andrew
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Everything posted by andrew
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Though a less generous employer may take off an hour for breaks, and pay a 7 hour day / 35 hour week. For parity with an employee on a good contract, a freelancer should be allowing extra in lieu of holiday pay, sick pay, employers NI, doing their own admin / tax etc. plus an allowance for PPE and maybe travel. Probably 30-50+ % on the equivalent employed rate. Not sure how many of us could ask that and get much work? In theory maybe. How many younger workers can afford to turn down £80 a day (or whatever they might be offered) if they need to pay bills and get experience?
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Sarah, It might be wise to wait until the TO has had chance to visit and if appropriate set wheels in motion before posting a pic in a public place.
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- NPTCs to CS41 - 15+ years experience - Driving license including towing - EFAW+F - PPE, harness, saws, transport Safe, tidy and reliable climber, willing to tackle most trees, and doing high quality work. Fine for most domestic jobs, but a little on the "mature" side, so not looking for "production" type climbing or doing big trees every day without sharing with another climber. Also happy do do ground work, and conservation type jobs - hedgelaying, coppicing etc. I am Bath based, at present available Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday most weeks following retirement of someone I have been working with for years. Ideally looking for 2 days a week regular work with a laid back local company, but fine to do odd days in the interim. Please PM for more details and availability . Thanks, Andrew
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I have seen a shower done with old school corrugated / wrinkly galvanised roof sheets. Seemed to work quite well.
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Ted Green and Lynne Boddy talk a load of rot – Part 2
andrew replied to JackArbAssociation's topic in Training & education
Jack, Saw this when it was first posted, but managed to miss part one. Is it available anywhere to "catch up" ? Thanks -
504 kg (ex grab)
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Chris Think Lyon used to do this, not sure it if would be specific enough to arb, can't see anything on the website at present, but might be worth a call or email. I've no personal experience of them, but pretty established player in work at height, irata etc. Training LYON.CO.UK Lyon Equipment provide equipment and expertise for people to venture further A
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Find a local farmer or agricultural contractor with a flail .... not the prettiest finish, but the least prickly
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woodwalker / airstream side by side height comparison...
andrew replied to wildpath's topic in General chat
Plenty of people, including non climbers, wear them all the time. Just be aware the airstreams are a slightly stiffer boot. Not noticed any changes, but mine are probably ~ 3 years old, so could be more recent -
woodwalker / airstream side by side height comparison...
andrew replied to wildpath's topic in General chat
To answer the question - the woodwalker is a wee bit higher - but less than an inch.... My 2p worth: You've done well to get 6 years of use if you lay hedges and loiter in ditches! Have and like both, the Waldlaufer is my everyday boot and a little more flexible, i find the airstreams a tiny bit clumpy especially if there is lots of walking or dragging on hard surfaces, but they are more comfortable and supportive if i know i'll be spending a lot of the day on spikes. A
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But... the OP Kyle was looking almost exactly a year ago..... tho maybe he fancies another change?
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Thanks, was about to say that I'd looked at L&S and that both were out of stock, along with most other stihl parts, but thought I'd double check, and they are back again, so have ordered. Still interested in any advice on fitting the annular buffer
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Just wanting to get a little advice as I need to replace the buffers on a Stihl 441 If I've got the parts diagrams right, there are two - (1) a "stop buffer" under the sprocket cover by the tail of the brake band, and (2) an "annular buffer" tucked in just below the oil cap So: The first is an easy pop in like a grommet, but how much disassembly of the handles etc. is needed to fit the annular buffer - is it possible to loosen the adjacent spring and sqidge it in? Or does it mean taking half the saw apart? And: Looks like the originial parts might be tricky to come by at the moment, does anyone have experience of the copy ones available on ebay, or should I wait / trawl around for the real ones? Thanks!! A
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Was looking to get a new air filter for my 550 When I look at the diagram, [ see https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/husqvarna-550xp-xpg-chainsaw-spare-parts/carburetor-air-filter-assembly-for-husqvarna-550xp-xpg-chainsaw.html ] there are four different options - does anyone know the difference?? Guessing the current one is 522 67 54 05? Is yellow, has 522 67 54 in tiny print in the corner, and a 5 in the middle under the clip. Thanks!
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Another one for the collective wisdom. At the base of a dying Cryptomeria, looks quite innocuous, but wondering what it is, and if it could be a (partial) culprit, an opportunist, or a coincidence? Thanks Andrew
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Wanted some for making a foot loop, only place I found was Dicks climbing in Bristol - they also do loads of IRATA type kit www.dicksclimbing.com/products/beal-american-tube-tape-26mm-per-metre
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If I remember right (I'm not taking mine apart to look, sorry!!) then you have it in the right place. All these husky chain brakes need to be assembled with the brake on, then you need to take it "off" before fitting it on the saw, which would straighten out the joint. The way I've done it, and I think the way in the service manual is to remove the handle from the saw (watch out for little sprung rocker thingy when you put it back) and use this as the tool to reset it. A bit of a pain, and we had one person holding the cover down (or use a vice or clamp?) and another on the handle, but does work. A
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I know this is an old thread, but still the same question..... Does anyone run, or know of providers of EFAW+F (Industry specific basic first aid) courses in the Bath / Bristol area? The nearest I currently know of are Blake training near Bridgwater, and the Treekit one earlier in this thread in Dorset Would be for just one or two people, so getting a course put on specially is probably not an option. Thanks
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You could also try the Tetbury branch of TH White, pretty close and now Greenmech dealers with some machines available to hire.
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You could try Vince Cainey http://www.atwortharboriculture.co.uk/Services.htm Andrew
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Dan The serial number is all the marking you should need, unless you start cutting up ropes or making your own prussic cords. Sorbus probably gave you a certificate of conformity or if not the invoice should double as one, KEEP this - it will do instead of a LOLER test for the first 6 months (or even a year if you only climb occasionally). Also it will allow you to prove how long you have had the kit as some items have a fixed service life. You are also supposed to keep some records of when you use kit, but will learn that when you do a climbing course. Have fun, but don't try to run before you can walk..... Andrew
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Very belated thanks to Barrie on this! 346 brake band went recently, so bought new side cover to get up and running quickly (or not, took ages to come) then new band to put in old one for spare / next time. Was indeed a pain to do - not recommended for 10 min job on site at lunchtime as with a stihl! A
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I'm also looking for a quality toe cap boot - find the made down to a price toecaps don't last and not great on comfort. Would ideally like something like the Meindl Bergschug - meindl-bergshoe-gtx but they cost more than Meindl chainsaw boots (Waldlaufer etc.) which seems daft! Has anyone tried engelbert-strauss boots - look hopeful ? S3 Safety Shoes from engelbert strauss Thanks A
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As per previous reply, watch out for parts availabilty - bent the fence on my Erbauer / screwfix mitre saw ( cutting down split firewood billet, few weeks out of guarantee! ) and could not get a new one. Think Axminster may be better at keeping parts for budget machines.
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What additions would you like to see on Arbtalk
andrew replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
In arbtrader can you force people to provide an approx location for an item - maybe by having an extra field in the post form that can't be left blank - then include this in the header or keywords / tags for the advert. Would just be handy to know if an item is 20 or 200 miles away. Otherwise, general thumbs up and thanks for your efforts.
