monkeybusiness

I think you need to go and do all that other work you have available and leave this current set-up. It’s not beneficial to you or your employer to continue with such animosity on your part. Sometimes it might be worth reflecting on who is out there finding/providing the work that puts food on your table though - they aren’t necessarily out to make your life hard/totally useless/coming up with apparently ridiculous suggestions for the sake of it. This (and pretty much every other) industry is full of hoops that need jumping through, and it’s not likely that there will be fewer hoops any time soon IMO.

If you want to work for someone you need to play by their rules, it’s pretty simple really. I’d personally argue the tablet charge but otherwise what they are asking seems reasonable to me.

Or is it a pointless exercise on a small digger like this?

I’d imagine a decent autoelectrician would be able to piggyback it, so you get both options.

I’m considering buying a mulcher for a 6 tonne digger - anyone have any recommendations/personal experience?

If it’s already got an electrical control box/spoils then turning it into radio control is pretty easy - speak to approved hydraulics, they will sort you out.

I’ve just bought a kit of parts to do this on a Bandit 250 PTO (but it won’t be hand feedable once converted). The cetop valves are straightforward enough (I sourced them through Flowfit), and I’ve bought a multi-function radio control unit that apparently latches on certain channels off eBay from China for £20 (that actually looks and feels cheap and nasty and I’m not convinced how good it will be but we will see - a more professional heavy duty equivalent is available for around £400 from Approved Hydraulics and I may go down that road yet). My set up requires a 12v supply and will default to stop (ie oil returns straight to tank instead of turning rollers) when de-energised/not plugged in etc. The Bandit stress control is still in situ/not messed around with. There will be a couple of emergency stop switches on the hopper which will basically de-energise everything, and the radio control will latch to feed, momentary/hold reverse, with momentary/hold crush and roller lift. When things calm down I’ll wire/plumb it all in and report back!

I hope whoever burgled you dies slowly and painfully, scummy pondlife.

Pledge

Hopefully your nephew gets charged with handling stolen goods, dirty little thief.

Sorry to hear that Nathan. Scumbags everywhere unfortunately.

Looks amazing - lacks a log deck/better loading set up though surely?

Heavy duty rear springs - speak to Midland Road Springs.

One infeed roller to save cost (these were a budget/entry level model) - they were supplied with stress control so speak to Timberwolf with your serial number and they should be able to price you up the missing parts.

I think the issue lies with the chassis mounting components of the towing bracketry, not just the plate that you can see that the drop plate bolts to. The chassis mounting points will always try to pivot around the rearmost fixings as load is applied to the towball - eg the vertical noseweight will pivot the forward fixings up into the chassis. The design of the mountings will take into account the much greater pivot moments applied by pulling and braking - arguably the greatest forces will be generated under heavy braking. Lowering the towball height increases the pivot vertically into the chassis, but raising it reverses the pivot and will try to twist the mounts down and away from the chassis. That’s how I see it anyway.

Are you helping the demolition of that building with the Liebherr Eddie? Green machine looks ace - I bet it feels a bit weird/scary tramping at that speed with the cab elevated!

No - this is Si https://www.treecarving.co.uk/

I was just going to link that - Si O’Rourke (who I think is on here) knocked it up a couple of weeks ago. Mega!!!

Shorts? It’s February. And not Australia.

I’d mirror Paul’s comments above. That isn’t going to be a great tree long-term - take it down and replace with something else (definitely don’t plan/build your garden around it). I’d personally be wary of anyone who tries to ‘sell you a cure’ - it is a relatively young tree with poor form (aside from the bacterial issues the conjoined stem is a significant long-term defect that will never improve). Spend your money once and take it out - you may even decide to lay out your garden differently if faced with a blank canvas? In terms of a contractor, word of mouth tends to be great (that’s where all of our work comes from). Failing a friend/colleague giving you a recommendation, you won’t go wrong if you follow Paul’s link above to Arboricultural Association Approved Contractors. I would suggest you don’t rush to employ anyone who knocks on your door/posts a flyer through the letterbox etc - there is possibly a reason why they have to actively seek out their work....

Mulching would be much quicker than chipping. Feeding a rear mounted chipper with a roof mount will get pretty tiresome quickly - you need the biggest hole to aim at that you can get away with. If you are set on a chipper I’d be more inclined to look at a Heizohack or equivalent for that type of feeding personally.

The screen has the best phone interface I’ve seen - I only used it for 5 mins with my old iPhone but it is exceptional - I don’t think you need satnav if you’ve got a smartphone (I’m assuming it is as good with Android phones though...)

Bought it in the middle of Jan - it’s the smallest/lightest/lowest power Enterprise model in black, with ply lining. I’d go for more power if I’d bought it for me tbh, but it is fine as is in reality. £11750 plus first reg/tax etc.

I’ve just bought one - really nice little van, as you say lots of space in the cab too! Didn’t go for the off road version as my wife is using it and it won’t really go to sites - £12k brand new with everything you really need on it.

Renault are doing a 4x4 3.5 tonne van/chassis cab/double cab etc - it looks a good truck tbh!