don't supply climbing eqpt though. Quite a few people I know go to Lister wilder in Cirencester who seem pretty competitive or were on saw's anyway.

Hi woodpicker, sorry but he would prefer to sell roadside and not get involved with transport. If you wanted I can get you numbers for hauliers local to site otherwise sorry.

Hi woodpicker, I think he was trying to sell roadside but will speak to him tomorrow and ask him if it could be arranged.

Anybody interested in some Larch sawlogs, 12 and 14 ft lengths min TD8" and between 12-18" at the butt? Felled by a friend of mine and at roadside on Glos/Herefordshire border. Reply via forum or PM if interested and I can give you contact details.

If you were silly enough to hand it over to me!!

Don't see the point to be honest quickthorn. Although shocking the clutch off with hammer and combi looks harsh nothing is being physically held or moved where it shouldn't be. Holding on to the flywheel means removing the recoil starter cover and then trying to hold and undo things needing 3 hands and being unnecessary imo mate. Give the shock method ago apart from having to turn the clutch to find the compression and sometimes having to refind it if the clutch moves i bet you find it easy enough. Go on mate be brave:thumbup:

Yes mate it will work! The engine compression will stop the clutch spinning (make sure the decompression button is out:biggrin:) and use your combi spanner and hammer and it will shock off. I know some people use battery impact drivers but the basics work fine. Don't expect it to fall off with one light tap if it hasn't been off for a while and getting the angle of the spanner in the notch right helps to drive through the clutch rather than into the clutch if that makes sense. Definately don't try this with a piston stop in otherwise the potential for damage to the piston or the breaking/shearing of the stop in the cylinder is high. On the 254 it doesn't have the notch's for this and i wouldn't recommend to hit the clutch for fear of smashing it but thats just my opinion! I do use a stop/knotted starter cord in emergencies even on my 254 but put a spanner or socket (I think its 14 or 15mm?) on the head of the clutch and turn it until it comes tight against the stop (clockwise) and then apply slow pressure and they will give. I have got a insert to put over the centre of the clutch on 353's so you can put a spanner on them if you wanted to use a stop with it but shock them usually to be honest.

Lee, how very dare you say im not a clown - have you seen me use a saw?!

Two cannibals are eating a clown and the one turns to the other and say's, "Does yours taste funny?" Perhaps it would have been better in the crap joke thread!

Hi Eastwater. When you say you were shown letterbox for reference i take it that you didn't practice it? How did you get shown to do hung up tree's then just by an 80% cut from the side? Not a critisism on your part just surprised if you were never made too or had the opportunity to attempt it during training at all.

Bob you can get them direct from the man himself. A Tree Story: books and videos by Gerald F Beranek

Just another thought, you could always buy one of those adapters to allow you to fit stihl bar mounts onto huskies and run stihl 3/8ths bars up to 36" or splash the cash and buy a cannon! Cannon Bar Works - Adapter Plate

Agree with buzz about the farmi's. Used a 5 tonner for years and great winch and with the ratchet brake could be operated from the tractor on the move to drop and pull in again with ropes to get around obstacles without unhitching loads all the time. Basic but with winches less can be more. Fransguards are excellent also if you could find a 3-4 ton one. 6.5 tonner's are awesome for there size but probably a bit of overkill:biggrin:

I thought that husky bars only go up to 28" with a sprocket nose which is why it lists the 395 as taking that. They will as Matty said pull more (not sure about 42" mind!) but personnally wouldnt want to go on 404 pitch. Just get an 3/8 oregon bar https://www.gustharts.com/Products/Chainsaw%20Accessories/Oregon%20Guide%20Bars/36%22%20Guidebars/Product/363RNDD025%2036%22/ Only looked quick to find this for you or speak to jonesie or clarks, im sure they could sort you out.