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dig-dug-dan

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Everything posted by dig-dug-dan

  1. I saw that and was tempted. This is the best narrow access chipper out there imho. Its also good for hedgecuttings, and there is a larger screen you can attach which will enable you to quickly reduce waste without bulking it. Its been faultless, apart from a blocked carb recently. Its got a digital hour counter, a really wide inlet for nasty stuff like hawthorn. Had mine since 2006, and would probably upgrade to the 6" diesel version next time
  2. thought i would tag onto this thread, and see if any of you had come across my chipper. This machine will go through a gate, is self propelled, but does not blow the chips all over the place, instead the conveyor places them in a neat pile, or will oad a truck just as easily! Will take a 4" branch too, and has no stress built in. This little beast has 24 reversable knives, which you can sharpen in situ
  3. Bear in mind a gravel board if it rots is a couple of quid to replace, the fetheredge would be a lot more. It also helps take out any imperfections in the ground to give a level surface for the fetheredge to sit on.
  4. Morticed or even vnotch posts are very strong. The trouble with those spurs is that someone ends up them on their land. Incidentally, it looks like the fence is round the wrong way. The owner should be looking at the backing rails, the neighbour sees the "good side". Something to bear in mind, as I have been in the middle of legal disputes about this in the past.
  5. There should be gravel boards, the arriss rails have been attached using repair brackets, should of used morticed posts, and for some reason you have used concrete repair spurs to attach to. It looks good, but not the correct construction
  6. Its nice, but the slats on the floor need to run the other direction. Its given me inspiration of how to build mine, once I have installed my stove, after I have extended the house, once I can afford it
  7. From experience, rot needs moisture to thrive, so if the logs are stored dry, the rot should in theory dry out. It wont spread. Woodworm shows that the timber is old, and I would just split and stack as normal.
  8. ha. that right. it spends more time idle than turning. something to look at from the m25 though!
  9. I dug the rest of the wood out from the log heap, so there is a bit more now to make it worthwhile! painted the ends as requested
  10. images attached What should i seal the ends with? again, open to offers!
  11. I underestimated the size. Its 7" across, and 800 mm long, before it splits into two. How do I post a photo?
  12. I am in hemel. I will get some pictures on wednesday and post them on here Open to offers:001_smile:
  13. I have a large lump of boxwood recently felled. Is there any market for it? Its a good 4 inch if not more.
  14. Found a garden fork in the middle of an ash tree once. That mucked the saw up. Must have been used to stake the tree:001_smile:
  15. That looks a good piece of kit Tried one that someone was making and selling on ebay, until he got lynched by health and safety. Your supposed to use two hands to operate it i gather. Anyway, he was selling them for 4k. they would split logs up to 1m long, even sideways. I could not find a log it would not split! How much was yours if I may ask and what is it's cycle time? As for longing spares, Honda fit fine I discovered
  16. root out is supposed to be good, but you have to cover said stumps with plastic! dig them out with a mini digger!
  17. I agree, but the environment agency bods who stopped me had other ideas! I argued that if i brought the woodchip from somebody, then it was a product not waste, again, not true apparantly. you cannot win with these people:thumbdown:
  18. no not at all. they are not smooth, quite rough in fact! Solway Recycling | Agricultural Waste Recycled | Plastic Products look for stokboard
  19. jumping on this thread late, but to touch on some points raised. I get rid of mine by placing an ad on freecycle. When i have a load of chips, a willing customer will always have it. Someone mentioned about having a field to store woodchips and burn. Both is illegal, and the environment agency will shut you down. Logs and woodship is waste in their eyes, however you deal with it. (i have rowed with them on many occasions!) there is also an urban myth that conifer chips are poisonous for the garden. from experience, it ios the best stuff to mulch with by far!
  20. I had to re floor two of my trailers and i brought some sheets of plastic from solway recycling. The beauty is that it never rots, easy to cut and drill, and is very strong. they do 12mm thick sheets. I actually brought 10 sheets of 6mm for laying out on gardens so i can run machinery back and forth to save the grass. I ran a 10 ton steel tracked excavator over them, not a mark on them!
  21. saw it a saltex. Not working, but its got a 20hp PETROL engine on "to keep it below 750kg for towing!" If it had a diesel engine on, i might think about it.
  22. Hi mate. I have relatives on a farm in bardfield that would be interested. I take it its free?
  23. i might be interested. depends on how much . have i got to load the woodchip as well?
  24. thanks everyone so much for their replies, and especially to mattmoss. here is an email i recieved from gity and guilds (the nptc people) which i have forwarded on to the guy at the council: Good morning Daniel, Thank you for your email enquiry. I can confirm that NPTC Certificates of Competence in Chainsaw have no expiry date and are valid for life, though we do recommend refresher training. If our qualifications expired they could clearly show an expiry date on them. Unit CS10 is the maintenance of the chainsaw and CS16 is crosscutting. If I were to equate the units you hold to ‘current’ units it would equate to CS30.1 and CS30.2, please note that scheme criteria changes over the years and will not be exactly the same. The chainsaw units are to be updated shortly and we will be doing away with the prefix ‘CS’ codes. I would recommend to your local council to concentrate on the unit description rather than worry about the unit number. Particularly as the units have changed over the years; for example CS32 medium tree fell, used to have an upper limit of 760mm. CS32 now has no upper limit and CS33 (large tree fell over 760mm) is no longer offered. I mention this only to highlight that to keep up to date with current industry standards and best practice our qualifications are updated every couple of years which may result in changes to qualification unit numbers. I fear that if older (and still valid) units are not being recognised many experience chainsaw users are being refused work. I hope my response is of help to you but if I can be of any further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me. The annoying thing about all this is, about a year ago i rang the guy at the council to report some rogue tree cutters, cutting a tree in council woodland for a householder, who dumped all the logs in a heap. He never came out to look, and later said i could take the logs. no questions were asked. Now i want to do the same, remove some ash ( a sizeable bit for firewood), free of charge to the council, and he wants all this info. He has even said my insurance is not enough, as i need £5 million. So i upped it today (for £19) and emailed him a new cert. If he still drags his feet, i'm not sure what to do next, but i think i can lift the log out in one with my avant. on another note, how do you report someone for not having a chanisaw licence? the hse website is useless!
  25. thats what i thought, although no one has ever said refresher trainings is required, nor does is say anything about it on my certificate!

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