Husky D

Have used and trained with them for years and still have them. Whilst some some saws may have seemed a little quicker or have a bit more grunt, to me they ticked all the boxes with pro features ( side tensioners/quick release top cover etc) handled well, but when we bought them didn't have the pro price. I put them in the same bracket as the 365's, solid build and do what you want without any frills and i have only replaced standard consumables (bar/chain sprockets etc) and have never found a weak part. I have a friend who still has the earlier 351G, just replaced the carb in it and at 22 years old still runs sweet. If it's a genuine model then a good bit of saw for the money.

Doesn't sound too clever having to add oil to get it to go! If you were aware that he was a bit haphazard with his mixing, why use it through your saw? Not a cheap piece of kit to replace for a can of your own fuel.

I thought that the Husky H25 chains were oregon chains branded for Husqvarna so in essence the same as 21BP. The SP33G however was their own in house made chain alongside C85 and a few others.

I found the SP33G to be quick cutting straight out of the box which is what they were advertising it as and had that "bite" immediately that other chains got after its first run through with the file. It held an edge for a good length of time but i found the cutters very hard to sharpen back compared with other brands and more akin to the stihl cutters in hardness. I never felt that i got it back to its origninal performance without a bit of work although i didnt use the saw that chain was on all the time to really field trial it. Haven't used it in a while as on Oregon or Stihl mainly and this was when it came out originally which is some time ago now. As for the names, true semi chisel isn't really how these newer cutters are set up ( I know you can get it but its more in name than profile to me in these choices) so no real difference to worry about.

You’ve obviously never had to fell and sned out any Grandis then!!??

Both decent saws in their current guise, maintenance is easy with the 261 although I find the filter picks up the fine dust quickly so needs tapping out fairly regularly. Stihl is lighter but I think the AV springs seem softer to me than Husky ones but maybe a personal thing and maybe old school but I’m not fonder of everything being made as light as possible as I find the saw a bit jumpy especially on Stihl’s rapid super chain. The mark II 550 seems well built to me but heavier in the hand. I don’t mind this and think it handles nicely still. It may not seem so sprightly at the bottom end to the mark I but when your asking it to work hard find that it’s very willing. Depending on price it may come down to ergonomics as to what feels better in the hand. I’ve got the xpg version and find it’s a joy to use and hasn’t shown any symptoms of the mark 1.

As others have said I’d take the work you have over any steep ground felling any day. By all means go for a few days and try it if you want but it’s nowt but harder work than it should be (and it can be hard work on flat ground!) and if your moneys ok where you are and less strain on the body and kit you’ll be thankful when your older. For some strange reason us forestry types have an almost perverse want to take on shitty work on shitty ground to prove to themselves that we can make it!

I’ve got the forest jacket and like it, possibly partially due to the fact that I didn’t have to buy it myself!! I was surprised at the weight of it as it has a honeycomb inner to help cool and keep you warm with air circulation so more substantial than I thought it would be. As others have said it’s not fully waterproof but I’ve been out in some pretty lousy weather and my shoulders and chest were dry due to the waterproofing in the hi-viz area and even thought the rest isn’t waterproof it was mainly the sides that let the wet through. I wouldn’t wear it in torrential weather (or have a waterproof over it) but it’s my go to jacket at the moment for general work and it’s pretty robust. Definitely not the cheapest and I’m sure there are other jackets for far less (plenty of reviews of gear on here) and arguably as good or better but it’s what I researched and wanted so ticks the boxes.

As per the comment above, do a search for Reipal on here and you will find plenty of info. TCD’s favourite toy!

I got a cut and climb 2 years ago after reading good reports on here about them and in all honesty I have been disappointed in it with regards to keeping the wet out. From day one it has always left me damp on the shoulders and sides and wearing today from lunchtime till 4.30 it had gone through the jacket a top and my shirt and base layers too. Do forget that this is in the soft southern rain as well unlike you hardened northeners!! In defence of the jacket it's robust and comfortable to me and I think it would take some ripping however I would be looking at alternatives when looking to replace it. I used to keep pretty dry in my old husqvarna monsoon jacket.

I thought Bucklands out at Tibberton used to do it but been a long time since I've been in but the Aspen map shows that they are no longer an agent. I'd of suggested Listers at Cirencester but sure you know of that one and probably take you longer than 45 minutes if you get caught in traffic at the Air Balloon!

Hi All Anybody had or still wearing an arborwear double thick hoodie? Never really wore them not being a "youff" and not certain if I'd like the hood at all times at work but the warmth prior to and after work now the weather is on the turn appeals! Not cheap but I've seen other arborwear kit and it seems decent or is cheap and cheerful just as good? Happy to spend on quality clothing if it works and lasts. Cheers

Meant to attach a change is gonna come from Sam Cooke but you get the lot sorry. Still a great artist whichever song you choose:thumbup1:

The great Sam Cooke https://youtu.be/Aif0to5tyL0 One from David Gray sang live which I've always found thought moving

As others have mentioned its not always as clear cut as first thought so definitely worth checking out. I also received the email and whilst I have no issues with it being sent the tone seemed slightly inappropriate. The fact that the other insurers and the gentlemen in question friends gave him poor or incorrect advice is one thing but you then follow up by saying in highlighted and underlined text "this is absolute RUBBISH. As an Insurer perhaps stating it differently would have sounded more professional? You then follow this up by saying if you use subcontractors and don't have Employers liability you are "probably" breaking the law? I'm always happy for anyone in any industry to help clarify matters as we all hate those "grey" areas open for interpretation but please don't make out that everyone is trying to find a shortcut around not paying for EL and finish off by saying "Wake up and smell the coffee"! Please keep me informed by email and I welcome your input on this forum to give industry advice. Sorry if it comes across as a rant but its struck a nerve, perhaps I need to go into starbucks and breathe in deeply?!

There's Powell's of Hereford or Harris's in Llangarren. Both would help you I'm sure. I'd echo the 560 recommendation or a 357 if you could find a clean second hand one.

Whilst I agree there needs to be sympathy in how the brake is applied in general operation if you go by the instruction manual they are supposed to be checked at full revs before use.

I bought a BlackBerry PlayBook 12 months ago for the same reasons you are looking for a tablet/computer device for and find it excellent. You can pick up the 16gb version now for £99 which is great value for what the device will do. It supports flash player and has docs to go (blackberrys own version of word/excel) installed and you can view pdf's. The screen is 7" so smaller than the standard ipads but was a perfect size for me and fitting it into a cheap case/stand looks no bigger than an a5 diary so great for carrying about. It has front and rear cameras if you need that and since the upgrade to OS2 now supports native email so if you read any reviews don't believe the ones saying you need to have a blackberry phone to work it. I connect to the wifi at home but as I have a blackberry phone it connects seamlessly to it if I need to run on the phones data via bluetooth. There is no sim in the tablet so connecting my phone to it gives me personal data off my phone available and I can text off the tablet but disconnecting the phone means that data is no longer on the tablet which I find safer but an issue for some people. Considering the initial cost of the device was around the £300+ mark its a very good quality device at bargain basement costs. I don't disagree that apple products are very slick and everyone I've used i couldn't fault them but I couldn't justify that cost and like the blackberry underdog!

Depending on your size as there are only certain ones left this company is selling tops and trousers off cheap. Really helpful when I spoke to them and trousers seem good so far. Pity they didn't have tops to fit me! windsor, chainsaw items in nordictyresukltd store on eBay!

Spurs sprockets I find are very durable and hard wearing and as spud said generally are found on the domestic/semi pro and some pro saws. Rims have the benefit of "floating" on the splines of the clutch drum and can move laterally allowing the chain to be kept in line with the sprocket even if pulled off line in the cut where spurs don't allow this so can cause wear to the chain.

A few years ago I felled some Western Red Cedar that the owner was sending for cabin building. WRC has good natural preservative qualities to it so may be another option although don't look for the biggest trees to fell as they go pretty corky in the base as they mature.

Just have another look under the cover at the band and look carefully at where its held in the casing where the small pin locks it in. Ive had numerous bands crack there and although they will lock on the drum and seem tight any throttle will soon have the chain moving.

Hi David, I did mine at Holme lacy college near Hereford around 92/3 ish. Managed to pass part A of the course and then it was supposed to be distance learning which I found hard. I was living on my own and found after working all day trying to get your head around coursework in the evening difficult and there being no one there to push you either! I submitted some coursework on a planting scheme and the tutor didn't agree with much of what i'd done and i lost interest in trying to work it out with him so never completed part B. Really wish i'd work harder at it and its one of those things that still erk me today over not completing.

Hi David, dug out my old college notes and they say topics covered were: Silvicultural practice, forest protection, rural land use, forest inventory, utilization, supervisory management, mechanisation management, forest management, business studies, marketing and forest roads and bulidings. No wonder the mind goes blank after all that! Just been looking through my notes on silvicultural practice and they included structure of the earth, forestry mapping, soil systems, geology and climate. Timber utilization - Preserving and seasoning timber Forest management - Assortments, silvicultural systems/classification, Yield class, Thinning control and intentsity and production forecasts and tariffing. Aerial photography. There is more but I think this will jog the memory now or bring back painful ones! I undertook this as a 5 week block and had to complete an assessment on woodland protection as well. Did you do yours full time or block release as I started (then dropped out at a later date:blushing:)

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