Alycidon

Bit late now but that is a very old 100, but a good shotblast should get it back into a form where it can be rebuilt, but it has been abused, check the steel sides and rear for warping or cracks before spending time and money on it. Suspect its been overfired and been involved in a chimey fire as a result. I am an Esse stove dealer and have supplied that stove since 2008 with no issues at all. From what I can see it needs a new grate, firebrick set, baffle plate and door glass and rope kit. Screws holding the bottom of the glass in place are likely to need drilling out and re tapping. A

They cristalize any tar causing it to drop off the inside of the chimney when swept, they are NOT an alternative to sweeping the chimney, this does still need to be done. A

In my years in the motor trade GME Springs in Coventry would be my go to supplier for uprated springs. A

I am now needing to renew my driving licence as my 70th birthday is coming up. Having spent a few hours looking at the paperwork and different govt sites I came to the deduction that to pull IFW 3.5T trailers with my old Defender TD5 I needed groups B+E which I have and can be renewed with no issues. Somewhere else I read that allowed a max train weight of just over 8 tonnes, I am about 5.9 max. ( 2.4 + 3.5) . However if I wished to retain my grandfathers rights to drive 7.5 tonners then an HGV medical would be required. Not having driven a 7.5 for maybe 20 years loosing that and minibuses is of no consequence. I am now to old to drive Air Cadet mini buses anyway under their regs which was something I did occasionally. I was going to ask here is that is correct, but the post at the top of this section answers this in great detail. Thank you for the input guys, A

That install neat as it is would not be allowed under UK building regs. A

Best bet is to talk to the manufacturers of the stove you have in mind. Some models in the better brands at the higher end of the price scale have convector panels integrated into them to reduce MCC to the sides and rear, Morso S11-42 , Charnwood Skye and ARC models for example. Some installers are happy to fit cement board to the walls of the room instead. Dont forget the plasterboard is rated as combustible. A

My 560 did two engines in very short time. Huskys attitude at the time has sent a lifelong user to Sthil. A

Good towing truck given Grabbers or similar rubber. I ran an 03 Plate TD5 ES to 262,000 miles OK. A

If that were the case then how would the ash be removed. I used to be Franco Belge stove dealer many years ago, dont recall what you describe but I could be wrong. A

There is now an app where you can put a pic in and it finds the nearest match to it. My kids have used it, The area below the grate makes me think its a gas stove not wood burning, no woodburner will have electrics within the firebox. No mains gas, in that case it could be LPG, the wheel on the LH edge with numbers on, thats for gas supply. If the surround around the edges of the opening is wood then please remove before lighting the stove, otherwise the stove will set it alight, Have it checked by a Gassafe engineer and capped off away from the opening, then open the fireplace up and put a new freestanding wood burner in. A

Look at the Henley stoves web site, says designed in Ireland, a 100% Irish owned company but nothing about where its made or assembled, no pictures of robot welders, laser cutters etc. You will note that a question into Google asking where Henley stove are built is not met with a direct answer. I think the final assembly is probably done in Ireland with the steelwork coming from China or eastern Europe, most likely the former. Several UK stove companies have a similar business model. If you want a 100% British build then Charnwood, Arada or Esse, there may be others but those I have been to, been inside their works and seen steel going in one end and stoves coming out of the other. In my view Henley are not the best but they are not the worst either. Your cost for the job would depend on what needs doing building work wise and of course the quality of the flue liner including what grade of stainless steel. It sounds cheap and cheerful. A good quality 5kw stove such as a Charnwood C5 or an Arada Holborn or Esse 105 will be around £1500, flue parts for 10m of 316 grade flue liner and the other parts around £700, all inc VAT. plus installation and safety sign off. A Hazelwood widescreen of the web is around 1k, if you are able I would suggest that you pay a bit more and have a better one like the above but if the budget does not stretch that far or you are only planning to be in the house a couple of years then look at the Arada Solution 5 widescreen, similar price point but built in Axminster Devon from scratch The post above is correct, you can DIY the install but getting a building inspector in to sign the installation off has no fixed fee. Two towns within 10 miles of me, one charges double what the other does. NO SIGN OFF = NO BUILDING INSURANCE IN THE EVENT OF A CLAIM. Another point, whoever sells it to you is legally responsible for any warranty aspects of the stove, are they a Henley approved dealer, if not your warranty period may be reduced. This is why I alwaya advise using your local dealer for any given product as they are on hand if any issues arise. A

No. The installation of a stove is legally required to be certified as safe to use under the building regs. whoever signs it off is personally legally liable, if it leaks and as a result someone is killed via carbon monoxide poisoning he or she is facing a manslaughter charge which carriers a 10 year to life imprisonment term. A 20 year old flue liner is past its best, no installer will risk re using it and putting his name to a certification. And no certification then if you have a fire its likely that your insurer will invalidate your policy. A

Hi, I am a Morso Uk dealer, please post a pic of the stove with the doors closed and another with the doors open, is the ash lip just below the doors part of the bottom of the firebox or is it bolted on. Does it have an air supply lever under the ash lip, if so does it have a Bakerlight knob on the end or a thread where there was such a knob. 1809 is a casting number, there is an 1809 model, and a 2110 and 2130 and 2140. There are two baffle plates that cover the range including 1809. I have a 2110 at home, there is 1809 on some of the parts. If the plates are in stock in Denmark order lead time is about 2 weeks usually, carriage around £35 plus VAT. Morso Uk do not hold any parts in the UK these days but there are a couple of parts specialists such as mentioned above that do. If you need to call me my office number is 01327 843400, not Tues, Weds pm on Sunday. A

Normally tops on that design of stove just sit on the top, yours looks like an integral part. Talk to the stove manufacturer/uk importer ( Stovax) and check if this is part of the smokebox flue system, personally I doubt it, Varde stoves have a 5 year casing warranty, how old is it ?. Cracks in cast iron are caused mainly by air bubbles within the castings, over time the air heats up/cools down and eventually the part cracks. This is where buying a high quality stove comes to the fore. Many of the cast iron castings in products lower down the price scale are cast in the USSR then sent for finishing by the stove assembler. This happens in the automotive industry as well with brake drums, have seen a trailer drum come apart for exactly that reason after a few weeks use. Cast in Russia, finished in France, sold as a French product. Obs if its a steel top and some are then ignore the above but I have never seen one crack like yours in steel or cast. Rust on the underside caused perhaps by rain running down the flue could be part of the issue. A

What make and model of stove is this?, was it installed and certified by a Hetas or Oftec reg enginneer or perhaps a self install with building inspector sign off. It sounds like the flue system is underperforming, why that is I would need a lot more info, kindling should always light easily assuming its not damp. 17% is not to bad, yes its below the new Woodsure 20% guidelines but most stove manufacturer's used to want no more than 16% for hardwood pre woodsure. Out surveying now, hope to get back here tomorrow. A

Sorry to take so long to respond, to busy selling stoves to get here. Have read most of the thread, I sell probably 25 tonnes a year of imported kiln dried Oak, have done for some years. Never had a complaint and its always the wood I sell out of first. So I would be fairly sure that your logs are either to large or wet in the middle due to not having been in a kiln for long enough. There was another comment about the stove not wanting to go, this can be caused by a number of reasons mainly flue related or driver error or fuel issues. Assuming you are fluing into a brick or stone chimney and you have a wind outside then you should be getting enough pull if there is a stainless steel liner in the chimney. Have you tried top down lighting, firelighters on top of the kindling, that will get some heat into the chimney to start with.

If its dry paper then agreed, but often that paper is damp and it smokes like billyO. Hence I always recommend firelighters, ideally the wood/wax ones. Remember that many fire time stove owners have no experiance at all of a live fire, firelighters give them immediate success.

Both work, top down is helpful if you have a steel twin wall flue system as these can suffer from cold air plugging. In a brick chimney I use bottom up, so firelighter on top of the bottom layer of kindling but with the bulk of the kindling stacked over the top of it. A

Agreed, primary air if available is used to get the stove up to optimum operating temperature, then closed. A

What your link says is close the primary air supply once the cooker is getting up to temperature, after that air is then added above the fire via the secondary air supply control above the door. A

This is the latest IH user instructions, the unit is a dedicated wood burner. https://www.esse.com/wp-content/themes/esse/downloads/guides-and-manuals/woodburning-stoves/Ironheart-EcoDesign-Manual.pdf The air control above the door which on a multifuel stove would be known as the secondary air control is what is used to control the fire once up and running. It also advises leaving the door open a shade when lighting. The older multifuel model does have a primary air control below the door, I would only use that on lighting and perhaps if I have a lump of wood in the firebox that is a bit damp and needs a bit of extra encouragement to burn. Wood does not usually need an air supply from below.

Leaving the door open an inch is the usual way of starting any stove. If its smoking back then there is not enough pull from the flue. Ironhearts and Eco design stoves generally want 12PA as a minimum. A

The primary air supply lever below the firebox door. Wood burning stoves do not need an air supply under the fire. A

The new woodburner version now only has two levers, delivered one today. A

I am an Esse dealer, the mods you suggest would invalidate any stove casing warranty should an issue occur. The holes in the back are permanently open and designed to ensure that there is always enough oxygen in the stove to combust the creosote laden gases given off by your logs. Blocking them will achieve what you want but crerosote that has not been burnt in the firebox due to the temperatures being to low then condenses in the chimney and is one of the two main causes of chimney fires, the other is burning wet wood. You have a chimney fire following the mods you propose and are at risk of your insurance loss adjuster invalidating your insurance claim. A