Rupe
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Everything posted by Rupe
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Surely that would depend on how far from the ground the biners are? If the distance from either biner to the crotch is less than the distance from either biner to the ground, you won't be able to remove a biner from the ground without already pulling one through the crotch.
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Agreed, Arbormaster..
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Yep, new and shiny! 800 +vat
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I think so, they are both .404 with pointy fronts not curved, don't know what they are called!
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Good call!! The extra nose weight is what makes it such a pain to carry out unless its really needed. I thought the 36 would be like having a bigger 066 on site but I think I prefer the 066 with a 24 or 30 inch bar than the 880 with a 36. Of course it does the job but its just that I was more impressed with it with the 48 on! Will try it with both on the same wood someday to make a proper comparison.
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I just got a new 880 with 48 inch bar. I've used them many times before but this is the first I've owned one and first time I've used one for a couple of years. Of course the chain and bar is new so its as perfect as can be. I was really impressed with it, running the 48inch bar. I was only cutting 30-36 inch ash, but it had tons of power as you would expect. I'm not likely to need 48inches often so I bought a 36inch bar and chain for it for more frequent use, I figured the bigger bar can hang in the workshop until we need it. My point is this......I was less impressed with it using a 36 than I was using a 48 inch bar!? Is this right?? Is there something about the big bar that makes it better. I realise that the 48 is way more expensive than the 36, is there something in its design, that makes it better or am I imagining things? ANy help apreciated, I'm no expert when it comes to big saw and chain types etc..
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Second favorite would then be the female?? My favorite is my 120 inch cinema screen and HD projector, all remote control with dimming room lights!! Its not that flash really all bought cheaper than a 32inch hd tv!
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XTX fire or scorch or arborgold are all the same just different colours and diferent companies have diferent types, arborgold is (was) unique to honeys for example. XTC has to one of the most hardwearing ropes out there, arbormaster gets my vote but it costs a bit more I think. I use arbormaster for day to day stuff and rigging work on spkes, it lasts forever, nice and fat but doesn't fluff up too much.
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Ah bless our NZ cousins!
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MArlow gecko is one of the worst but then marlow made the T12 (or T16) whatever it was thee worst rope ever. It was given as first prize in a climbing comp but was handed back, next year it was second prize and handed back, its probably tieing down some leylandii on a transit somewhere now.
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Loss of craftmanship? Yes sure, I agree splicing by hand is a great skill. Its just that 10cm of unuseable cord on each slice is no good for most knots.
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Well, low as you can but then as tight as poss. Maybe more like a fit girl in hipsters!!
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And heres a friends rope guide, bought two day earlier and used for the first time. How we laughed! There is still some in my chipper, I see it everytime I change the blades and it makes me smile! We were doing street trees, climber brings all his kit down onto brash pile behind chipper, walks off leaving ropeguide in the pile........... aaaahh!!
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Sorry here it is
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How this? A whole bag of gear gone through a big Vermeer! It was turned on and running before the back was opened and the climbe rhad left everything in there the nigh before. Not mine of course, and not my picture, its from Treebuzz some time ago.
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How long is the bury? I find that long splice leave the legs too long on a VT and don't work that well. Thats why (I'm guessing) Ocean polyester has stitched eyes?
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TH ehip belt needs to be lower than anyother harness. Low as you can then a bit lower. Like a teenagers jeans! Get it tight and just over your hip bones, then leg loops not too tight but not dangling low either.
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I reckon your groundie could pull harder than that! It looked like it was really struggling on no.2 even with the DWT. Maybe no.2 sums it up!
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One of each would be handy, I'd go for two GRCS though! I'm working on a tow hitch mount for mine will post pics soon.
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Nope! I've used a big bollard that didn't rotate, so got the hang of lowering using that type of device. I'd never used a GRCS until I bought one.
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Yes it came in the post the day after those shots were taken. It was posted to the work site and we used it to take down the right hand stem.
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I've had my GRCS for nearly five years now. It is still as much fun to use as when I first got it! JUst fitted new springs so its lifting much better now.
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I remember when we just used to hide behind the stem with fingers and toes tucked in and hope for the best! Hobbs and Grcs make it so much easier the these days, or so we hope!!
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My old boss ran his on red as an agri vehicle. In a different case he was able to buy land, use it for tree surgery machinery storage and build a house on it even though it had an agricultural tie on the use of land. He was able to prove that tree surgery is agriculture and so he got planning consent to build, due to previous test case going in favour of the tree surgeon. Maybe that test case is enough to prove this matter of red diesel also?
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Its been 8 or so years since I drove a mog..
