shillo

Thanks for the reply. I was going to call the dealer today to hear what the latest verdict is but too busy. Not sure i want to tell them your theory as i am going to push for a new saw. Just annoyed that stihl sent it back saying that the saw was fine, suggested a new bar and chain to improve performance!

Yes i have tried resetting the carb as in the instructions, with the bar and chain off also, ran for a minute etc. This just seams to make the saw smoke a lot for a second or two, sounds rough then clears, start cutting, then starts stalling again after nearly every cut. Its the black oily plug that concerns me. Spoke to dealer again and they agreed to take it back again, reluctantly! hopefully get a replacement saw this time. Sorry spud i did not bother taking the filter off. I don't want to give them any reason not to exchange the saw.

Checked the plug today and its black not light tan. So what does that mean then?

Think positive! I was impressed with how fast the old boy moved!

I will check the plug colour tomorrow. As soon as you take your finger off the throttle you hear the revs drop off so low it either stalls immediately or it will pick up a little, but always sound like its just about to stall. Put the saw on the floor and it will just about tick over then stall when you pick it up. always sounds 'bubbly' at high revs at work. Ive got a 441 manual tune saw on my lewis winch, never been a problem. This saw was great for the first few months till it stalled mid cut, a new carb, now its nothing but trouble. You can't actually buy the manual tune 441 anymore can you?

Thanks for the replies guys. Phoned r&t again today and its going back in again, both of us are getting very grumpy, he said he tried it and it was fine, yet I've used it today and it stalls after nearly every cut.

I did wonder that myself so have recently switched to texaco premium fuel with stihl low smoke oil

anybody??

I've got a logosol big mill system for an 880. your welcome to borrow it, I'm in south devon!!

Having a nightmare with my new 441. She was beautiful to start with, until after a month she stalled mid cut and would not start again. Back to the dealer who fitted a new carb. Its been crap ever since. it just keeps stalling at idle, put the saw down to shift a log, as soon as you pick it up, it stalls. When she is running flat out she sounds 'bubbly' like. and she stalled mid cut again today whilst chogging down but managed to get her going again this time. Its been back to the dealer at least 5 times now, the last time they sent it back to stihl, they said it was fine and suggested changing the bar and chain???? the chain is only a quarter worn. Radmore and tuckers don't want to know any more. any body any ideas? I bought a new 550 the same time, thats been back the same number of times at least and is now in again as it seized up??? busiest I've ever been at the moment, 2 saws down, good old faithful 440 and 240 back in action, both about 10 years old and still don't miss a beat!

I had a cracked ram on mine to, i stupidly took it to my local agricultural engineer , who did sort it after a couple of attempts. didn't even think of contacting riko. I don't know what they would have done as i live miles away. often the ram won't rise back up as the thin bit of plate attached to the chain gets stuck on top of one of the allen key bolts, caused by the chain being twisted too much one way or the other. my table is a bit bent now too

Yes i felt like bit of a numpty too when i realised what was happening! At least its an easy fix!

That did cross my mind but i do not think that would be any good with the dyneema

Thanks for the pm eagleye but you said all about the company but not the actual name or link of the company! unless I'm being stupid and didn't see it.

Ahh. How do you know that stuff? and where does it tell you?

It also says in the stihl catalogue that the 241 comes with 3/8p as standard

Ive got a lewis winch with dyneema/standard hook config but i want to be able to use my choker chains rather than dragging strops across the floor. what config do you guys use? any pics?

yes it was 3/8 picco i was thinking about. Same file as 200/201 etc. And i thought that would be quicker? am i wrong? so what sprocket bar chain combo would i need?

is it possible? what do i need? it mentions in the stihl catalogue that the 261 can be converted to 3/8p and lists the parts required. Would the 240 be the same? My .325 bar and chain are well worn and would like to change to 3/8. one less file to try and find in the workshop!

Mine would do that as i had a big bunch of keys on the ignition, the vibration with the weight of the keys would turn the ignition key off and kill the engine and stuff would jam in flywheel and rollers. simply tucking in a key fob stops this happening, sometimes i forget! Probably not related to your problem but your key/ignition might be dodgy connection

I had a local joiner to get stuff planed down. wish i hadn't bothered as their planer was blunt, ripped knots out, left lines in it etc. I wish i had just belt sanded them. Hand planing is good but hard to get plank dead flat.

ive had the same problem with my shindiawa pruner. a new sprocket solved the problem for me, was expensive though for a genuine one. i would look in to oregon alternative first. My oil pump would randomly stop working causing a tight chain, simply stripping, cleaning and reassembling would not sort it, every time i had to loosen chain right off so it was hanging off the bar, run it for a second or two, tighten chain again. and hey presto oil would flow again, random i know but worked for me. I had two of those heads and both did it occasionally.

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking of wood chip to. I might try glyphosate and wood chip.

Ive been asked to treat weeds around these young trees which havent been treated since planting. Weeds are mainly matted old grasses probably only 6" above soil level. kerb granuals or glyphoshate? Its a community woodland so i was trying to do it on the cheap. I think its going to need at least 2 applications to get it under control. any ideas?

i bought the 6" and 3" auger when i got mine, the 6" is not much use really especially if there is a lot of stones. Great though if you have a lot of 1 litre pots to plant and good at mixing up soil/compost/fertilizers pre planting. The 3" is great for planting bulbs. Far better and quicker than those hand things. On both augers the replacement tips wear out really quickly. (about £7 each) The chuck is a 13mm standard. You will need an adapter for using the augers as the bolts are different sizes.